john_galuszka

If you already have the view camera AND are using cut film, then the people suggesting a modified dark slide have the cheap answer. I'll try to attach photos demonstrating using a square knock-out punch (in this case, a 6X9 to 3X9, but the idea is the same for 4x5 to 2X5 [6X12.]

 

John

 

www.XtremeDigitalPhotography.com<div></div>

Also consider:

 

''Best'' might depend on what you use for a camera. If digital, then use a manual setting rather than an auto exposure, otherwise you will spend a lot of time adjusting color, etc. between shots taken just moments apart.

 

I used to ''glue'' panoramas together with Photoshop, but it was a lot of work... and a LOT of time.

 

If you want high-quality panoramas shoot with one shot. I use film (3X9, 6X12, 6X18 and 6X24 cm) and scan the negatives. I can get to the equivalent of 200 megapixels, but mostly I shoot a 6X12 with a 50mm lens (93 degrees of view)which is about 90 megapixels.

 

John

 

www.XtremeDigitalPhotography.com

FYI

 

The old Polaroid MP-4 cameras were built specifically for large format close-up (usually scientific or medical) work. They took Polaroid backs, but also 4X5s and there were even 8X10 setups available. Check eBay; search MP-4 in the camera section.

 

John

 

www.XtremeDigitalPhotography.com

UPDATE:

 

Yes, Mr. Burke is correct, there is a big difference between "dots-per-inch" and "pixels-per-inch", and I should have made clear that I was referring to pixels. Source of confusion: Photohop's scan setting refers to "DPI," but if you scan a square inch at (Photoshop) 600 DPI, you will get a file which is 600 pixels wide. However, if you print that image, the number of dots-per-inch you get will likely be much higher, depending on the capacity or your printer and what resolution you set it to.

 

Therefore, there are two factors you have to take into consideration: the pixels-per-inch of your file, and the dots-per-inch of your printer.

 

I conducted an experiment with Lighthouselitho.com this week. We printed a 300-pixels-per-inch file of a 36" wide photo on two printers: an Epson R2200 which has a DPI resolution of 5760X1440

and a HP 3500CP with a resolution of 600X600 DPI.

 

The Epson print had better color and was sharper when you looked at it from a distance of a foot and a half. (The differences were less noticeable when viewed from an across-the-room distance of 12 feet.)

 

But, same file, different results!

 

So, not only will you have to consider the resolution of your particular file, the quality of the printer used will also have to be a factor to think about.

 

For more on this issue (with illustrations) see the "What you don't see on the Internet" article at www.XtremeDigitalPhotography.com

[Direct link: http://home.uid.onemain.com/~jg1001986/extreme/nosee.htm ]

I definitely recommend the 300 DPI standard. I have done prints to 36" wide at 300DPI and at 200DPI and you can easily see the difference.

 

Also, use TIF files, not JPG files--you will get better color accuracy. However, some processors can't handle the latge TIF files, so ask before sending something in.

 

Finding a local printer is better than using on-line or a chain store--being able to talk with the guy/gal who is actually doing the printing is very valuable. For example, for some prints, my guy suggested changing from RGB to CYMK for a slight change which improved the prints.

 

My local printing shop is Lighthouse Litho in Cambria, CA (www.lighthouselitho.com) He just added a machine which can print to 54" wide at 600DPI--so new he is still testing it! I have a 200 megapixel camera which will put his printer to the test at its full capacity, so we will be working on checking everything out in the near future.

 

Send me an e-mail note if you want to be updated on our progress.

 

 

 

John

Mamiya to 6X17 (actually 6X18) with a 90mm Super-Angulon ==>

 

See:

www.XtremeDigitalPhotography.com

 

Been there,

Done that,

 

John

I agree with the replies recommending roll film, as opposed to masking a 4X5 to two 2X5s, etc. When that once-in-a-lifetime shot presents itself, you will curse the cumbersome masks and sheet film holders because you will have only seconds to shoot.

 

I shoot a Mamiya Press modified to 6X12 with a 50mm lens. As support for my opinion, see the ''Salmon Creek Falls'' photo at my site. This photo is sharp printed at 24"X36!"

