jim_carden

March 20, 2012

Spend $10 and send it to Nikon Service Center in CA or NY for an estimate. They may tell you it canbe fixed for the

scheduled price of $97 plus tax & shipping ~$125 with a 6-month warranty. Wouldn't you like a nice SB600 for $125?

October 19, 2011

Idea for a poor man's lightning trigger for cameras that have an electric shutter release cable...Attach an optical flash trigger to the electric shutter release cable and set the camera for a slow shutter speed. When the lightning flashes it will excite the optical flash trigger and trip the shutter. Might work. Probably worth a try. I have all the parts here but we almost never get a lightning storm here in Seattle. Yeah, that's right. Our weather reputation is constant rain but we actually almost never see lightning. Oh well.

October 19, 2011

Regarding compatible flash: Try the Sunpak PZ5000AF which is currently sold new by KEH on Amazon for $55. It's an older, discontinued model so I'm guesing it's new old stock but it's quite a powerful and capable unit. And it's LARGE, like the F4. Enjoy!

October 11, 2010

Try Robert Decker or nikonusedcameras. Web search will get you their contact info.

October 11, 2010

Lots of repair shops won't touch these old cameras as there are no parts available but here are a couple of suggestions regarding where to send it.

1) Robert Decker does lots of work on F2 meters. Search teh web fo rhis contact info. He fixed my F2/AS meter a few years ago. I think he used to have a meter overhaul service on eBay but does simple repairs as well. I took advantage of his overhaul service for several F/FTN prisms.

2) There is a 'nikonusedcameras' website whose owner is in the Bay Area. He has repaired several older Nikons for me and would be worth contacting for his thoughts. Just add a 'www' and a 'com' and you'll find his site.

Best of luck.

--Jim C.

July 26, 2010

The dreaded double-post. -- Jim C.

July 26, 2010

I want to add a word of encouragement and a word of caution. First, the encouragement; The Fs are terrific cameras. If you think it's worthwhile to fix them there are places to find parts and people who can fix them--Camera Clinic in Shoreline, Wash. You'll likely meet some interesting people and hear some interesting stories along the way. That's part of the fun. Of course you can also buy an F100 if you want. They are amazingly capable and can be had for a song these days. Now the word of caution; I was given an F that looked great on the outside but had a cracked mirror and didn't work. I have no idea how the mirror cracked--perhaps an unknowing user mounted one of the lenses that requires the mirror be locked up--but it appears that a portion of the broken mirror separated and jammed into the sutter curtain resulting in a shredded titanium curtain when the shutter was cocked. Ouch!

Best of luck,

Jim C.

May 12, 2010

I had a similar situation but with mine the "grains" actually started leaking out. It turns out that the ASA resistor in the F3 is a glass ring that sometimes breaks. As you turn the ASA ring the broken glass begins to crumble and grind. I sent my F3 to John Hawley at nikonusedcameras.com and it was fixed at a very reasonable cost. If you email him I think he would give you a repair estimate. Best of luck.

March 18, 2010

Just to clarify, the proposal does not alter the behavior of Manual mode; Manual mode remains manual. The proposal does provide some additional finctionality but only when the photographer activates EVL (i.e., presses the AEL button).

March 17, 2010

When I wrote the proposal I assumed a basic familiarity with the the photographic term, "Exposure Value" or EV. Some of the responses lead me to make this brief additional explanation and draw attention to the distinction between Exposure Value and Exposure Compensation. Please search the web for a more comprehensive definition of EV. There is a Wikipedia entry that's rather complicated but Table 2 there is illustrative. I'll do my best here.

EV - Exposure Value is any combination of shutter speed, aperture and ISO that gives the same exposure. For example, EV 9 is equivalent to 1/60 sec at F2.8 at ISO 100. EV 9 is also equivalent to 1/30 at F4.0 at ISO 100 or 1/2 sec at F16 at ISO 100 or 1/4 sec at F16 at ISO 200 (see Table 2 in the Wikipedia entry). Double the light in an EV 9 scene and it becomes EV 10. Halve the light and it becomes EV 8. Understanding this EV concept is important to understanding the proposal. Where the proposal says, "The camera will then automatically make an offsetting adjustment in the other setting to maintain the locked EV..." it means that if EVL option is selected in the Setup Menu and EVL is user-activated by the AEL button then if the scene is 'locked' to EV 9 so the exposure is set to 1/60 sec at F2.8 at ISO 100 and the user moves the shutter speed to 1/30 sec (e.g., to pick up some motion blur or to increase DOF) then the proposed EVL will set the aperture to F4.0 in order to preserve that EV 9 (i.e., 1/30, F4.0 and ISO 100).

