dennis osipiak

Numerous lighting posts have the same reply..buy as much power as you can

initially afford. Just to be clear..since AB and other units can be dialed down

to 1/32 power etc, is it reasonable to assume that in a smaller setting

(smaller room..say at a house etc) that the AB 1600 won't present a problem with

being too strong? ( I know that ISO and f-stop factor into this but I still

want to ask the question.

Dennis

I've read quite a few posts regarding the inconsistency of the sharpness of the

Canon 50 1.4, ranging from sharp to very soft. Most people report the softness

at 2.8 or below which creates the question...If someone is buying the 1.4 to use

at 2.8 or below to gain the extra light and it isn't sharp then how useful is

it? Since I own other lenses which are "L" glass there is a financial limit for

the time being as to how many L lenses I can buy. Thats what created the

interest in the 50/1.4. Am I rolling the dice for sharpess or is the issue

overstated? (at 2.8 or below to get the extra light I need for church interiors

etc, or to throw the backgrounds out intentionally). Since opinions vary, I

expect to hear a variety but I'm still willing to listen before making a decision.

Dennis

When designing albums I certainly look for inspiration from links to other

albums/studios etc. When viewing as a slideshow double spread the seam is not

noticeable due to the resolution of the computer and the smaller computer image

size compared to the actual album layout size.

Yet so many designs actually place critical faces and people where the seam will

definitely pass through, allowing for some great design ideas around the image.

Yet in reality even a well produced book from Zookbinders or others still shows

a noticeable seam through the center of this double page spread when viewed as

an actual album and not a website slideshow of the album. How do other

professional photographers feel about this? Does the impact of a great design

overshadow this issue? Is it not even an issue with some? Do brides comment

about seams that pass through faces etc? Let me know what you think and how you

deal with it if you do your own designs.

Dennis

Since CS3 isn't out my question maybe premature or unanswerable..but a good

guess is all I need. Previous upgrade costs run around $160..but does that

have to be from the most recent version before the new edition...ie: can a CS1

user upgrade for the same cost as a CS2 user when purchasing the upgrade to

CS3? I realize there is some logical limit to how far back an upgrade can

qualify for..but CS1 shouldn't be a problem ..right??

Dennis

Sarah,

Ask any and all questions..thats what we're here for. I've been photographing weddings for 31 years and still cruise these forums for advice and ideas and inspiration. I still cannot grasp why any individual who finds a question too repetitive (and answers "DO A SEARCH!") or too simple a question (and answers "LEARN BEFORE YOU EARN") doesn't just skip the question and read and or/reply to another topic.No one is forced to read or reply to a question.Why do they take the time to reply in a non-constructive way? Just skip the question and move on. While I think its important to caution newbies to be fully equiped (with backup equipment etc) and to not take on assignments beyond their technical skill level, those comments should always be said in a helpful and non-sarcastic way. The fact that so many forum members are willing to answer repetitive questions or simplistic ones just goes to show that most of us truly care and want to help. Take care Sarah..continue to ask, and of course proceed slowly as I mentioned above.

Dennis

Some of the images that impress me most and often carry the most emotional

impact are digital images that frame the bride or couple very tightly when

composed and shot. With digital format (4x6 ratio) space for cropping always

has to left to get back to a 8x10 or similar format for some print orders. Now

I know that I could leave that space in the original capture and then crop in

tight for the proof, but that would require cropping alot of images prior to

even proofing.I know that if I'm using a tight shot for an album design,

format isn't an issue..I make it so it 'works' in my layout..but how about

reprints etc? Those of you who produce some tight and sometimes angle images

for effect..what do you do?...shoot both "tight" and loose.... shot loose and

crop prior to some proofs?? Thanks

Dennis

My canon 17-85mm IS zoom has been occasionally soft and somewhat more

inconsistent than I would like. It's about a year and half old and I've been

satisfied with its clarity prior to this. I've thought about sending it back

to Canon to check it out, calibrate it and or repair if necessary. Has anyone

done something like this and have a handle on possible cost? Obviously if

inspection and alignment (if necessary) is more than half the cost of a

replacement it wouldn't make sense. While I'll probably kick up to a couple

of "L" lenses soon (photo show coming up in NYC) I want to take advantadge of

the lenses I have presently also.

Dennis

About six months ago i came across a posting listing a promo code for BH photo

that I actually used and it worked on a Canon 30D and lens. I used it in April

or May and the code was something like "Jan 06" or something like that. Is

anyone familar with any existing codes or promos by BH? I also know there was a

canon rebate program at the time, but thats not what I'm refering to.

