jay_chartwell
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Posts posted by jay_chartwell
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<p>Thank you, Jeff - Do you mean a folder for each day? Wouldn't that create a lot of folders - a folder for each day I shoot?<br>
<br />And do I have LR rename the images as they are imported?</p>
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<p>"...folders for each date."<br>
<br />What date period? If you mean each day, wouldn't that create a lot of folders - a folder for each day I shoot?</p>
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<p>Hi! O.P. here - I'm finally getting around to starting this project.<br /><br />(Thank you to all who contributed your very useful replies).<br /><br />I've downloaded Lightroom and gone through some of the tutorials.<br /><br />To get started, I have a specific question:<br /><br />One or more persons posted above suggested I get the images into folders before using Lightroom.<br /><br />If I do that, I would have to rename those images that have the same filename - i.e. sometimes when I download images <br />from my camera's card, the filenames start over with "DSC_0001.jpg" creating duplicate names.<br /><br />So, do I rename the duplicates manually while sorting to folders<br /><br />OR<br /><br />can I use Lightroom and its renaming function instead?</p>
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<p>Thanks for all your responses - I'm just now getting around to it and I wanted to know if jAlbum would still be better than using a WordPress plugin?</p>
<p>I guess a better way to ask is what are the advantages and disadvantages of jAlbum vs. a WordPress plugin?</p>
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<h2 > </h2>
I had someone send me a PowerPoint file and my job is to convert it to web pages. I told him that I wanted the original sources for the images, which are jpgs, because it is generally true that the closer I get to the original source, the better I can make the images look on the web.<br /> <br /> He did not want to bother with getting me the original sources (mostly from his own camera) because he did not believe there would be any difference. His main reasoning was that he claims the images in the PP file all have the same file size as the originals.<br /> <br /> I know the jpg format is lossy and I would be very surprised to learn that pulling those images from PowerPoint is no different than having the original source.<br /> <br /> Am I right or is a jpg in PowerPoint no different in quality than the source?</blockquote>
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<p>(I was not sure which forum to post this in - I apologize if this is not the appropriate choice)</p>
<p>I am looking for free album software so I can host images on my own server - I'm not too keen about the ads on services like PhotoBucket.</p>
<p>I don't need anything elaborate - just a simple way to categorize and display my images.</p>
<p>Recommendations, please?</p>
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<p>Currently, I take relatively few photos although I will be taking more in the future. My typical usage is, for example, I'll take a dozen or so photos every week or two and sometimes just a couple of snapshots of the pets.</p>
<p>What I do is download the images to Nikon Transfer and I end up with lots of folders with just a few images. Some of the images I want to discard immediately and of course images need to be placed within folders of appropriate subjects.</p>
<p>And I'm left with a card full of images in the camera that I don't want to delete until I'm certain I have the downloaded images backed up somehow. In the past I've ended up with semi-organized CDs and some CDs have duplicates of images that are on other CDs.</p>
<p>I know I could come up with a rudimentary way to organize my images if I spent enough time thinking about it, and I don't want to sound lazy, but I'm sure someone has some good advice for a simple system to organize photos for my type of use.</p>
<p>I don't mind spending a moderate amount of money for software if necessary but the solution in my case may be just having a series of steps that I follow every time in order to keep organized.</p>
<p>To summarize the question: I need a simple system for downloading, organizing, backing up, and deleting from my card small batches images.</p>
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<p>A few days ago, my D70s displayed the "for" message and the screen said "card is not formatted" even though I had sucessfully taken a photo a few minutes earlier. I removed the card and re-inserted it and it worked fine for the rest of the day.<br>
Today I took one shot and it would not fire a second shot. The "for" message was displayed. When I went to turn the camera off, the LCD display did not turn off. Also, the green LED on the back is lit constantly. I don't want to remove the card with that LED lit but I don't know what to do.<br>
Anyone had this happen? Any suggestions?</p>
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<p>Michael, are you saying that pointing the remote at the lens of the camcorder (while pushing the remote's button, of course) and recording it, it will show up on the recording if it's working?</p>
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<p>My D70s IR remote is not working. The battery shows 3 volts (with a VOM - I don't have a battery tester for a 3V battery). Anyone have any ideas how to determine where the fault is?</p>
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I set my Nikon D70s to raw (NEF) and it would not open in Photoshop. Is there a way to open raw in Photoshop?
