dennis osipiak

<p>I recently took a seminar with Joe McNally with NAPP on of camera use of flash and was very impressed with the degree of control he was able to exercise from his primary or commander flash on camera. ( All Nikon). Settings on all of the remote flash units could vary from one another (ie one manual, one +2 comp TTL, one zero comp etc, zoom functions etc) and most importantly the primary commander flash could make those changes for EACH flash <em><strong>without</strong></em> going to each flash. All settings could be done remotely and could differ from one another. All of my stuff is Canon ( 580's and 580II ex's). Two questions....#1-- I know that settings like comp or shifting to manual can be done to the remote flash by making those changes at each flash, but can those changes be done from the main flash unit master as Nikon speedlites can? #2--how many flash units can be in each remote group? ( I believe there can be up to 3 remote groups, A,B,C, but can more than one flash be designated in group B for example?<br>

Thanks..Dennis</p>

<p>Minus 40 celsius equals -40F (1.8xC +32=F). Can't help but wonder what person would consider -40F wedding weather!</p>

<p>Far too often lately my flash ( Canon 580ex-2 and 580 EX) has changed from ettl to ttl. (Flash unit reads TTL under the mode )Since I tried isolating the cause by swapping various combinations together ( changing the the off camera flash cord, changing the flash unit) I believe it must be in the camera itself, possibly the hotshoe connection, possibly the camera. When this occurs flash seens to go full power or close to it because only a sharp change in aperture ( manual setting on camera) gets me back to a reasonable exposure. (otherwise no amount of flash comp helps) I've removed and then reattached the off camera cords (and changed cords) thinking there may be a loose connection somewhere but rarely does that seem to help. I use both the canon5D MK2 and the Canon 40D and various 'L" lenses.Flash cords are a Canon..no off brand cords. ETTL will return for no obvious reason, then disappear later. Any thoughts? Camera? Flash unit? Cords? Hotshoe connection?</p>

<p>Canon 40D- ISO 250- F14 Manual Exposure, fill flash, Canon 580EX</p><div></div>

The title says it all..I'd like to take images from different cameras and 1st synchronize them by time of

capture,THEN renumber them in Adobe bridge or Capture 1 . My guess is after renumbering you could sort by time

but the numbers would then be out of sequence because they are now ordered by time. (assuming you can synchro by

time in Adobe Bridge. (by the way how do you synchro by time in bridge or Capture 1?)

Lens length was set at 50mm...and the lens is Image Stabilization lens (24-105 "L".)

Once in a while an image blur (as shown on the attached photo..I posted at 900x1200 to see better but I can

upload a larger version if needed) has me puzzled. Looking closely you'll see nothing

is in focus from front to back.Unless the auto focus was in error focusing very close to the camera out of view in

the photo, I don't believe its a focus issue. ( also the image has ghosting implying shutter speed issues .)

Photo was with flash (short duration of course) so neither photographer movement nor image movement (motionless

petals are blurry front to back) should be an issue. If it is photographer movement as I step backwards shouldn't

the short flash duration negate my motion as it does for example when a couple is dancing? While 99+ % of images

are fine all the way around I'd like

to know what might be going on to avoid any future problems if a shot was one of a kind in nature.. Camera is a

2008 Canon 40D, Canon 24-105 'L' lens. Photo was f4..1/60th<div></div>

Besides the size of the brush and the hardness , with the quick selection tool you have "spacing" to specify.

Please explain what spacing changes and what values are best for different selections.. Thanks

I want to purchase a new Dell XPS 420 Quad core. I need a lot more speed and

memory than I have now for my photoshop work.(I've upgraded my memory once and

don't care to add more, plus I need much more speed.) With so much negativity

re:Vista, I wondered what problems I might encounter if I reformatted a 2008

computer purchase and then added XP as my new operating system. (My copy of XP

is about 4 years old I think) I know I can download the various service packs

that Windows has needed again for XP, but I wonder how much of Vista optimizes

the Quad core technology and other features of the new computers. I know XP will

cause fewer conflicts but it seems counter intuitive to put a 2002 engine into a

2008 car. Can XP take full advantage of whatever the 2008 computer design has to

offer?

