radu_diaconu

here is a picture. around 2.8 from - I hope it can provide some info. I love this lens on my 1DII.

Performance is very good around F2 and on I usually use it wide open for night time shooting. I'll try to post some pics.<div></div>

Sorry, I will be using this with a Macbook Pro 15inch.

Thnks.

Hi,

I have read the specs concerning these two monitors and have heard great things

for both.

What i'm looking to know (actually I really want the Apple)is which one is

really the best after calibration (does the Apple calibrate as well as the NEC?)

and would you rather work with the standard format of the panoramic of the apple?

Thank you.

Radu D.

Thanks,

What about the printing issue - if I calibrate my monitor and my printer will my pictures come out decent?

At least, as good as what I see on the screen.

Regards,

Radu D.

Hi,

I'm currently using a laptop for my photography work (P4, 512MB of Ram,

2.16Ghz)using lightroom or DPP for my 1DMakII images.

I'm used to printing my images at my University where we have calibrated Lacie

Screens with Epson 4800 and 9800 printers. I've come to realize that my images

require no adjustments once uploaded on the G5 with Lacie screen and printed on

the Epson scanners.

Now, I'm wondering, If I buy a printer (thinking about the Canon Pro9000 or

9500) and calibrate my printer and my screen, will I get decent results or is

calibrating a laptop screen usually useless?

Thank you.

Radu D.

I reread your last post and concerning the focusing technique, I use the

* button (CF.4) and it is much easier to focus and shoot, you have virtually no shutter lag. The model usually stays put for a few seconds at the end of the walk, so you can snap a few without changing focus.

You could also use panning, it gives a cool effect.<div></div>

Hi,

I've shot a fashion show a few weeks ago, I used my 1DMII with 28 1.8, that's it. I shot on Av and spot metered on the face - yes I know, the highlight on the face will make the background go dark, but that's exactly the result I was looking for.

Here are some examples - btw I shot at f.2.8 to 4.5 most of the time to get adequate depth of field on the model's face.

Regards,

Radu D.<div></div>

Thank you.

I appreciate it.

Hi,

Quick question on Lightroom: Does anyone know how to save the settings when

you develop a picture? In DPP, you can save them as a separate file and

reapply the changes to multiple picture.

I can't seem to find this in Lightroom (I want to continue using it, but I

need the changes to be effective on the pictures I edit)

If anybody can help...please do.

Regards,

Radu D>

I just realized I have written the word "nice" five times in a couple of lines only.

Wow, that's not nice at all.

Hi,

funny, I just got mine on monday, after a lot of reading and a lot of questions.

I am very happy with mine on a 1DII, the handling is nice, although the manual focus ring is not as well damped as my 24-70L, but still very nice (I autofocus most of the time).

The bokeh is very nice, really creamy and smooth.

The biggest plus for me is the 1.8 aperture, which is really nice on my 1DII and you can isolate any point of a picture that you like.

Very nice lens, very happy with it.

PS: I have the Nikon 28 2.8AIS and it is a wonderful lens, one of the best I have tried.

Regards,

Radu D.<div></div>

Hi,

I'm about to buy a 90mm lens for my 4x5 Speed Graphic. I just wanted to know,

for those of you that use a 90mm lens on your speed graphic, which one are you

using and why?

Thanks again.

Radu D.

Hi,

13 minutes is way too much. I use around 8-9minutes at 20C and 7minutes at 22-24C.

Cut back on your development (P.S. my times are for 250EI, but 200is close enough - maybe cut back by a 30sec)time.

Regards,

Radu D.

digitaltruth.com

Paul,

Do not forget that when you are photographing, you are focusing only a single plane of the image. I explain; take a picture, you have the foreground, the background and all that composition that stands in the middle. When you focus your image, you are focusing exactly and precisely on only one of these planes, the rest will be, like other said, curvature of field and circle of confusion (that's why your picture at F.22 focused at infinity looks sharper, or more sharp at infinity than the ones focused on "planes" that are relatively closer to you.

Depth of Field is only an illusion, and you can never get sharp results over the entire field, precisely because you are focusing on a 2D plane.

Hope this helps.

Radu D.

Sorry,

I can't seem to post a picture.

Once sec.

Jeffery,

I just received my Canon 1D Mark II a few weeks ago and have a few thoughts about the 45 point autofocus.

On normal subjects that are not moving and that are not to crowed with other surrounding objects, the 45 points do well (accurately and fast) to choose the subject.

On the other hand, the selected focus point - center or any other of the 45 points, will always give the results you are looking for, that is to have the subject which you require to be sharp.

Second, on moving subjects and in Ai Servo (continous tracking), the 45 points overall do well, but sometimes, the center does better, this depends on the subject matter.

I have covered sports, dancing competitions, night club shots, track and field, swimming, diving, volleybal, handball..,etc and I have been very pleased the Canon's autofocus system, but sometimes you have to know which point to choose in order to achieve the best possible focus.

Heres is a link that could help you: http://www.photoworkshop.com/canon/EOS_Digital.pdf

Good luck,

I'm attaching a pic to give you the idea of what the Mark II can do (Canon 1V also, I imagine).

Regards,

Radu D.

Hi,

From Canon 1D Mark II Manual: "When the battery is fully rechared, the lamp will blink quickly (twice per sec.)"

Hope it this helps.

Radu D>

Alexandru,

One last thing. I did click CTRL+A and selected them all and then clicked the save button.

What I'm trying to say, in my case, is that it will still pop a window for every file and ask you to save that specific file, so in the end, it comes back to saving each one individually.

I'm still new to digital photography, so just trying to learn what the best method is, but thanks for you feedback and comments.

Regards,

Radu D.

Alexandru,

Sorry, I must be expressing myself very poorly.

You are right, you don't have to save AS, you can only save normally.

But, if you don't add a recipe and only save the file originaly, then you must do it one by one (that's what I seem to be doing right now...but maybe I'm wrong).

Because if you want to discard them from the card, and only want them as RAW, not TIFF, then it's the only way to do it - without wanting to add any recipe - (or so I have found).

Regards,

Radu D.

Thanks I got it.

When you finish with your image, you just have to click: add recipe and save AS....

It will save your file as a RAW file and still give the RAW adjustements for next time.

The only downside is that you can't batch process.

Anyway,

Thanks to all of you.

Radu D.