Thanks

Dennis

Looking for input..I've had the 17-85IS canon for a year and a half with

essentially no problems ( on a Canon 20D). However over the last month or so

(3-4 functions)focus has been a little off in some pix and a lot off in a few. I

thought I heard what sounded like an electrical short for one frame where no

photo could be taken. A minute later everything worked. (issue was not a uniform

background where I know acheiving focus can sometimes be difficult..this was

outdoors, lots of light and contrast)

I've done some test focusing on text and the image seems sharp enough. Any

possibilty that it could be something in the body end of things/or recording the

raw data on the chip? (I am shooting RAW)Or is it definitely a lens issue? Lens

elements?

The photos that are somewhat soft can be sharpened in photoshop, but I am

concerned about enlargements. Does anyone have some thoughts on this..especially

the intermitent nature of it all?

Dennis (PS I'm relying on my backup equipment till I get to the bottom of this)

Use the utility and professional software versions that came with the 30D. They handle both the 20d and 30D. The software that came with the 20D can't read the 30D files.

Dennis

I presently back up weddings (RAW and JPEGs files) to 2 Hard drives, one of

which I usually keep off site, and I also burn CD's with the processed JPEGs.

I've also just started doing some progold slideshows to the photodex site and to

CD's with good results so far. ( I've followed a few postings and threads that

had mixed reviews). My request is for some advice on DVD burners/software that

would take the place of the CD's I now use. I know that whenever someone is

looking for input on a camera, computer or software, opinions are diverse.Like

anyone else I'll decide for myself with the forums input as a framework. The

obvious variables are cost, reliabilty, speed. Given the needs of both backup

and slideshow work, give me some sugestions including possible cost ranges.I did

do some searching but find a direct question such as this more fruitful..and/or

it may generate a quicker link to a previous post.

Thanks in advance.

Dennis

Progold seems to have as many supporters as critics ...much like the digital

vs film people.My primary goal is have a nice slideshow of my work on my

website, and then offer it as part of my packages as a DVD. Showit2 can burn

to a CD but not a DVD. Progold has more features and is considerably less

expensive.I've done my searches on Proshow gold and ShowIt2. I've demo'd the

Showit2 software and I was able to link it into my website. I plan to demo the

Progold but my initial concern is whether it works well as website add-on. Is

progold more suited for TV viewing via players and not as a website link?

Please give me your opinion. I want my cake and to eat it too!..meaning for my

website and to give/sell to brides!

Dennis

I've searched and read a few thoughts on the use of second flashes to keep

flash falloff to a minimum in a banquet hall/restaurant. I've read of the use

of Alien Bees, other monolights and duplicate 580 flash units in lightstands.

What i'd like is opinion and clarification. First..if the area isn't a grand

ballroom, but an average restaurant or facilty would a second 580EX be

sufficient...and if the answer is yes would you bounce it off an umbrella,

ceiling or shoot the 2nd flash through a small diffuser? If a second 580EX

couldn't cut it, how many WS/or what guide # should a monolight have? ( I know

there are multiple variables of distance, angle, reflectance etc but I still

want some input.) While I do subscribe to the K.I.S.S principle, especially

for those of us without assistants, I'd like to explore some new lighting

options. I presently use a single off camera bracketed 580EX, bounced whenever

possible, or diffused with the lightsphere or Dembs flip it. What does the

photonet community think regarding a 2nd light source?

Dennis

Use the utility programs that came with the 30D camera ,either Canons Zoombrowser (under edit RAW in the program), or use the Digital Photo Professional program that came with the camera. I had the same issue until someone kindly gave me the above advice. Zoombrowser is easier, DPP has more bells and whistles. Also--the manual explaining it all is on the CD also.

Dennis

PS..I might be wrong but the Adobe download is for CS2 and not CS unless theres been a recent change.

If you post client photos for on line viewing via smugmug etc do you think

submitting smaller image size (250 x320 for just an example) is the way to

minimize others saving, downloading, reprinting etc? Or adding the

word "copywrite" add a reduced opacity (50%?) to a full sized image is the way

to go? While photoshopping out text from a photo can happen, I can't imagine

anyone from a family or guest list taking the time to do any large number of

images.(Time consuming and quality loss) (or am I naive?)

Thanks

Dennis

I posted this message on the digital camera forum about a month ago, with no

reply. I'm hoping to get a reply here. (Some people frequent certain forums

but not others). I assume some wedding photographers (like myself) have both

the 20D and 30D. In theory there should be no appreciable difference in the

images, yet my 30D seems to need more compensation, and secondly the LCD image

does not seem to have skin tones as accurate as the 20D. I know the "standard"

shooting parameters have been changed slightly by Canon for the 30D, but I

want to know if anyone has noticed a difference in any regard between the RAW

images for both cameras. (Note-same flash 580EX for both, 17-85mm IS on the

20D, 28-135 IS on the 30D) Any thoughts? Dennis

I've used the 20 D exclusively until deciding to add a 30D to the lineup.