EC - Exposure Compensation is a way of overriding the shutter speed or aperture that has been set in the camera. You might think of EC as a way to override the EV that was measured by the camera's built-in light meter. EC is activated by pressing the +- button on the top cover of the camera (I think it's the same on all Nikon DSLRs). In the original post I wrote that "3. Manually adjusting the Exposure Compensation results in a corresponding change to the shutter speed (A mode) or aperture (S mode), or both (P mode). (same as AEL today)."

Thanks for reading and sharing.

March 17, 2010

Interesting responses, thank you. The proposal aims to enhance functionality only for those who choose to use it. If you don't want EVL at all the proposal allows you to select AEL behavior in the camera setup--you'll never know EVL exists. However, one of the things EVL does, when active, is to preserve the existing functionality, albeit with a bit more flexibility. If you prefer the way things work today, that is all preserved for you. Let's take look.

Manual mode users don’t use AEL now--it does nothing in M-mode--and they wouldn’t be forced to use it under the EVL proposal. However some M-mode shooter might find it useful. Consider this scenario; currently, if I shoot M-Mode and I want to change from shallow depth-of-field-settings on one shot to slow-shutter-settings on another shot, I have to turn the shutter speed dial some number of clicks in one direction and then click the aperture dial the exact same number of clicks in the opposite direction. If I’m off by one click then my exposure is changed. The proposed behavior allows you to spin one dial while EVL adjusts the other to preserve your manually set EV.

A-mode users who use AEL can currently adjust their aperture setting while AEL is active and they can still adjust their aperture setting in the same way under the EVL proposal. In addition, if an A-mode user had chosen EVL as their preference they would also be able to adjust their shutter speed while EVL is active. It’s the same functionality as today but with a bit more flexibility.

P- and S-mode users who use AEL can currently adjust their shutter speed setting while AEL is active and they can still adjust their shutter speed setting in the same way under the proposal. In addition, if a P-or S-mode user had chosen EVL as their preference they would also be able to adjust their aperture while EVL is active. Again, it’s the same functionality as today but with a bit more flexibility.

There are several settings that the camera owner sets one time and leaves for the duration of their ownership. Changing the direction of the exposure indication is one of those. Another is switching the shutter speed to the front dial and the aperture to the rear dial. I’d put AEL vs. EVL behavior in that same category. It’s the kind of setting that you’d set once to see which way you prefer and then use it that way for the duration.

March 17, 2010

What do you think about my suggestion below for improving Nikon's AEL functionality?

Situation –Nikon’s AEL behavior is somewhat inconsistent—depending on what exposure mode (P, S, or A) the photographer sets—and currently has no effect at all when shooting in M mode. For example: When AEL is activated in Aperture priority (A) mode, the photographer can manually adjust the aperture and the camera automatically makes an offsetting change in the shutter speed. In P and S modes, turning the aperture dial has no effect at all, but manually adjusting the shutter speed dial results in an automatic offsetting change in the aperture. And finally, in M mode, activating AEL simply does not lock the exposure; it appears to have no effect whatsoever. Photographers would be better served with a consistent operation of the aperture and shutter speed dials when AEL is activated, regardless of which exposure mode (P, S, A or M) is selected.

Target - Improve the photographer’s exposure-lock capabilities by expanding its application to M mode and providing consistent lock-override behavior across all exposure modes (P, S, A and M). Let’s call this new capability EVL for Exposure Value Lock.

Proposal - In order to minimize the impact on existing users, the existing AEL functionality can be preserved and an option added to the camera’s Setup Menu to allow EVL (Exposure Value Lock) or AEL functionality to be selected for the AEL button.

When the EVL option has been selected in the Setup Menu and the AEL button is activated (i.e., EVL is turned on), the AEL button will lock the aperture and shutter speed just as it does today. The difference between AEL and EVL functionality is that with EVL active, the user can adjust the shutter speed dial or the aperture dial, regardless of exposure mode (P, S, A or M). The camera will then automatically make an offsetting adjustment in the other setting to maintain the locked EV. With EVL this behavior will be identical in all of the exposure modes (P, S, A and M).

