cd_k
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Posts posted by cd_k
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I had a similar problem with my 17-35/2,8 AFS ED-IF lens a while ago and I was the one
posted the question on the forum.
http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00GzwX
It turned out that the zoom focus gear was worn out (I got the lens second hand). I sent
the lens to Nikon Camera Service in Morton Grove, IL. (847) 470-0678. They replaced the
part and did a complete CLA of the lens. The lens has been working perfectly ever since.
The repair bill was around $350.
Since your lens is a new one, you should really send the lens back to Nikon and have it
check out and adjusted.
Hope this helps.
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Will an Elmarit 19/2.8 R lens, 2nd Version with 3-CAM non-ROM fit on Leica SL body? Thanks for your
help!
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I am looking for noise reduction software. I have narrowed down to three candidates: NeatImage, Noise
Ninja and Noiseware. I use Nikon D200 and Canon G9 for digital captures but I still scan large amount of
films (35mm and 6x6) with a Nikon 9000 scanner. From what I have read, NeatImage, Noise Ninja and
Noiseware will all do well in digital captures. But I don?t know if any one is particular good for processing
scanned tif images. Your help and comments are very appreciated. Thanks!
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Yes, Hasselblad Projector PCP80 will be able to project 6 x 4.5 slides. You can get 6 x 4.5
slide mount, made by Gepe, here in US.
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If you enjoy slide projection, this is the best machine available, period. As for the lens, you
may want to check here (photo.net), KEH, and E-Bay. They do come up from time to time,
but you have to be patient. As for your third option of projecting via DLP, the 6x6 slide
project is far superior than DLP projection - there is just no comparison.
Good luck.
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Xinyang,
The GESM2702 you mentioned is for 6 by 7 slides and won't be able to fit into the slide tray of your PCP 80.
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Ian,
Many thanks for your help. I live in Washington DC. I will try your suggestion by contacting
Ricoh Service Dept directly.
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Thanks, Godfrey. I sent you off-line e-mail regarding the Panasonic L1.
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I have been using the Ricoh GR1 for many years as a travel P&S. Really love it...
Recently it starts to have some problems, such as loud winding noise and malfunction of the flash. Could
anyone help to recommend someone who will service and repair GRI? Many thanks.
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Is the Summilux-D 25mm f/1.4 ASPH available anywhere in US?
Thanks.
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Not what I experienced either. The Sonnar is sharp enough that I have used it wide open
without any problem.
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Paul, Glad to see you take the plunge of accruing the M5 - an excellent move and you
won't regret it. I have been using M3, M5 and M6 for years. The M5 is by far a better
'user.' To fully appreciate an M5, I would recommend using it alone. IMHO, M5 doesn't mix
with other Ms, especially the M6. As far as many negative comments about the M5, I would
suspect that those users compared M5 with M6 side by side and shoot only few rolls of
film with the M5. The size and the weight of M5 feel much better than M6 for extended
shooting IMHO. As a user, the M5 fits naturally for both shooting styles of shutter priority
or aperture priority, whereas M6 is mostly suited for shutter priority shooting style. The
shutter on M5 sounded differently than that of M3 and M6, but not noisier. In fact, in
lower speeds, M5 is much quieter than other Ms. Enjoy your M5!
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I have been using a Nikon D200 for a short while. The results are beautiful using 28/2.8 and
105/2.5 Ais lenses. But compared with the scanned images (Nikon 9000ED) taken by
Hasselblad medium format, I much prefer the medium format images.
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Don:
If you compare the winding feel of M5 to classical M, the M5 does not wind as smooth as classical M, partly because the M5 needs to trigger the meter arm during the wind. This is just part of the mechanism of M5 and you shouldn't worry too much.
I have been using a M5 with late serial number, CLAed by Sherry, for the past ten years. No problems.
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John,
Thanks for the sending the Form! I finally sent the rebate package to Nikon as tomorrow
(8/31) is the deadline.
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Does anyone know where I can download the Nikon Rebate Form, which ended July 31, 06. I mail-ordered
an 70-200ED-AFS VR lens (eligible for $100 rebate) in mid July form Calumet but I didn't receive the
Nikon Rebate Form. Thanks for your help!
BTW, I really enjoy the lens. It is one of the best Nikkor lenses that I ever used.
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Thank you, Shun and Edward, for your input. The lens has never been dropped or damaged.
I notice that it will focus passing the infinity mark. The lens works fine with distance scale up
to 10 ft at all focal lengths. But it clearly didn�t focus correctly beyond 10 ft on 35mm setting
in both manual and auto focus modes. I�m just wondering if anyone had similar problems.
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I have a 17-35 ED-IF AFS lens that develop a focus problem. The lens won�t auto focus to infinity from
the 28 to 35 focal lengths on my F5. When I manual focus on the F3, it is also out of line at the infinity
setting. Could you recommend a repair shop? I live in Washington DC area. Many thanks.
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I use a Rolleiflex 3.5F and a Hasselblad 503 MF systems. I mount slides with Gepe anti-
Newton glass mounts then project with a Hasselblad projector. The results are the best by a
huge margin compared with 35mm projection or digital images. For slides that I want to
scan, I use a Nikon FH-869M holder that is designed for 645, 66 and 67 mounted slides on
Nikon 9000ED scanner.
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I used both current versions of the Elmar and Summicron. They have different optical
signatures. For f-stop between 5.6 and 8, I personally prefer the Elmar look. But Summicron
has better performance at 2.8 and 4, by a margin. From size and user perspectives, the
Elmar, with the attached hood, is almost the same size as the Summicron, and the
Summicron is much easier to focus and change f stops, at least for me. If this is the only
50mm lens you are going to have, go with the Summicron.
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Godfrey,
I look forward to your input on the Sony R1, as I have always enjoyed your responses. While I
still use film cameras (including your Hasselblad 903), I am looking for a digital travel canera.
So far, the Sony R1 and Panosonic LX1 interested me the most. Thanks.
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I have used both but sold the G1. The G2 is a much better camera, more reliable focus and
lower motor noise. Go with the G2.
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I have had the G2 with 21, 28, 35, 45, and 90 lenses for seven years. It is truly a great
system, particularly for travel and family vacation uses. The body is very well built and all
the electronics are very reliable. The G lenses are among the best for 35mm format in
their respective focal lengths. The G lenses render clear and crisp image with a beautiful
blue tone. For landscaping images, I prefer the G lenses to Leica M lenses. But of course,
this is just my own personal preference. I also like the 35/2 lens, which has the same
optical formula as the Leica pre-ASPH 35/2. Although there are many criticisms
regarding dim view finder, shutter noise, and focus reliabilities among Leica users, I felt
most of them came from users who really didn�t have extended real experience using the
G2.
Having said that, the real problem for G2 is that it is a dead system. Since Contax is out of
the photo business, the G2 lenses won�t even have a digital future, unlike Nikon manual
focus lenses that can be used in Nikon DSLR. If you are a true film believer, G2 will fit your
needs.
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I have a Hasselblad PCP80 and it is worth every penny I spent. I really enjoy every single time I use it. The quality is better than 35mm.
Which Nikon AF body is "best" for using MF lenses?
in Nikon
Posted
I agreed with the above post - F3HP will be your best choice for MF lens. I do not like to use
MF lenses on AF bodies, either. It is too much of a compromise to get accurate focus. But it
you must get an AF body, then F100 is a better choice. I still use F3 and F5 for slide films.
Cheers.