jean-louis llech

My dear Rob,<br>

I placed the 150mm SF lens user manual on a web site where you can download it :<br>

<a href="http://dl.free.fr/bdU4xG8I9/RB67_150mm_Soft_Focus.pdf">Click and download "150mm Soft Focus" file @

dl.free.fr </a><br>

Have a nice day.<br>

J.L.<br>

For not too close portraits, a twin lens reflex would be adequate too. Rolleiflex 2.8 F or Mamiya 330C. Tha Mamiya has interchangeable lenses. On both, the parallax correction is well controlled.

And do you know what becomes the initial aperture of f/4 or more with two stacked converters ?<br>

Undoubtedly not for hand-held use. ;>))

Thanks for the link. But all these auctions are outrageously expensive.<br>

You are right to write : <i>"hard to see any other way"</i>. But only to see, not to buy. ;>))

Which Zeiss lenses ? For Hasselblad, there are some tenths of files with the informations about Zeiss lenses. <br>

Most of them are given for a negative size of 56 x 56mm or 56.5 x 56.5 mm. <br>

If you need a larger image circle, Hassleblad use Rodenstock Apo-Grandagon lenses for his Arcbody, because no Zeiss lenses for Hasselblad have a large enough image circle.<br>

Otherwise, you can find all lenses informations on the Zeiss website : http://www.zeiss.de/en. I have about 40 pdf files for CF or C lenses, 15 for CFi and CFE... They never give an image circle, as all lenses are used on 6x6 cameras without movements.<br>

Stephen, I have in pdf format the FX manual. Send me your mail address at jeanlouis.llech [AT] wanadoo.fr

All these "do-it-yourself" improvements have drawbacks. One of them is that people forget the simple basics of photography and optics : in order to have lenses focused to infinity, there is a lens-to-film-plane distance (flange focal distance) which must be always the same for a given camera and its lenses. That's why a 500mm lens is rather long and a 28mm rather short.<br>

On large format cameras, a 500mm tele lens is physically very small, about 1/5th of its real focal length. (It can have the same physical length that a wide angle lens). But when mounting the lens, the bellows extension sets the correct flange focal distance, and the lens is placed at about 500mm from the film plane.<br>

On MF and 24x36 cameras, as the housing is made of metal it cannot be shortened. And on all lenses the physical length is nearly the same that the focal length.<br>

For close focus photography, the distance between the film and the object must be lengthened : that's why we use macro rings or extension bellows.<br>

But when lenses are focused to infinity, all devices put between the lens and the camera body lengthen the focal distance of the lens. And consequently the lens cannot anymore be focused to infinity.<p>

 

Of course, only a LF lens will have an image circle large enough to cover all tilts and shifts. About the shutter, if you <i>"consider buying a LF lens"</i> it might be more simple to use the leaf shutter built in the lens and disengage the camera focal plane shutter if you can.<br>

And forget all electrical/electronical transmissions between the lens and the camera.<p>

 

Or buy an inexpensive used large format camera with a 120/220 rollfilm holder. Probably less expensive, and it will work !<br>

Sorry... a "look"

Markus,<br>

Have a llok at the Dutch market. Theo De Wit has one to sell on his Rollei accessories web page : <a href="http://www.collectcamera.com/colcam/catalogus/listgen.php?ocat_ID=79">CollectCamera</a><br>

You don't buy one more camera. You just replace a camera with another... on the shelter. (The former one could be placed in another place)

I fear that a fisheye will remain a fisheye, whatever the format. With too much barrel distorsions.

You spare $14. and also free shipping. ;>))<br>

IMO it's a shame to sell such old manuals, which can be obtained for free. Only a personal opinion, of course. Also no commission and no rewards. But I think that it will also be helpful.<br>

Kind regards.<br>

Glen,<br>

I have the manual for the GW 670 III. I put the file on a website, and you can download it under <a href="http://dl.free.fr/h1NQ6CyFP/FujiGW-GSW690-GW670UsersManual.pdf">this link.</a><br>

My dear Raoul,<br>

focal or leaf shutter has IMO no influence on the use of a digital back.<br>

But, technically speaking, the SL66-SE, like any other camera, needs an adapter to mount a digital back.<br>

All camera backs are free from all four sides, but not the SL66 cameras, which have the focusing rail housing on the left side of the body. It protects the film holder, but makes also this camera a very special one. Thus an adapter would be specific for the SL66 cameras.<br>

The focal length is also specific to each camera, I mean the distance between the lens fulcrum and the film surface. Thus, designing an adapter would involve to calculate this distance and create a special adapter only for the SL66.<br>

I am a SL66-SE user, but I am sure that I would not buy a digital back for my beloved FILM cameras, because it would be probably too expensive. Have a look to the cost of a single adapter and you will clearly understand why most people could not buy such devices.<br>

I would like to send you the RZ 140mm lens manual, but I can't obtain your mailing address. I will try to send the file with my answer.