Other settings that influence exposure will behave under EVL in the same way they do today with AEL:

1. If auto-ISO is active then the ISO will be automatically adjusted from the user‑set ISO when the pre-set limits of shutter speed are reached. (same as AEL today)

2. Manually adjusting the ISO results in a corresponding change to the shutter speed (A mode) or aperture (S mode), or both (P mode) depending on exposure mode selected. (same as AEL today)

3. Manually adjusting the Exposure Compensation results in a corresponding change to the shutter speed (A mode) or aperture (S mode), or both (P mode). (same as AEL today)

The proposal expands and simplifies the photographer’s exposure-lock capability and provides additional creative control in all exposure modes. The following table summarizes the differences between the current AEL and the proposed EVL behaviors.

<tbody>

<tr >

Exposure Mode

</td>

Current AEL Behavior

</td>

Proposed EVL Behavior

</td>

</tr>

<tr >

P-mode

S-mode

</td>

Program mode – When AEL is active only the shutter speed dial can be adjusted. When the shutter speed is manually adjusted the camera automatically makes an offsetting change in the aperture. Manually turning the aperture dial has no effect whatsoever.

</td>

When EVL is active the shutter speed dial or the aperture dial can be adjusted. When one setting is manually adjusted the camera will automatically make an offsetting adjustment in the other setting to maintain the “locked” EV.

</td>

</tr>

<tr >

A-mode

</td>

Aperture-priority mode – When AEL is active only the aperture dial can be adjusted. When the aperture is manually adjusted the camera automatically makes an offsetting change in the shutter speed. Manually turning the shutter speed dial has no effect whatsoever.

</td>

Same as above

</td>

</tr>

<tr >

M-mode

</td>

Manual mode – AEL has no effect.

</td>

Same as above

</td>

</tr>

</tbody>

</table>

February 18, 2010

I second the suggestion you send the entire lens or just the aperture ring (save shipping costs) to John White.

October 27, 2009

Sunpak PZ5000AF is ideal for F100. It is a powerful hotshoe flash with tilt & swivel head. Among its many features it also has built-in optical trigger so it can be easily used as an off-camera flash.

--Jim C.

July 17, 2009

Chris - As someone else pointed out the charger is a "smart" charger and will not charge unless it is connected to the correct load, i.e., an uncharged (but still good) battery pack. It's likely your NiCad pack has gone bad and needs the cells replaced. I had mine done at NicadLady in California for about $50 just a few years back but I had to fish the wires and do the final solder myself. I can tell you how to avoid that work. Email me for details.

That being said, if you find that you need one, I have the correct Canon charger that I would let go for a very reasonable price. Just email me.

Jim Carden

July 6, 2009

Battery should not be an issue as the F2 in all its guises uses modern 1.5V batteries. You can use alkaline or silver oxide.

However, it is not entirely correct to say that all manual focus Nikons use these modern batteries as the Nikon F, predecessor to the F2, uses the obsolete 1.35V mercury battery.

A fellow named Sover Wong is perhaps the foremost recognized expert in the history, service and repair of Nikon F2. I believe he resides in the UK. A Google search will turn up his contact info.

May 8, 2009

I have replaced two latches on two cameras. One was the hook on the door and the other was the sliding catch in the camera body. Both fixes are easy but the hardest part is drilling the small hole for the screw that holds the metal hook--no drilling is required for replacing the sliding catch. One of the vendors (US Camera?) sells a small drill bit and pin-vise for hand drilling along with the replacement metal hook. Dremel also sells a small set of drill bits for $10 or so. One of them is the right diameter and the Dremel tool can be held in a way to drill at the correct angle. I was not able to use a regular power drill as it could not achieve the correct drill angle. Be patient, follow the instructions carefully and you'll be fine.

--Jim C.

May 8, 2009

Nikon USA (310-414-8107 for West Coast) still carries parts for F4. It's possible you can just unscrew those four screws (looks like it from your pic) and replace that entire contact strip (bus). Nikon USA also stiill services the F4. You can send it to them for a free estimate.

--Jim C.

April 13, 2009

One more thing to note on the FG is that the meter does not really work until the film couner reaches '1'. I read that was a design feature to prevent undue battery drain if someone had it set to A-priority and clicked off a few exposures with the lens cap on while loading film.