 

John

 

www/XtremeDigitalPhotography.com

I have a Beseler 18" lens from a Vu-Lite II opaque projector. Has anyone used

one of these with a view camera, perhaps with a Packard shutter? If so, what

is the circle of coverage? Is there an easy way to use Waterhouse-type stops?

 

At the moment the projector is intact, and I don't want to break it apart

without a good reason. ((It came out of the shop of C. Jere, a well-known

southern California artist.))

 

John

I used to stitch photos together for panoramas, but I spent way too much time with Photoshop ... even shots taken together only a few minutes apart and the same setting needed a lot of fixing. So I built a 6X12, then a 6X18, then a 6X24. Yes, it was expensive and a lot of work, but I saved a HUGE amount of time with photoshop.

 

My current favorite is a Mamiya Press expanded to 106mm wide and a 50mm Mamiya Press lens. This takes specatcular wide photos with a minimum of "photoshopping."

 

You can see a sample at my site: www.XtremeDigitalPhotography.com. See the Salmon Creek, Big Sur photo.

 

If you want 6X12 photos, don't stitch; use a 6X12 camera. Search eBay as 6X12 in the camera section to see what is available.

8X10 is overkill, plus too awkward and expensive, for what you want. You need access to a 6X17 camera and a good scanner. For a student, 120 film is much less expensive than 8X10, plus you only have to mail it out to a processor, rather than have a darkroom, etc., then scan the negative at 3200DPI or higher.

 

I build panorama cameras, and I sell how-to manuals, but you should be able to find someone in your area who has the hardware to assist you. My 6X17 (actually 6X18) camera gives me the equivalent to 144 megapixels, and I have a 6X24 that goes to 200 megapixels.

 

Suggestion: If you get a great negative, go for full color with the 3X8 print -- it will amaze everyone !!!

 

References you might find useful:

www.photosfast.com (for processing 120 film)

www.mycustomprints.com (for large prints)

www.XtremeDigitalPhotography.com (my camera site)

 

If I can be of further assistance, send me an e-mail. I want to encourage panorama photographers.

 

John Galuszka

IF you have more money than time

THEN get one of the 6X12 or 6X17 backs suggested by others here.

 

IF you have less money than time

THEN build your own.

 

I built several panorama cameras, up to 6X24. The easiest way to get

panorama format is to convert a Mamiya Press from "6X9" to "6X12."

The original frame width was 82mm; I expanded that to 106mm which is

the widest you can go with Press lenses and still have the corners properly exposed. That camera with the Press 50mm lens gives me a very wide 93 degree angle of view and no "fisheye" distortion!

 

I have How-to manuals available for my projects. For more information, visit my photo site:

www.XtremeDigitalPhotography.com, or search eBay

under panorama in the camera section. I also have free information posted at a MSN group called ModifiedMamiyaPressCameras.

 

Note that if you get a 6X17 back, you may need a center ND filter (expensive!) to get even illumination across the negative. This will depend on the lens you use.

Before spending money on new equipment, try different settings on your scanner. Just because you are scanning Tri-X and have a scanner setting for that doesn't mean that you have to use it. Scan the Tri-X with the setting for Ilford, or something. You should find different results from the same negative. Some films seem to scan better than others. For example, I found Fuji Realla ISO100 to be the best for me, scanning 6X12 negatives with an Epson 3200 scanner. I get good three foot wide prints from the scanned negatives.

 

See the samples at www.XtremeDigitalPhotography.com

You can use view camera lenses on a Mamiya Press, but not directly. You need to build an adapter. Photo will be attached below.<div></div>

Just a FYI

 

Hastie Studio has an 8X10 Polariod camera for sale at eBay for $249. (It's big and heavy, so shipping might be high.) BTW, I bought stuff from this fellow a few years ago and had no problems.)

 

I have one of these TTI cameras (bought fron a different source) and am in the process of making a 6X24 panorama roll film adapter for it--three shots on a roll of 120 film.

 

Check my site in a month or two if you are interested in 6X24 format. I also have info. on another 6X24 with a 121mm Super-Angulon.