If I can't, please write your mail address here under my answer, in two parts separated by something else that an @, to avoid the address to be picked up.

Dan, I agree with you on some points : all brand cases, shining aluminium cases - most of all with "Mamiya" or another brand name written in large letters on the top - mean, as you say, "steal me !"<br>

But most of all, these cases are horribly heavy, even empty. As the weight of a medium format is already more important than a 24x36 gear, it is not necessary to add some extra weight.<br>

Many photo backpacks or shoulder bags protect the camera and lenses, and are much lighter.<br>

Some years ago, I bought a large Pelican case for a 4x5" rangefinder camera, 6 lenses and all accessories. Of course, the camera is very well protected in such a case. But, when filled with the whole gear, it is so heavy that I don't use it.<br>

Markus,<br>

the metal ever-ready case fits all TLR Rolleiflexes. Overall dimensions of Rollei cameras are still the same. The bottom of the TLR Rolleiflex is fixed directly on a quick release plate in the metal case.<br>

The last produced Rolleiflex 2.8 FX can be easily placed in a 30 years old metal case.<br>

The system is very well designed : the camera can be used without removing the metal case : just open the case : the case-to-camera attachment device has a hinge. Pivot the camera and place it on top of the case.<br><div></div>

Did you consider the 210mm lens for the Mamiya 7-II ?

Edward, better not to give advices if they are wrong. <br>

Neither RRS nor Markins have a convenient QR plate for the SL66.<br>

And NO lip ! With the lensboard downwards tilt, the lip will be an obstacle to the lens tilt. What a stupid idea...<br>

I use a SL66 and the QR plate. The only one which could be mounted was the Arca 802 222 for Rollei, no more in production.<br>

But now the 802 221 has exactly the same design and dimensions. I have both 222 and 221, and I can't see any difference. And nothing else can be used on a SL66.<br>

I use an Arca Swiss QR plate for Hasselblad. It allows the back tilt without any problem. The reference is 802 221 (55mm x 60mm - 1x1/4" & 1x3/8")

Tom, if we admit that the 645E behaves like my former 645 1000S, when the number of exposures have been reached (15 for 120 film), the shutter release button locks. Then, you have to press the shutter release one more time, and then turn the film advance crank until the leader paper is completely wound onto the take-up spool. If it doesn't you should have your camera CLA'd.

Blake,<br>

No hurry. The international rollei club site is not dead. Somebody has ressurected it since 2006. <a href="http://www.rolleiclub.com/">Rollei Club</a><br>

Glad to learn that another site about our beloved cameras is born. Congratulations and long life.<br>

Image circle = 77.78 mm. But Jenny's solution (Arcbody and 35mm Rodenstock) is undoubtedly better. Keep your FLE, if you can, and buy a system really designed for shifts and/or tilts.<br>

IMO, you have to calculate the shifting abilities on the basis of the "negative" or sensor size, not the lens.<br>

Your sensor is not a full format I guess ? Keep the 6x6 format in mind, and calculate the difference with the digital sensor dimensions. And you will know exactly the shift abilities of your lens. <br>

Of course, the PC Mutar allows tilts, some 16mm movements up and down. but you will lose one full stop.<br>

Ilia, don't forget that between the 30mm and the 50mm there is an amazing 40mm. It's maybe the answer to your question.

I have a prism for my 2.8 80mm Rolleiflex. But I seldom use it.<br>

First, for the weight. When putting it on the camera, it becomes so heavy and unbalanced that I have many difficulties to use it.<br>

Second, IMO, the TLR philosophy is to look at the world through a folding viewing hood. The camera has to be placed on the waist, not close to the eye.<br>

The composition and framing with a TLR can be only conceived with this simple viewfinder. Of course, I don't criticize people who use a prism. But then, the Rolleiflex is used as any other camera, not as a Rolleiflex.<br>

Note that a photography taken with a Rolleiflex TLR can be easily recognized, not only by the square format, but also by the position of the lens when the shutter was released. Waist level is waist level, and eye level is eye level. This can't be changed.<br>