ethan_melad

i am borrowing this lens from a co-worker, and just attempted to mount it on a toyo lens

board. after tightening the lens down, i realized it was not sitting flush to the board. it turns

out there is a small flat top screw on the rear of the lens that sits higher than the surface. i

dont have a small screwdriver with me, so i cant check whetherthe screw could just be

tightened down, but it looks from the edge that it has a head and would not sink into the

leans. anyone have any experience with this lens? seen this before?

thanks

e

ive got both an electro 35 and a 35RC. When they work, I like the yashica better - its sharper

and seems like a more accurate meter - but neither of them are reliable. since the electro 35

uses an obsolete battery its a little tough to retrofit. and the shutter on my 35RC has been

consistantly sticky.

this alex webb show just came to boston @ MassArt...some of it was really fantastic. then

again, some of it was not. but thats how it goes.

"an ideal...is only a reflection of one's insecurities"

i dont even know how to respond to this...i think that there absolutely has to be a reason

for taking every picture. are you saying that this drive to fulfill ones ideas, to realize an

artistic vision is arrogant and futile? ideals are not necessarily as you define; this definition

is from websters: 'Existing in idea or thought; conceptional; intellectual; mental.'

i, for one, often have a relatively concrete conceptual foundation for my work before i

shoot it - i am thus working toward an ideal realization of this idea.

this may sound condescending, but i think that much of the photography shown in

galleries and museums (especially MOMA) is more cerebral, conceptual, and abstract than

most viewers are used to. theres often a reason - whether its an art historical reference,

philosophy, etc - why a picture seems to have "no composition, no story, no technique." i

definitely dont mean to say that all of this work is worthwhile and worthy of high praise,

(see Timothy Greenfield-Sanders' terrible recent photos of porn stars) but that it might

warrant more thought and consideration than just the usual technical issues.

interesting. i just assumed that a back for a holga would use a more common film type

than the 80's. anyway, good to know.

im assuming the holga back uses standard pack films and not 4x5..i might be wrong..

665 is ASA100 and gives you a negative as well as a print. 667 is ASA3000, but youll have

to have a decent amount of light or a flash with a holga..i believe they use a shutter speed

around 1/60-1/125 which is far too fast for nighttime without flash. you could pull the

spring out of the shutter and make a bulb exposure every time; use a tripod and you

might not need a flash but youll also get movement from holing the shutter button down.

i think that your best bets would be to either save for an f100 upgrade or sell the lens you

got and buy a new (or newer) nikkor 105 micro. however, i'm not convinced that its worth

buying a new body for a cheap third party lens - the price of another decent body would

most likely be equal or more than the difference between the lens you have and the cost of

a nikkor 105.

with the d70 i really dont think you'll see a whole lot of difference in quality between the

kit lens and a 50 f1.8 - if anything i like the zoom a little better. and dont forget that a

50mm lens on a d70 will turn into 75-ish mm. for a faster lens, id go for the 50 f1.4

rather than the 1.8..its noticeably sharper and that half stop extra is key.

i cant read german, but it almost looks like the black paint has just been polished

off..except for the film guides..since theyre silver to start with..

why get a vivitar or tokina for $200+ when you can get a nikkor 60 micro for less than

$300 used..or get an older nikkor 55 micro for even less.

i would recommend either nikon or pentax. older spotmatics and then the k-series are

great, and nikon f-series are even better. im always wary of the electronically controlled

pentax m-series and virtually any minolta; ive never been a fan of minoltas lenses and ive

seen their meters fall way off over time.

>Manual Nikon Lens can be used with newer Canon DSLR using an adapter

while this may technically be possible, its not going to be economically adventageous or

easy to do...and why bother anyway?

it may also be easier to do what you want in the printing process...

try developing in hot developer, toning, print-bleach-tone multiple times w/

different toner types, manipulating (crumpling, etc) paper before printing, using liquid

light...

and dont forget about taking some fine sandpaper to the neg.

i really dont think that using a 1.35v wein cell will cause any noticeable differences...ive

never known the meter in those cameras to be that great anyway.

no way. iv'e shot both, but got rid of the 1.8 a long time ago. the f1.4 always blows the 1.8

away.

i'm a big fan of f3's. theyve never given me any trouble, shutter is consistant, and if you

get stuck without a battery you can still pop the shutter mechanically.

for auto exposure you might want to look at an FA..their electronics are sometimes a little

sketchy, but when they work they work really well.

after a quick search i couldnt find anything definitive, but i bet its similar to, if not the

same as the kr-5. its center-weighted, about 70/30.

of those lenses i'd go for the tamron. regardless of their comparative quality to pro lenses,

the difference between a 1:2 and 1:4 macro is significant. thus, rule out the mikkor.

theres no reason why the lens would be in focus one minute and out of focus the

next..there must be an autofocus error. try manually focusing. also, autofocus systems

often get confused if youre shooting i white object or piece of paper (or any relatively solid

color) - it helps to have something with more lines or planar diferences.

as great as the GR1 is, id look around for a used or backstock model. that sounds like too

much to pay for a repair unless they warranty the repair for at least a year. and i think that

to get even $50 is unlikely as a parts camera.