Most everyone says the same thing..parts of the shoe break too easily.Ditto for

me. I've bought 4,keep two at all times and have upgraded to the beefier

OCF3.But they still break on the flash end attached to the bracket. Is there a

replacement foot for the smaller end of the OCF cord's shoe...This part actually

is attached by 3 easy to remove Phillips head screws. This is the end attached

to the flash itself,then to the bracket, not the larger portion attached to the

camera shoe. Does Canon or anyone make any replacements parts for this? There

are no electronics in this part, just the plastic shoe part that goes in the

stroboframe bracket.

I agree any HD can have a failure. But my experience with LaCie was an awful one and I vowed I'd tell everyone the hassle I had w/ the company. I'm just grateful that all my stuff is backed up multiple ways (DVD's AND other HD's.)

As for what I use..I've put many Seagates into use with no problems, with varying capacities up to 500gb.I'll stick with what works and avoid the LaCies.

That cord is TTL.

After going onto BH photos's website to buy what must be my 5th off camera flash

cord (the plastic shoe is a ridiculous design except as a great sales booster)

I came to realize that none of the cords sold by Canon or other makers for Canon

support ETTL-2..all list only TTL. Am I missing something? Do I have to buy an

expensive Canon transmitter to get the benefits of ETTL-2 in order to use the

flash on a bracket off camera? Please advise!

Has anyone used Dell computer recently to purchase Canon bodies/lenses? Some

coupon offers through Dell can be $100-$200 cheaper than BH photo if you catch

their specials. Is theirs a USA warranty? Do products get returned to Dell or

Canon if there is a problem? Any info from someone who has a bought a pro or

prosumer model (DSLR's only) let me know of your experience.

Yes you can get an 8x10 from the digital 4x6 format, its just the resulting image wouldn't look very good if it was already very tight in the original, then made even tighter as you cropped off another 20-30% to get the 8x10 format.

I offer both flush mount albums with original designs and traditional mat albums

with 8x10's (among other sizes). Some of the images I admire and do on occasion

are very tight closeups..they look great as previews and as part of a design in

a flush mount book where I control images size and format.Of course that means

8x10's are out of the question because of the format ratios. (No-one is

interested in 10x13's for photos to the family etc) . I'm curious if others just

continue to shoot some tight compositions (letting customers know that 8x10's,

16x20's are not possible with those photos)or do you just leave the extra room

for cropping 8x10's and then print some of the same images brought in tight in

PS for the "impact" view? (Double proofing some images then) Please note that I

include actual preview prints along with the final larger album (flush or mat)

Dennis

Any suggestions for locations for a wedding party park shoot between Bristol, Ct

and Litchfield, Ct? Nothing too far off the main roads. Stonewalls, low foliage

for backgrounds are a definite plus. I plan on taking a drive up Rt118 to do

some exploring, but any CT photographers who want to chime in...go for it! It's

ironic that I've shot over 1100 weddings all over Ct , but so few in the

Litchfield area. (Crystal Peak is a nice venue if the reception was there, but

it isn't.) Hillstead Musuem Grounds was nice til they stopped allowing photos.

(Reception is at the Litchfield Inn (inside ok..outside plain)Late October 27

may also limit the availibilty of background foliage but sometime you get lucky

with trees that hang onto their leaves a little longer than others.Let me know

what you think.

Dennis

On various occasions, each of my 580ex canon flashes "buzzes and stays lit"

for a second or two. Flash works as

expected before and after some of these ocurences, but it has me worried..is the

flash or the hotshoe lead (off camera hotshoe cord) short circuiting? Is it the

camera hotshoe connection ..which I've heard sometimes loosens up? (although a

loose connection would prevent firing, not the reverse of staying lit for a

second or two.) I haven't had the time/patience to try different camera/flash

combos because the problem may happen only once in 200 exposures and I have

quite a few camera bodies (20d's and 30d's)

Besides worrying about flashes going bad at a lousey time, I'm also worried

about any ETTL curcuitry that may be affected whether in the camera or the flash

head.

