ian m
-
Posts
22 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by ian m
-
-
Please note... I would not recommmend this as an alternative to good technique when taking the photograph. As others have mentioned good technique is still important.
I am using CS2 on a PC... "right clicks" and "alt" etc will vary on a Mac
Ok here goes...
===
* Open your image.
* Have the layer palette open.
* Right click the background [image] layer in the layer palette and duplicate it.
*I usually name the new layer something like "sharpened"
* Use the Unsharp Mask filter to sharpen this new layer [you can be quite agressive to the point of those horrible halos appearing].
* Once applied, then right click that duplicate "sharpened" layer again in the layers palette and select blending options. Near the bottom of the dialogue box that opens in the "Blend if" section you will see two black to white gradient stripes. Using the one called "this layer" bring the arrow at the black end up to about 80, then hold down the alt key and click the arrow you have just moved. This will split it in two. Bring the left half back down to about 30. Then pull the arrow at the white end down to about 170. Again, hold down the alt key and click the arrow to split it. Then move the right hand half of the arrow up to about 205.
* Click ok.
===
What you now have is the sharpened layer only showing through the mid ranges and fading in sharpness as it goes in to the highlights eliminating the halos. The sharpening is also fading towards the darker end, hopefully causing less sharpening of any noise that might be present in the lower end. You also have the ability to fade that layer slightly if it looks too sharp, or to use a layer mask to mask out certain areas that you don't want sharpened.
As with all techniques, the values and increments vary depending on image size / resolution and content. Hopefuly this is a start point for something you might find useful.
-
With digital I find that a lot depends on post processing technique. There is a way to sharpen in Photoshop without causing highlight halos... using the blending properties of a sharpened duplicate layer to only show the mid ranges. I find this very effective for landscape shots or photos with intricate detail that seems to be lost when I shoot digital. It allows you to use unsharp mask more aggressively to achieve sharpness without that "over sharpened" look.
I'll fire up Photoshop and see if I can post again with details.
-
I've used one technique which involves using the Unsharp Mask filter with high Radius settings, something like...<br><br>
------------------<br><br>
Amount: 60 percent<br>
Radius: 60 pixels
<br><br>
...and then playing with the Threshold levels to control the strength of the effect.<br><br>
-----------------<br><br>
The settings all depend on the size / resolution of the image you're working on.
<br>
This is basicly increasing localised contrast which can help to reduce the appearance of haze.
-
There's plenty of searcheable info over at <a href="http://www.hasselbladinfo.com/discus/messages/board-topics.html">http://www.hasselbladinfo.com/discus/messages/board-topics.html</a>, but then there's plenty of info here too in the <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a.tcl?topic_id=35&category=Hasselblad">Hasselblad archives</a>
-
Anyone know where everyone went? Somewhere else? Not online any more?
Things aren't the same.
-
I was trying to find out the exact same thing a few days ago...<br>
<br>
<br><br>
The replies I got came to the conclusion that it was either an Acute Matte screen or made by a third party such as Beattie. Your screen looks similar to mine [white cross that dissappears at certain angles rather than black] and probably not as bright as the newer Acute Matted D screens.
-
well.. I managed to pick up a second 500c/m body with split image screen and rapid winder for less than the prices that I was looking at for the old split screens. It's still not that bright [similar to the other screen] but the split image does help with focusing. Ideally I'd get a split image acute matte D with microprism too.. but the prices on those [even second hand] are unbelievably high!
The older split screen will have to do for now.
Thanks everyone for your help and input.
-
Sorry for multiple photos but I wanted to show the effect that the angle of light has on the cross hair... making it difficult to see as Q.G. de Bakker said.
Acute matt? Any thoughts / confirmation from anyone? Thanks
-
bored yet?<br>
--- one more for luck<br>
<br>
<img src="http://sparror.cubecinema.com/adam/im/other/07.jpg">
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
or maybe not.. there's no "upload image" function on this forum?
-
Thanks Q :]
So it seems I may have a newer screen? If I was to buy a replacement I probably wouldn't be able to keep this one so it would be good if I could identify if its acute matt or the newer D.
Just in case anyone can help I'm going to add a few photos. Hope that's ok -- they're compressed quite small for web but theres a few of them...
-
Hi,
Does anybody know of a resource or online list of screens available
for the 500c/m. I'm trying to identify which one I have in my camera
and also which one would be better to make focusing easier for me. I
think the one in there at the momment is the original, plain with
cross hair. I used a Rolleiflex once and it was so much easier to
focus. i think it had a fresnel screen? If anybody had thoughts on
what screens aid quick focusing the best or knows of an online list
maybe with good photos that would be great. There seem to be so many
types and I don't know which are old or the specifics of any of them.
-
Have you got the long exposure noise compensation switched on? It should be off unless using it otherwise it will slow the frame rate of non long exposure shots.
-
i've often found that working in photoshop and sharpening as part of post processing is better than in camera. this also allows me more control to sharpen [usm] the image and then zoom in on selected areas [ie overly bright catch lights in eyes] and use the history brush tool to revert them to their previous state. of course this is only relevant if you're using photoshop.
-
Hi,
Can anybody tell me the difference between the software that comes
with the Nikon D70 in the U.S.A. and the U.K.? I guess I'm looking for
two replies here from people who have purchased either side of the
pond... or anyone who is lucky enough to have purchased two [one in
each country]!
Also if anyone knows if the battery charger supplied in the U.S.A. is
dual voltage [110 / 240 ?] your knowledge and help would be much
appreciated.
Thanks,
I.M.
Lacie 22blueIV and monaco optix xr pro help
in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing
Posted
Hi Zee,
I also have a Mitsubishi DiamondPro 2070 SB and am looking to invest in a new calibration device. Do you mind if I ask what you're using to calibrate yours and if you're happy with it? Is it the Monaco Optix XR Pro that you're using? That's the one that all the advice I've found seems to recommend but I'm trying to decide wether to spend the extra $ to get the "Pro" version is necessary or if I should be considering another make (perhaps Spyder) too.
Many thanks for any advice / help you can offer.