carlosmiller

<p>Hundreds of photographers will gather Monday at London’s Scotland Yard to protest a new law that could land a photographer in prison for ten years for photographing a police officer.<br>

Read more <a href="http://carlosmiller.com/2009/02/15/uk-photographers-plan-protest-against-new-anti-photo-laws/">here.</a></p>

<p>Brad,<br>

It's funny every I stumble into one of these discussions, you're guaranteed to be there waving your pro-police flag.<br>

Not all of us live in San Francisco where police are generally nice compared to other cities.<br>

And not all of us have a habit of schmoozing with police by handing them free portraits whenever you see them.<br>

http://www.citysnaps.net/blog/?p=167</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I have a Manfrotto 680B that has been slipping down on me during the last few weeks. After some research, I've learned that I could fix this issue with the little plastic wrench that came with the monopod.</p>

<p>The problem is, I have no idea where I placed that wrench. I've read that I could use some type of hex wrench, but in looking at the top clamp on the monopod, where it needs to be tightened, I can't figure out where I would tighten this.<br>

Can anyone help me?</p>

Thanks for the responses.

Howard, the reflector is a good idea and I do have one, so I might use it next time. As far as the POV, this is just one of many photos I took during the last meeting, but one I wanted to post to give example of the contrast on his face.

Nadine, the point of the assignment is to photograph them while they are talking because it's part of this monthly function the magazine hosts called Roundtable where the writer writes an article about what was discussed.

One of my regular assignments is photographing a group of business people sitting around a breakfast table having

a business discussion.

The editor of the magazine prefers that I don't use flash because it would be highly distracting and I agree.

So I usually turn the ISO on my Canon 5D up to 1600 or 3200. But in many of the photos, I end up with extreme

lighting contrasts on the subjects' faces.

What is the best setting on my camera as far as metering and exposure go?

I've included an example.<div></div>

I am a photojournalist who has only used flash or natural light in the past. Now

that I am moving into shooting weddings and models, I want to buy an Alien Bee

light set-up.<p>

My familiarity with these types of lights is nil. I basically want lights that I

can carry with me in the car for location shoots, whether it be a wedding or a

model shoot.<p>

So I know I definitely need to buy a <a

href="http://www.alienbees.com/battery.html">

Vagabond Portable Power system</a>.<p>

I am just not sure which of the <a

href="http://www.alienbees.com/packages.html">Alien Bee packages</a> I should

buy.<p>

My first inclination is buy the

<a href="

http://www.alienbees.com/digi.html">

Digital Bee</a>, but then I started reading a lot of good feedback on the <a

href="http://www.alienbees.com/ringbee.html">Ring Bee</a>, so now I'm wondering

if I should buy the Ring Bee along with the <a

href="http://www.alienbees.com/background.html">Background Bee</a>.<p>

Or should I just get the <a

href="http://www.alienbees.com/beginner.html">Beginning Bee</a> along with the

Background Bee?<p>

I want to spend the least amount of money, but I don't want to buy something,

then realize in the middle of a photo shoot that I should have purchased

something else. <p>

I know questions like this are asked a thousand times, but I'm hoping somebody

will see my needs and be able to help me make a decision. All suggestions will

be appreciated.

Of course I know the general rule is 300 ppi or higher, but I have a few photos

I took in 2005 when I was only shooting JPG on a Canon 10D that I would like to

get printed into 8x10s or 8x12s(I've since graduated to a 5D and shoot only in RAW).

When I open these files, they are originally sized at 11.378 x 17.067 inches at

180 ppi.

When I convert them to 300 ppi, they end up sized at 10.24 x 6.827 inches.

And when I size them to 8 x 12 at 300 ppi, the pixel dimensions go much higher

than the original file, so obviously this might not be the best idea.

So now I'm thinking of printing them at 8 x 12 at 255 ppi where the pixel

dimensions remain the same as the original file.

Will there be a noticeable difference? I plan to sell these in a gallery so

quality is extremely important.

Joseph,

So should I go with the Toshiba or the Lenovo?