 

John

 

www.XtremeDigitalPhotography.com

I have had to answer my own question by putting the two shutters side-by-side, and--as they say in Maine--you can't get there from here. The copal 0 and the shutter for the Mamiya Press aren't even close. Different lens cell threads; different lens board hole size. (I'll try to attach a photo.) BTW the Surper-Angulon 90 mm did come in a copal-00 back in the 60's (?)--I have one on my 6X18 panorama camera--but the recent ones are Copal-0.

 

So ... I'm building a conversion unit--Mamiya bayonet to Copal#0. I'm not sure this will work. Stay tuned ...

 

John

 

www.XtremeDigitalPhotography.com<div></div>

What are the differences between a Schneider 3b center filter and a 3c? For

example, the 3c goes to a 47mm S-A, whereas the 3b is for a 90mm (both 67mm

size filters,) but is the real difference in the distribution of the graduation

center-to-edge, or the density of the filtering?

 

Can I use a 3c on a 90 mm lens and have things be close to corrected on the

edges of the negative.

 

(New filters are too expensive; used ones come up at eBay, but it seems that

only the 3c doesn't have outrageous pricing.)

Dan,

 

The circle of coverage for Mamiya lenses is about 120mm, so the most you could get is a 106 mm wide negative. I cut a knob-wind film back to 111mm wide, so the corners are not exposed. The Super Angulon will fully cover a 180mm wide negative on 120 roll film.

 

BTW, the 111mm Mamiya required replacing the "M-adapter." I also made a 106mm wide Mamiya with the "M-adapter" slightly modified, but still on the body.

 

BTW#2, the 106mm version camera with the 50mm Mamiya lens makes a great landscape camera.

 

The 6X12 Mamiya is easier to backpack into the wilderness than the 6X18.

 

Photos of the cameras can be found at www.XtremeDigitalPhotography.com.

 

John

At eBay there is currently a 90mm SuperAngulon in a Seikosha shutter.

 

Mamiya Press cameras use a Seikosha - S shutter.

 

Does this mean that lens cells for a Super Angulon can be mounted in a Mamiya

Press?

 

(Note: I think that the 90mm Super Angulon was available for Copal OO and Copal

0 shutters.)

 

Or, an I talking incompatible Apples and Oranges here?

 

BTW, the 90mm Super Angulon would cover a Mamiya modified to 6X12 if the lens

cells fit.

 

John

www.XtremeDigitalPhotography.com

Forget contact prints!

 

Tell your friends that you are shooting at more that 700 Megapixels. (7.5"X 9.5" negative area scanned at 3200 DPI) That should impress them!

 

Of course, to do so at full color will cost a fortune, and that is beyond the reach of most of us "starving artist" type photographers, but there is a way around this problem ... at least if you are a panorama photographer. I am currently designing a 8X10 to 2X10 conversion to use roll film in my 8X10. It will get 3 shots per roll of 120 film, so relatively speaking, this will be a reasonable $-per-photo.

 

I'll post a how-to manual at eBay in a month or two, so others can do this also. Look for an announcement at my photo site.

 

John

www.XtremeDigitalPhotography.com

The viewfinder for the Mamiya Press 50mm lens is wide enough for 6X17 with a 90mm Super-Angulon. You will just have to mask down the vertical. That's what I use for my 6X18, and it works very well. I used a wire-frame finder at first, but it was awkward.

 

See the photo at www.XtremeDigitalPhotography.com.

Just an FYI: You can put a 6X24 back on a 4X5 IF a)you can get your lens close to the back standard and b) you build a spacer box between the camera and the back. I turned a Polaroid MP-4 4X5 into a wide panorama camera. See the photos at the botton of the page at www.XtremeDigitalPhotography.com

The Mamiya dark slide is .009 thick and 2 3/8" wide. You can get brass .008" strips from K&S Engineering (Chicago) at hobby shops or hardware stores. Use a paper cutter to minimize distortion when cutting. The ends should be rounded and longer in the corners than the center. (1/16" is about right for the dished end.) A 1" belt sander works well for this. A paper punch can cut the lock hole. Fold the end over as a handle to grip. (Make sure you have no sharp edges.) Test before using with film.