Has anyone had this happen before..any thoughts?

Dennis

I have PS CS1 and purchased CS3 upgrade. On my present CS1 I've deleted a few

things by accident, made some changes that I'd like to reverse. Basically I'd

like to start with a clean, new install of CS1 before I install the CS3 . I

assume that CS1 has to be on the computer and recognized by CS3 before the CS3

install will begin..Correct? Do I just do an "uninstall " of CS1 and then load

it up again? I'd like to reinstall all of my purchased actions fresh (Kubotas

etc) after doing the fresh install of CS1. I guess my question is getting

redundent..I want to start CS1 fresh bfore loading up CS3. Suggestions???

Dennis

I've done lots of ring shots over flowers etc, but what I've seen and liked to

try is extreme closeups of rings, blurring the background (how open should the F

stop be with this intense closeup?) (for 20D and 30D cameras) What focal length

would you advise? Macros are all over the place in focal length...Second

question involves lighting..to maximize detail and contrast how do you advise

lighting this shot? Rings can off the hand or in some cases still on.

thanks

Dennis

I wondering if anyone knows of a convenient and simple way to secure a light

stand that has a Alien Bee's head on it by ading a weight or something similar

to the base. (I already widen the base "feet" quite a bit. ) I want to avoid

getting it knocked over easily, both for the safety of the guest and my own

liability. I plan on using them sparingly and keeping them as out the way as

light distances permit.

Thanks.. Dennis

You should have the raw conversion software suppled with the 30D camera..actually 2 programs..one called Zoombrowsers and the other more advanced CanonDPP (DPPI?) I believe. Both convert RAW, but DPP has more fine tuning. Both should and do allow for renumbering files. (Files are on the Canon utilities CDROM that came with the camera)

Dennis

At the reception...I can answer my own question when ceilings are high or off

colored,,umbrella has to better..but..shoot straight through or reflect into the

umbrella? (AB 1600). Second question...if I do bounce off the ceiling for softer

and broader light should I have the 7" reflector on or off? I like the

even/softer light (usually) of ceiling bounce but some reception venues soak up

the light with darker ceilings or serious height issues for 580EX flash.Any

reply from monolight users is appreciated.

Dennis

I did my search..4pages later I'm ready for help. I want to find and purchase

some relatively inexpensive folding or collapsible short seats/stools for some

variety in posing larger Bridal parties and or families for weddings outdoors.

Years ago lots of discount stores ( a dissappearing breed) carried simple canvas

or metal foldup stools that were about 30-36 inches tall. I've googled outdoor

equipment suppliers, lawn furniture searches, and the traditional walmart,

target, Sears etc with no luck. Any ideas/links? Sturdy enough to be safe, light

enough to collapse and carry a few easily.

Thanks

Dennis

My wedding work presently makes use of various flash modifers like the Fong's

LS, Dembs flip it, the mini softbox over the 580ex etc, along with bouncing

off the ceiling when the height isn't too high.Everything mentioned has pluses

and minuses, along with issues of ETTL. However I recently purchased a 1600

model of the AB along with various modifers including silver, white and shoot

through umbrellas and a photek softlight unit.I'm looking for a more

consistent even lighting than the strobroframe bracket and bouncing with a

580ex that I use presently. Venue considerations, less obtrusive placement

will factor into whether it would be useful. Not to be moved around. I

envision that there are sometimes when it wouldn't be practical. My questions

include what modifer might light the dance floor/cake area etc more evenly

(with sufficient power).Should I just bounce off a neutral ceiling (if its

not too high) to get the even spread? Wouldn't a modifer give me more of what

I'm seeking? How about using the stroboframed 580ex along with the AB to get

some directional differences. Since everything would have to be manual

settings, some test shots done to a sekonic flash meter would be needed, then

some necessary "on the fly" adjustments due to some distance variations. Does

anyone ever use an Alien Bee like this? If you do use this set up, I'd like

to see some photos if possible. thanks in advance.

Dennis