j.l._kennedy

I haven't noticed much complaining going on in this forum, but it is

the only one that I frequent. Where are you seeing this?

I have a Vivitar 150mm VHE enlarging lens which I am told was made by Schneider or Rodenstock. The lens actually does have 'lens made in Germany' stamped on it. Can anyone subtantiate this?

The press just needs to be slightly larger than the print, it doesn't

have to be as large as the mat board. In fact, it doesn't really even

have to be larger than the print. I have a Seal 210 and I mount 16x20

prints on 22x28 mat board in two sections. However, this is not an

issue with the size you are talking about, because I doubt that there

are drymount presses smaller than 8x10.

That's good advice above about checking the temperature of the press.

They can be off quite a bit. You can get temperature indicator

strips made by Seal (I got them at Freestyle) for testing whether the

temperature is correct. They have a wax strip at both ends, one melts

at 200F and the other at 210F. You test until one melts and the other

doesn't at which time you know your press is between 200F and 210F.

However, there can also be wild swings in temperature even if you

don't touch the temperature control knob if the thermostat is bad. So

continue testing 3-4 more times at at least 10-15 minute intervals

even after your indicator strips have you between 200F and 210F. If

the temperature shift you probably need a new thermostat, about $25

from Seal. Seal Products, Inc. 550 Spring St, Naugatuck, CT 06770.

(203) 729-5201.

I don't know either, but I know where to find out. Get the "Film

Developer's Cookbook" by Steve Anchell and I'm sure it will have the

answer.

I'm guessing that just about any equitorial mount made for a telescope

could be fitted with a threaded tripod thingy (can't remember the name

of it) to screw into the bottom of any camera. Probably some of the

manufacturers already make such an accessory. I've personally seen

such an item but don't know what brand it was or if it was custom

made. I doubt that anyone makes an entire equitorial mount

specifically for cameras since there's really no need.

Check out the Canham DLC45. It fits the needs you have described. I

love mine. You probably won't find a used one and if you do it will

cost almost as much as a new one, about $2150.

There is a good chance that you aren't being sniped on eBay.

Hypothetical situation: an item is currently bid up to $100, the

bidding increment is $2.50, another bidder bids $200, the price

immediately goes to $102.50. You come along and bid $105. The price

immediately goes to $107.50 because of the bidder who bid $200. You

bid $150. The price immediately goes to $152.50 for the same reason.

Even if you bid $197.50 in the last 10 seconds, you would still lose

because eBay takes it to the highest bid before displaying the final

closed price. The beauty of the system is that the bidder who was

willing to pay $200 will always win unless someone bids higher than

$200 before the auction closes. I suspect from the price that you

state you are willing to pay for some specific items that you are

simply being outbid, not sniped.

 

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IMO, I think that much of the hostility toward eBay from the "serious"

camera using crowd is due to their anger that they can't get as good

deals as they could before eBay came along and increased market

efficiency exponentially. Its the same way of thinking that makes the

mom and pop shop angry when the Walmart opens up. That, however, is

the free market, and, as technology improves, the trend will only

continue. Without going into an economics lesson, be assured that on

the average everyone will be better off. Individually, those

benefiting from less efficient markets won't be better off.

Seems to me that you might benefit by using a more standardized fixer

than "one handfull of the crystals/1 liter." Kodak F-5 and F-6 both

use 240 grams of Sodium Thiosulfate per liter, and thats WAY more than

a handfull, unless maybe you're Wilt Chamberlain!

I just read in "The Film Developing Cookbook" the following: "The most current research indicates that sodium thoisulfate, the photographer's standby for most of the 20th century, cannot adequately fix modern films or papers. This appears to be due to the increased use of iodide in contemporary films and papers. If an acid fixer is to be used, use only acid 'rapid' fixers based on ammonium thiosulfate". As I have been using the methods recommended in AA's "The Negative" and "The Print" for some time now, this has me concerned about the archival quality of my processing. Any comments?

