stu weinstein

James, according to the serial # the camera is a IIIf. My previous posting is a link to a IIIf manual that you can download. Make sure you don't change shutter speeds before winding, and be careful about properly trimming the film leader. I reposted the link to the manual. Stu

 

http://yandr.50megs.com/leica/3f/3f.htm

http://yandr.50megs.com/leica/3f/3f.htm

I had a real hard time today focusing my M3. I was shooting dogs in

the park, hazy sunshine, most of the subjects were considerably darker

than the light grass background. Missed about 3/4 of my good shots.

Does "The Shade" work? I've had focusing problems before, but they

were few and far between, until today. Thanks. Stu

http://www.electricedge.com/gordy_s_straps/wrist-tripod/

Frank, If the lens is the silver model It can be worth quite a bit of money. Check prices before you let it go. Stu

I see the moderator removed the wise ass answers and left the helpful ones.

Maybe Jonathan dropped his M3, and maybe he would like a straight answer about how to take off the top plate because maybe he is going to try to remove the dent that is annoying him and maybe he doesn't feel like sending it out and spending 200 dollars to take out the dent or maybe he can't afford 200 dollars plus shipping right now and maybe he doesn't need any wise ass answers to make him feel worse than he already does?

I had an M3 with 2 dents and what looked like a bullet wound. DAG removed the 2 dents undetectably and the bullet wound is now just a small blemish. All is not lost. Your camera can be pristine again.

Hi Richard, I've re-stitched a couple of cases using this method and they look original. Stu

http://www.stereoscopy.com/cameras/re-stitching.html

Smaller Pic. Sorry.<div></div>

I'm pretty new to Leica owning. I have had 3 double stroke M3's, now

I'm down to 2. I sold the third to buy 2 more lenses. Anyway, when

having the opportunity to compare 3 of the same cameras side by side

small but obvious differences are noticeable. The most obvious to me

is the differences in the film advance levers. None stand off in the

same position, rest in the same position, or even look exactly the

same. I looked at a back issue of "Classic Camera" magazine that was

devoted to the "M" series, and every camera shown there had similar

differences. If there is such a varaiation in parts specs, I would

have to assume that repairs to these are a little more complex than

just remove the bad part and replace with new.<div></div>

I tried to photo the two lenses, but my 3mp camera wont focus that close. I used the scanner which sort of distorted the lenses. One lens has a red dot and the other has a plastic button. The infinity lock knobs are slightly different in shape. One lens is a couple of mm taller. One has no bayonet mount for a filter. One is in meters and the other in feet. On one the aperture ring turns from right to left and the other is the opposite. One has the apertures engraved on the ring and the other on the body. One has a thread in front nameplate and the other is held by a set screw. I'm sure there is more. Both are "M" lenses. I don't know about the inside construction.<div></div>

I have 2 Summarit M 5cm Lenses. Side by side there are some obvious

differences in the cosmetics and the actual shape of the parts-so much

so that they would not interchange. Is there any site which has

detailed info on Leica lens variations and construction? Thanks. Stu

There was a previous thread on this issue, and the fix was explained-even pics were included. Something to do with a nut under the rewind knob that works loose. Stu

Sorry About Posting In The Wrong Section. The excitement of a new toy you know.

I just purchased a lens from a forum member, Henry Chu. It's a

pleasure opening the box and finding something that is better than

described.

I believe the wheel has to be wound and then the plunger pulled up. Here is a in link which a member explains how to adjust the timer.

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=005DS8

The oil must go. I have a Zeiss Sonnar 1.5 that was completely locked by the surface tension of the oil on the aperture blades. Also, the oil migrated there-so the rest of the lube on the lens is broken down.

http://www.aki-asahi.com/store/

I see you used Aki's scratch protector kit. Another great product.

The shutter speeds should be good as the camera was just adjusted by Don. I think I'll try another 50mm lens, which I have access to, and trythe different suggestions in processing. I'll let you know how I make out. Thanks again. Stu

I develop the film myself, but I don't do the processing. I couldn't fit 10 lbs of loose sand in my garage, so a darkroom is out for now. I do have 2 enlargers though. Go figure? A friend of mine has a minilab and I've been "proofing" the negs on his machine. When he scans them we've tried to find any detail in the bright areas but they just aren't there. On one shot a sunlit window was in the frame, and the window actually was visible past the margin of the film-almost to the sprocket holes. I don't see how, but trust me the film is loaded properly. Outdoors shots are better but still very flat looking. I tried a roll of c41 process b&w film and my results were much better, so I'm leaning toward processing error? Stu

I'm relatively new to Leica, and I've been having a little problem. I

have 2-m3's, both with Summicron lenses, one with some haze and light

cleaning marks, the other with no haze and heavy cleaning marks. The

problem is when shooting b&w the bright areas get completely blown

out, especially noticeable when there is some backlighting. Color film

is not as much a problem. To expose properly for the subject the light

areas lack any detail. I use 400tx, and process according to Kodak's

instructions. I am going to have the lenses redone as soon as everyone

comes back from vacation, but is there a better film or processing

technique I could try in the interim? Thanks. Stu

Hey guys, I ended up with 3 Leica film winders while purchasing some M

mount equipment. I had no use for them, and sold them. One gentleman

who purchased one tells me that the bottom plug that holds the film

canister is too large in diameter to hold a standard film

cartridge-larger than on other AFLOO winders-although he states that

the part looks original to the winder. Were there different cartridge

reels? Maybe for the Reporter? Thanks. Stu

I think I'll invest in the CLA. I can always have the front elements redone at a later date. Thanks.