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cd_k

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Posts posted by cd_k

  1. <p>It's best to call Sherry rather than e-mail. I have had few lens serviced by her over the years. She has always done an excellent job. Her turn-around time is about 3 weeks. I just had an 35 Summicron R lens CLAed by her three weeks ago. Expect to pay about $150 per lens. <br>

    DAG will respond e-mail rather quickly. But he is much busier with digital Ms (Sherry doesn't service M8/M9) and his average turn-around time is about at least 4-6 weeks. But DAG does a perfect job and it's worth the wait. DAG's price is about the same as Sherry's.<br>

    Hope this helps!</p>

  2. <p>If you're not that much into the add-on EVF, the X1 is not a bad camera to have. I felt the resolution is sufficient as is. I have mine with me all the time and it certain served it's purpose. </p>

    <p> </p>

  3. <p>I have been using Leica X1 for some time now and I really like the image quality of the lens. The camera really does everything well except the autofocus is a bit slow (but very accurate). I also have the Sony NEX 5N/7, and the Ricoh GXR 28/50 lens modules. Leica X1/X2 is a much simpler and easier camera to operate. If 35mm focal length is not a problem for you, I would highly recommend the X2. Of course, you can wait for the up-coming Sony RX-1. But IMHO, RX-1's asking price is too high. </p>
  4. <p>I have had my G2 with a set of lenses for over 14 years now and I am not selling mine. The battery shouldn't be a problem at all. One set of fresh battery should run you about 30 rolls. As for the frame accuracy, I have not notice it for most of my use, nor on the over exposure. You do need to practice using it to be more comfortable with it. IMHO, the Contax G glasses are the best for any film camera. I'm keeping mine as long as I can buy film. <br>

    Give it a try and you will like it.</p>

     

  5. <p>I sold my F5 shortly after I got an F6. While F5 is really a very reliable workhorse, F6 is just a better machine in every way. It's lighter, quieter, smoother, faster, and more refined. If cost is not an issue, go for the best, F6, as this be may the 'last' film body that you would ever buy. As for the cost, the F6 is about $1200 - $1500, and F5 goes for $400 to $600. </p>
  6. <p>I have used both Leica and Nikon systems. The Nikon 70-200 VR and 105/2.5 lenses are on par with Leica lenses you mentioned. You will not gain very much if anything by switching. If you really want 'better' performance lenses, you may try the Zeiss ZF 35/2 and 50/2 Macro as they are better than Nikon's 35 and 50 lenses. </p>
  7. <p>I have used both Leica and Nikon systems. The Nikon 70-200 VR and 105/2.5 lenses are on par with Leica lenses you mentioned. You will not gain very much if anything by switching. If you really want 'better' performance lenses, you may try the Zeiss ZF 35/2 and 50/2 Macro as they are better than Nikon's 35 and 50 lenses. </p>
  8. <p>I am in total agreement with what Alan wrote earlier about the Elmar-M 50. I have owned and used more than few Leica M 50 lenses. IMHO, almost all the Leica M 50mm lenses are excellent performers. But the Elmar-M 50 (current version) is really special. If you use this lens at around f5.6 with good lighting conditions, the images are most beautifully rendered. It is hard to explain but with unique classic Leica characteristics. This is partly due to the Elmar design, a modified Tessar. To me, the Elmar-M is a perfect travel lens. But if you intend to use the lens for open f stop, Summicron will be a better choice. I have not used the newer Summarit-M 50 so I couldn't really comment on it.</p>

    <p>Kind regards,</p>

  9. <p>I still project every roll that I shoot. To me, this is the best part of shooting slide film. Even though digital images are becoming the norm these days, digital projection cannot match the quality of slide projection. <br>

    If you get a chance to get into MF film projection, it is a different world in itself. It's that good.</p>

  10. <p>I got into 4/3 system almost two years ago when I purchased an Panasonic L1 with Leica 14-50, and 25/1,4, and Olympus ZD 50/2 lenes as a travel system. What I really like 4/3 system is the performance of these lenses. But I have been waiting for a long time to add an Olympus body. Like you I looked at E30/E600 and also hoped that Olympus will update the E3.</p>

    <p>Last month, I got an E3 instead. I am very happy with the performance of the E-3 knowing the limitations of the 4/3 system. I used it in the snowy weather with 12-60SWM lens last week without any worries. One thing I would say is that the E-3 is NOT an old camera. I say this with a qualification that I compared the camera performances and image qualities with the E3 and my Nikon D700. As a pro or semi-pro body, the E3 is as capable as the Nikon. With good lighting, images produced by E3 using Leica and Olympus lenses are as good, if not better than, those from D700. But in low light, Nikon wins by a very big margin.</p>

    <p>I would highly recommend E3. To me, it is a perfect go-everywhere camera for travel photography. I actually regret not getting it sooner.</p>

    <p>Kind regards,</p>

  11. <p>I have both lenses and use them on D700 and F3/F6. I really like 17-35/2.8 zoom - it does everything well. In terms of general performance, the 28/2.8 Ais may be slightly better, particularly in close-up, and on film. With D700, if you are using Nikon NX2, the lens correction software will made the zoom as good as the 28mm Ais. For me personally, I use the zoom a lot more often because of the zoom range and auto focus. But the 28mm/2.8 Ais is a very special lens and I will not sell mine as long as I use Nikon system.<br>

    <br /> Hope this helps!</p>

  12. <p>I wouldn't say that Leica R lenses are 'not as good as' M lenses. In many respect, R lenses hold their own compared to M lenses, for example, Elmarit 19R (current version) Elmarit 28R (current version), Elmarit 100R APO, and Elmarit 180R APO are as good as they get. There are excellent zoom lenses too, 28-90/2.8-3,5 and 80-200/4,0 and 70-180/2,8, and 105-280/4,2. R lense are also better build compared to M lenses. </p>

    <p>M lenses, on the other hand, are all about speed, Summiluxes 21M, 24M, 35M, 50M, and 75M have no peers, so are Summicrons 28M, 35M, and 75M.</p>

    <p> </p>

  13. <p>Patrick,</p>

    <p>Thank you and glad to see Ross is still active in his work. I called Harry this morning and his turn-around time is about 10 weeks. I will give Ross a call tomorrow. My most concern is if he has the necessary parts for the repair. Again, thanks for the updated contact info.</p>

    <p>Kind regards,</p>

  14. <p>Tim,</p>

    <p>I can live with 9 weeks turn abound time, but years ago it was close to 6 months. I know that he has the reputation for being one of the very best Rollei repair technicians. Thanks again!</p>

    <p>Kind regards,</p>

  15. <p>Tim,</p>

    <p>Thank you for recommending Harry. His turn-around time was very long years ago. That's why I sent to Ross for CLA. Don't know if his workload has been reduced now. I have read that he has many parts available. In my case, the camera was hit when I slipped and took a fall. The shutter and f-stop dials are both jammed. I think both dials may need to be replaced, at least some internal parts.</p>

    <p>Kind regards, </p>

  16. <p>My Rolleiflex 3,5F needs some repair services for jammed shutter and f-stop dials. Could you please help recommending a repair technician? Years ago, I had my 3,5F serviced by Ross Yerkes in LA but I don't know if he is still providing services. Your help is greatly appreciated Thank you!</p>

    <p>Kind regards,</p>

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