April 13, 2009

Another thing for new FG users to note is that the meter does not really work until the film counter gets to '1'. If you aren't aware of this you might think the meter is broken. The film counter resets each time the film back is opened so the meter will act funny each time a new roll of film is loaded.

January 28, 2009

Lots of good responses. I'll try not to be too repetitive.

I used to shoot Canon F1 all the time and I have bought and sold many F1, F1n and New F1. They are great cameras but virtually all of them will need some maintenence or repair. Parts are hard to get and the number of shops willing to work on them is shrinking. In addition, only the New F1 uses a (somewhat) widely available battery so if you are out and about and suddenly need a battery you may not find one easily. I was also around Canon long enough to get an Elan IIe with it's 2CR5 battery (expensive and not readily-available) and inability to use/adapt my FD lenses. That being said Canon film cameras are well-designed, sturdy, reliable, etc.

When it comes to Nikon film cameras I have an embarrassment of riches--see list below and let me know if you are interested in buying :-). I like them because, with a few exceptions, I can interchange the lenses, they use inexpensive and readily-available batteries and, like the Canons, they are well-designed, sturdy, reliable, etc. Part of the fun of owning Nikon film cameras is finding great old lenses at bargain prices.

If you like the manual-focus, manual film-advance and auto-exposure capabilities of the Canon AE-1 I would recommend a Nikon FG or FA. If you don't care aout the autoexposure then look at an FM2 or FM2N--all available for $75-$200. These are better-built than the FM10 and, I believe, will hold their value better. If you want more features I think there is a sweet-spot in today's used market for the Nikon F100. There are F100s available for $200(+-) that are virtually unused. By the time F100s were manuactured, the foam materials used in light seals was more stable and does not turn to a sticky, gummy mess like most (all?) of the earlier cameras. F100 is powered by 4-AA batteries (cheap and available everywhere). With the F100 you can use manual-, as well as autofocus lenses, even G-lenses that have no aperture ring. That means you can start building your inventory of lenses with a migration path forward. When (if) you go digital you can get a less-expensive DX format Nikon and keep using the F100 for backup and for wide-angle shots.

Best of luck,

Jim C. (SP rangefinder / F / F2AS / F3HP / FM2 / F100 / F601 / D300)

December 4, 2008

Since more than one of your lenses are behaving this way it may not be oil on the aperture blades. They wouldn't all bind up at once.

Instead, I suspect the DOF preview lever is in the "illegal" position when you mount the lens. If you activate the DOF preview and then mount a lens you will not be able to change the aperture. To remedy the situation, remove the lens, return the DOF preview lever to the normal position and then re-mount the lens.

I hope that helps.

Jim C.

December 4, 2008

FYI - I had my NiCad pack rebuilt by NikonLady in Calif a year or so ago. It was about $55 but they had never done

one before so I had to partially disassemble it and thread the wires to "show" them how to do it.

I also have an extra "Charger MA" for that NiCad pack if someone wants one at a reasonable cost. It also works on

the NiCad pack for the A-1.

Best of luck,

Jim C.

February 18, 2008

I'm not holding my camera right now to actually verify but if memory serves me correctly the OP can achieve his desired shooting paramters with the following:

1) set auto ISO to 'on' and specify the desired maximum ISO

2) set minimum shutter speed to his desired speed (1/500 or whatever)

3) shoot in A (aperture-priority) mode using the desired f-stop

Depth-of-field will be maintained, as will shutter speed but ISO will vary according to available light.

--Jim C.

February 15, 2008

I believe the warning above by Keith Leonin is somewhat obsolete. There was indeed an issue in the past where some Sigma HSM lenses would not activate their focus motor when the AF-On button on the Nikon body was pressed. FYI--HSM is Sigma's version of Nikon's SWM, aka AF-S.

I know from talking with Sigma Tech Support and my own subsequent experience that updating the firmware in my D200 fixed the problem. If that had not worked Sigma offered to update the firmware in the lens. Updating the lens' firmware requires a roundtrip to a Sigma service center so I opted to update the firmware in my D200 myself. It was very easy (Thank you, Nikon engineering staff) and fixed the problem with no issues or drama of any kind.

If anyone here still suffers from this problem I urge you to take the time to update your camera's firmware. On the D200, anyway, it's a snap.

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