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So, are you saying I should set the camera to raw?
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Okay, here's what I did (in Photoshop): I took the original jpeg image and cropped it then sized it down to the size I want. I saved a copy as jpeg. Then I took the original image and saved as png. Then I cropped and sized that one. I compared the two and could see very little difference in the text. Is there something I should have done differently?
Also, will a jpeg image degrade with repeated opening and closings even if no manipulation was done?
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Bernie wrote: "The other issue is veiwing size. Are you viewing these in multiples of 25% (ie. 25, 50, 75, or 100%)? If not, edges can look strange on a monitor."
Bernie, the effect I'm trying to describe is similar the non 25% viewing multiples of which you write. Before I respond to anyone else's comments, I am including a screen shot. The top text is relatively good while the bottom shows what I'm talking about.
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I'm photographing the fronts of greeting cards with the intent of publishing the
images on the web. I have a copystand-like setup and the greeting cards have
text included.
When resizing the images in Photoshop, the text doesn't hold up so well. It's
not like it's "out of focus" and it's not "the jaggies." I don't know the
technical term for it, but it's like the edges are not consistently
well-defined. The sharpening filter doesn't help. It just sharpens the
poorly-defined edges.
I've seen this in the past and I recall that reducing the size in multiples of
one-half corrected this (i.e. changing the size from 1000 px to 500 px). I tried
that as an experiment and sure enough, that holds true. The problem is the size
I need is not a multiple of one-half.
Any suggestions on how to maintain photographed text as sharply as possible?
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I have a Coolscan V ED also and I asked Nikon about the 38 seconds. Their reply is below the asterisks. I don't know if this helps any but it may explain something.
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See specs page of LS V/50/5000 user guide (page 68) small print which reads:
QUOTE *Times for positive film scanned with MA-21 at input resolution of 4000 dpi and bit depth of 16 bits (CMS on) using Nikon Scan 4 on Pentium 4 3.06 GHz FSB 533 MHz computer with 1 GB RAM, Windows XP Professional, and USB 2.0 High Speed. UNQUOTE
Yes the chart states 38 seconds. However, that time is representative ONLY for the system noted by the asterisk on the chart and that note is quoted above. Times will vary on different systems. Systems will slower processors and less RAM than that noted will take longer to scan.
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I'm shopping for ND grads and the lens with the largest filter size I'm using
is 72mm that's on a 25-50 zoom. Are the 85mm rectangular filters in the Cokin
P mount going to be big enough to fit and not cause vignetting?
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I am in need of both a spot meter and an incident meter, preferably something
small and lightweight. Which brands/models should I consider?
Also, do all current models that apply include a flash meter? I guess it would
be nice to have a flash meter included, but if it is possible to forgo the flash
meter for small size, I would consider that.
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I see that many members here like Rodinal for Efke 25. Has anyone had experience
using Sprint with Efke 25?
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I have a shot of it here:
http://www.maps-gps-info.com/mamiya-haze.html
(The actual haze is not as bad as it may look)
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I just got a Mamiya 250 6.3 from eBay and the rear of the front element of the
taking lens has some haze.
First, I'm assuming the taking and viewing lenses are different and cannot be
switched - is this true?
Does anyone have a rough idea of how much it would cost to fix?
If I decide to try to return it, I would like to know a little more about what
can cause the haze so I can communicate intelligently to the seller about it. I
know fungus can look like haze. What else could cause it? It has a somewhat
circular pattern to it as if it had been cleaned poorly.
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I couldn't find this mentioned anywhere here but I don't think my Mamiya TLR 180
4.5 has any filter threads. A 46mm is too small and a 49mm is too large. It does
have what appear to be the grooves inside the barrel (terminology?) like some
lens hoods have but I could find no "lead-in" groove to indicate threads.
Does anyone know if there were 180s made without threads?
If there are no threads, what's the best choice for attaching a filter?
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How does one indentify an 8x10 lens? The reason I ask is because I have run
across lenses on eBay that are listed only as "large format." I'm in the market
for a long lens for my 4x5, but I don't want to end up with a lens that's
heavier than I need it to be.
Also, what is a plasmat lens?
Recommendations, please: how-to resources for Web photo best practices...
in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing
Posted