John Hicks is correct. If these were flash pictures it is nearly

assured that this is the problem. A focal plane shutter varies

shutter speed by changing how closely the first shutter curtain

follows the second shutter curtain across the film. The closer the

first follows the second, the faster the shutter speed. Most people

don't realize that with a focal plane shutter at the faster shutter

speeds the film is not all exposed at the same instant. Since the

light of a flash unit is many times faster (about 1/10,000 of a

second) than the fastest shutter speed, only the sliver of film

showing at the time the flash pops will be exposed. For most focal

plane shutters 1/60th of a second is the fastest shutter speed at

which the film is completely exposed all at the same instant, thus it

is used as the "flash sync" speed, although slower shutter speeds

work just fine also. Those of us who use LF and MF cameras with leaf

shutters don't have this problem (although I never use a flash!)

because leaf shutters at any shutter speed have an instant at which

the entire film is exposed. Good luck with your class.

I saw this URL "http://www.vestdata.no/~taase/Rollei.html" in many

"what Rollei do I have?" threads in the archives but it doesn't work

anymore. Anyone have an updated URL?

If I was leary about buying used equipment I wouldn't own about 90% of

the equipment I have! All of us poor but serious photographers are

greatly blessed by those rich dabblers who see an Ansel Adams exhibit,

run out the next day and buy $10,000 of LF equipment, can't reproduce

AA within 2 weeks, don't touch the equipment for 2 years, and finally

put it in the Recycler or the Pennysaver and sell it for 20 cents on

the dollar (to me). It's almost unfortunate for guys like me that

eBay was invented because it introduces more efficiency in the

marketplace and the seller gets better prices. Oh well!

Is there anywhere that I can get a not too technical description different LF lense types? I would like to get a good general knowledge of different types of lenses, their advantages and disadvantages, the difference between a infinity apochromatic and a flat-field apochromatic, what's an angulon, etc. etc.

I 2nd Doremus Scudder's response. Well said.

Anybody know of a good listing of developers and their specific characteristics? I've taken the advice of many and stuck with a film and developer (tri-x and HC110) until I got consistent results (10 years) but am thinking of widening my horizons! I don't, however, see myself as one of those guys who posts things like "I use FP4 with XTOL for this and microdol with t-max for that, except when there's a full moon in which case I yada, yada, yada ..." I just don't have time for all that testing and comparing. Therefore, I'm trying to take a considered approach to my next film and/or developer choice. Thanks.

It's my understanding (perhaps others will confirm) that if you cut

the viewing hole the same size as the negative, then the distance you

hold it from your eye will correspond to a lens of that focal length.

For example, it you hold it 150mm from your eye it will be the same

field of view as a 150mm lens. I've also heard of attaching a string

to the corner of your viewing card and tying knots in the string at

the various distances for which you have lenses. I've never tried

this because I already feel conspiciuos enough with a LF camera and

related paraphanalia!

Bob: I'll take one of each! HarHarHar.

If you are talking about a significant amount of film, test a few

rolls and see what happens. If you are talking about a few rolls,

what would be the point? By the time you tested for the correct ASA,

you would be out of film! I certainly wouldn't take any chances using

it on a trip to Yosemite!!

Does anyone know anything about the Schneider-Kreuznach Xenar f4.5 150mm enlarging lens. Aperature goes to f32. S/N is 8850971. It appears to be uncoated but I'm not sure. There are two odd things about it. First, although it is for a 39mm lensboard opening, the threads appear to be different than standard because it won't thread more than about 1/2 turn into my new Saunders enlarger 39mm lensboard. Second, it has an outside knurled ring for changing aperature separated with about an 1/8th inch gap from the inside threaded ring for filters. By the way, it is completely metal and rather heavy for its size. Doesn't appear to have any plastic parts.

 

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I am thinking of buying an El-Nikkor but would hate to do so and then find out the the Scheider was an absolutely wonderful piece of glass!

Does anyone know why there is so much price difference between the El-Nikkor 135mm (about $375-$400) and the 150mm (around $800)?