allen_d.

I use the EOS system and though I don't do a lot of online orders, I get very few problems (so far none) with the process. Send me an email if you'd like to see one of my galleries in action. Like you said, you have to not mind a bit of coding to personalize the galleries and the work to maintain them.

Albums Inc has the "Digtal Magazine Covers" from Leather Album Designs. Although the albums are not leather, they are not expensive at around $20. It comes in a multitude of sizes. I know it's probably overboard, but I affix 2 pages together with adhesive spray to create a more custom album. The pages are studier then, too.<div></div>

It's been a few months since I shot in a church, been all outdoors this spring. I suppose I'll remember why I got the 70-200 this month with a couple church weddings coming. Thanks guys.

So I'm thinking about selling my 70-200IS to purchase the new 85 1.2L Mark II.

I find that I'm using my 85 1.8 on the 5D way more than the 70-200 and lovin'

it. I could probably use the extra half (or is that quarter) stop plus that

pretty red stripe around the end of the lens!! I guess I'm starting to see

the light (excuse the pun) of you prime shooters. Anyone had a chance to

compare the 2 85 L's yet? Let me know if you think it's worth the extra $800

or so.

In camera raw, try these settings to simulate this look:

<br><br>

WB: 6000, -10<br>

Exp: adjust to your needs<br>

Shadows: 10<br>

Brightness: 70 (may need to adjust)<br>

Contrast: 100<br>

Saturation: -30

I use the R800 on Verbatim disks and have yet to have one smudge. They do require a little more dry time than a print, and I usually spray the printed side with a protective spray to prevent minor scratches. Make sure you get inkjet printables as there are thermal printable disks that may not work well with the R800.

I use the 580ex on a 5D with the CP-E3 powerpack. In an 8 hour wedding, I haven't had to change the batteries once, yet. Recycle times for anything less than full power are easily under 1 second. Full power takes right at 1 second. Oh, and using NiMh Power2000's, my experience with energizers is not as good as these.

I've recently started this myself. If you have a specific setup and limit the session to that pose only (read: only a few proofs) for that price or certain packages, I think it will work. It will limit the amount of time you have to put into it and increase your exposure. Also makes it easier for your client to see a pose and want it, versus just seeing your work and saying "yeah, one of these days I need to get some pictures done." And if they don't like the pose, they will probably check back for your next pose. You could even create emails that people can sign up for to automatically get your next special via email. I think as long as you keep restrictions (i.e. no 2 hour sessions with 100 proofs to edit) for the special pricing in place, it won't be something you regret and will add incremental sales and exposure.

Based on your previous work, you should shoot for what it cost to produce whatever albums they want plus a little for yourself. Do you really think $2500 for your second wedding is reasonable?? and for a friend?? I'd suggest a fraction of that. Whatever happened to starting small and WORKING your way up with experience? Everyone wants to START at the TOP these days and then be the next Dennis Reggie, (insert famous wedding photog here), etc.. maybe I'm just old fashioned.

As far as a fire proof option, I have a safe made by Sentry that claims to have a higher heat resistance for lower tolerant digital media. They are specifically for disks, tapes, and you could throw an external hard drive in there as well. However, they cost a little more than a regular safe for a much smaller size.

I don't see what the problem is if the images are in proofing galleries and not galleries showing your work. Password protected sites are a better idea - I simply created another website domain altogether so no one will know it's there except the person I give the web address to. It also helps monitor traffic to your own site better.

Those look great! Why not put the pears/pricing on one side and the B/W on the other, just a thought. Just curious, if you don't mind sharing, but about how much does something like this cost?

Use multiple flashes, easier if they are wireless. Use one on camera and either put a diffuser on it or bounce it off a side wall, and have the other point straight up to the ceiling, no diffuser. Set your speed to at least 125 and don't shoot wide open and all room light will be eliminated.

You might just need more RAM for your computer. I found when I upgraded to CS2 my working through raw files started to slow somewhat even though the workflow was much better, and I had 1GB of ram. I upped it to 3GB and things are much quicker now - like no waiting. The combo of Adobe bridge and CS2 requires mucho memory.

I saw their albums at ImagingUSA and they were nice. Also check out Art leather's Cache album. You send in the prints and they flush mount a 10 page 10x10 album for just over $100!

Simple answer, yes, it would be overkill. I have good results with 1 off camera and 1 on camera flash (580's).

The picture style doesn't matter if you shoot in raw. You could even set it to black and white and once you go into ACR, it acts like the picture style never existed and reverts back to the raw color image. The styles mainly help for in camera viewing to "see" what the image would look like with certain settings.

Ok, what about having 2 strobes (not 580's) and - I'm assuming you're using a wireless triggering system - set each to a different channel, so when you change settings on your camera, just flip the switch to the strobe with the correct corresponding power output.

Hi Ben,

I've been working with ETTL and have had relative success with it. I've also been wrestling with the how to be a little more "creative" with lighting at receptions. There are so many factors to consider, ease of use, portability, and reliability, I think are the main issues. As far as reliability, my experience shows that ETTL II with the 580 as master is fairly reliable, even with obstacles. It uses a pre fire flash signal which is not easily broken from line of sight versus the st-e2 with infrared.

 

As far as ratios go, your best bet in what you are trying to accomplish is to set your off camera flash to C for background lighting. This fills your background, but with your camera settings in mind so as not to overexpose. I don't think ratios are appropriate for ceiling bounce and you should be able to control flash exposure by dialing it in as normal and that will basically be your ratio - if that makes any sense. (In case that didn't, your background fill will be a constant for the set aperture, but dialing your main, to say -2, will give you an approx. 1:2 ratio - here's where you'll have to experiment for a given room) As long as your camera meters something neutral for the flash, you should have fairly consistent results. I do use a stofen always on camera (which also lessens the amount I dial down, often none), but you would leave the off camera flash bare, pointed to the ceiling, or where ever.

Hope this helps.

Just thought I'd post a follow up to this for future reference. Sent it in to Canon and for about $200USD, they replaced the shutter and all is well again.

At the ImageingUSA convention they said it's not copying, it's emulating! And the pros there were showing how they "emulate" each other!

I'm probably closer to your estimate than the 3-4 hours and I usually end up culling 900-1000 images to about 400. (I personally think we overwhelm our clients with too many images sometimes) I probably put way too much time into it, but I average 1 wedding per month right now so I have plenty of time. My problem is the amount of other stuff going on related to a "business" (plus having a family, among other things!) often interferes with my workflow, slowing me way down. CS2 has seriously improved my workflow however (for raw files), so if you're still on CS, suggest you upgrade.

Yes the 20D is particularly loud in a quiet church.

Yes, I definitely agree with C Jo in that situation. Outdoor groups in bright situations, over 10 ft, at f8 are definately out for the 580. I've shot groups (small, parties of 8-10) indoors at f4 with a pair of 580s at about 15ft that works well. So far most of my group shots(and general success with the 580) have been indoors. My most recent outdoor groups with the 580's were underexposed by 1-1.5 stops, which is my main reason for the Quantum.

Spot meter their faces? Really, if you do err, err on the side of the tux. I think if the tux goes black, but the brides dress looks good, you'll be ok.