Logic would dictate very similar exposures should occur since I used the exact

same flash..a 580 EX on both. (not 2-580's but the same flash transfered

periodically)and I had some very similar lighting situations and camera

settings (both P and manual). Yet I noticed the 30D RAW images somewhat darker

and of need to "bumping" up when converting. My RAW viewing initially was with

the Canon software that came with the 20D and the 30D, since PS CS doesn't

have a Raw plugin for the 30D. By the way..the canon software for the 20D will

not open the 30D RAW files.Anyone shooting both cameras, 20D and 30D for the

same event and seeing any difference in the RAW exposures? Any thoughts?

Dennis ( 1 variable that did change would be the lens..17-85 IS for the 20D

and a 28-135 IS for the 30D, but I doubt that has a bearing.)

Ditto on the observation that any brand can fail. Ditto on the comments that LaCie seem to have done it more often. (Mine did.... and the followup with LaCie wasn't pretty-while I did get satisfaction it was ugly)Thank God evrything gets backed up as I did redundently.

Dennis

I'm posting this in weddings because I have a need for some very neutral

backgrounds for some window light shots / and space limitations in some

brides homes with very cluttered environments...A few questions....#1 Is 6'

wide the smallest width? #2 What company(s) offer these smaller backdrops? #3

What are the simpliest setups/stands to hold these backdrops..quick up/quick

down..very portable #4 Cost Thanks Dennis

I've gone to their site (Smugmug) and also searched photonet..I'm not clear

whether a subscription at level 1 or 2 (std and power?) requires using their

service for sales, or can I subscribe just to post photos for clients to see

and then contact me for purchase? If they require taking orders and a percent

to do so, then who might others recommend that has quality and features

similar to smugmug.I just want posting for my clients to see out of state and

then contact me for orders. My lab (an excellent one) charges per event to

post, and that gets to be expensive so I'm looking around.

thanks ..Dennis

Two 30 D RAW conversion questions. # 1... The only way I can open and edit 30D

RAW images is with Canons bundled utility software, both the digital

professional and the Canon Zoombrowser. Both show my images darker than in

camera. As a check I used the 30D conversion software to look at 20D images

and notice they seem darker then they do if I use the 20D conversion software

(for 20D images only of course). This makes me worry that I might overlighten

images as I adjust them.Since many people have purchased the 30D and shoot

RAW, I'd like your thoughts, especially if you also have the 20D with its

software for comparison. Question #2 is related..Is there an available Adobe

CS plug in for the 30D images as there was for the 20D? Although I don't have

CS2 I'd also like to know if CS2 can handle 30D RAW files.

Thanks in advance

Dennis

While this may be a lighting forum question, many of my friends frequent this

forum more often, Nadine, Ben, Ed and others. I've read some posts about using

CTO gels (1/4 usually I think) placed over the strobe to match up a heavy

tungsten background when using flash. I'm looking for any specifics anyone

might offer..when to use 1/4 , 1/2 etc. Also..do you set your WB on the camera

(20D , 30D) to a particular temp, or do you just adjust it all in PS since I

shoot RAW anyhow? How does a 1/4 CTO affect strobe output (580EX) and does

anyone try to use a LS with gel film over it? (Seems odd) Any suggestions for

purchase? Finally does anyone have any sample photos showing how well the

gel/film helps..especially a "with CTO and without" photos?

Dennis

In my previous Canon utility program EOS view utility (1.21?) the shooting

information shown also included whether flash compensation was used (+1,+2

etc) along with the program selected (P,AV etc)This utility (zoombrowser or

pro 2.1 has shutter speed, ISO, exposure comp, flash on or off etc but nothing

about flash compensations or program mode, P,AV etc) Am I missing something?

Dennis

Both utilities (Digital photo professional , Zoombrowser)seem to have many

common features. Can someone explain what each should be used for vs the

other? My inclination is that the Digital professional 2.1 offers more in

depth editing capibilities for RAW, however both will edit and process RAW

for basic needs. Please clarify their differences and uses.

Dennis

Thanks to Mark C and Craig..Everything is fine..the answer was in the utility software that came with the 30D.(the 20D software obviously was not designed for whatever upgrades the 30D offers, and that makes sense) If it wasn't for friends like I've made on photonet I probably would have been doing all kinds phone calling and maybe even returning a camera that had no problems..and looking foolish for it too. People on this forum either have most of the answers to a variety of problems both simple (like this one)or complex ones that sometimes everyone comes across. I may have been in the photography business for 32 years, but this is proof that you never have all of the answers, nor can you ever make enough professional friends. Thanks to all!

Dennis