I am looking for the best laptop with a 12.1 " screen in the $1,500 range. I

believe Costco has the best deals on laptops even if they don't have the best

selection. I am wondering which laptop would be better at handling PS CS2

between this <a

href="http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product.aspx?Prodid=11193003&whse=BC&Ne=4000000&N=4017753&Mo=10&pos=7&No=2&Nr=P_CatalogName:BC&cat=29722&Ns=P_Price|1||P_SignDesc1&Sp=C&ec=&topnav">Toshiba</a>

and this <a

href="http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product.aspx?Prodid=11188580&whse=BC&Ne=4000000&N=4017751&Mo=10&pos=5&No=2&Nr=P_CatalogName:BC&cat=56110&Ns=P_Price|1||P_SignDesc1&Sp=C&ec=&topnav">Lenovo</a>

This is a recent problem because I used to be able to batch process raw files by

selecting a certain amount of raw files by clicking on "open in camera raw" then

doing my adjustments, then clicking on "select all" and then clicking on "open

(XX) images" on the bottom right hand corner.

This would open all the files in Photoshop CS2, where I would begin to batch

process them using an action by selecting "opened files".

However, for some reason, when I click on "select all" in Bridge, nothing

happens. The files do not open in PS CS2 no matter how many times I try to do

this. Nothing I've searched on the Internet addresses this.

Does anyone have any suggestions?

What will the difference be if I use a Sandisc Extreme IV on my Canon 5D as

opposed to a Sandisc Extreme III, which seems to work just fine.

I am looking for a bag where I can pack two cameras, several lens and a laptop

to use as a carry-on bag on flights. I would also like to use it as a regular

camera bag on interviews when I have to dress up and head downtown.

This is what I'm thinking of buying. I tried posting it as a live link but

photo.net just makes it too damn complicated.

http://www.lowepro.com/Products/Shoulder_Bags/notebook_camera/Stealth_Reporter_650_AW.aspx

I currently own a <a

href="http://www.dealtime.com/xPF-Toshiba-Satellite-A45-S1202-Intel-Celeron-2-8GHz-802-11g-Wireless-15-inch-XGA-512MB-DDR-60G">ToshibaSatellite

A45-S1202</a>, but at 7.7 pounds, it has proven to get heavy when traveling with

a lot of other gear. I would also like something faster and more powerful with

larger capacity.<p>

I've never owned a Macintosh before, but I hear they're much better than PCs for

photo processing. Is the Mac worth the hype?

Robert,

How did you customize your Timbuk2 bag?

Does anyone have experience with the Tamrac 5534 Adventure Messenger 4 or any

other messenger type camera bags?<p>

I am looking for something to carry a Canon 5D, strobe and several lenses when I

am in downtown on writing assignments. Something that won't look so ackward on

me if I am dressed professionally and entering office buildings.<p>

<a

href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=425884&is=REG&addedTroughType=categoryNavigation"

>

<ahref="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=425884&is=REG&addedTroughType=categoryNavigation">Tamrac

5534 Adventure Messenger 4</a>

I would like to put together a 2007 calendar with my photos to send to potential

clients, but I've never done this before.

Does anyone have any recommended companies that offer good rates as well as

produce high-quality, professional looking calendars?

Thanks for all the answers, especially those who advised me on how to fix the "00" aperture problem. I cleaned the contacts and I imagine this will address the problem.

And yes, I use only Canon lenses and I do turn the camera off when changing lenses.

I am now on my second 5D in just over two months and I've grown to hate Canon

for manufacturing and hyping such a defective product. A quick google search

will tell you that I am not alone in this thinking. I had a Canon 10D for two

years before this and never had any problems other than the usual low-light

focusing issues that come with the 10D. <p>

I returned the first 5D after the mirror fell out of the camera two days after

receiving it. <p>

Now, less than two months after receiving the second 5D, I am having some issues

where the camera's aperture sets itself to "00" no matter how much I try to

adjust this setting. This has happened three times in the last week in all

shooting modes, including auto-focus. <p>

When this happens, the camera refuses to focus automatically, making me think

that perhaps I inaverdently switched the lens mode from "A" to "M". Last night,

when this happened for the third time this week, I checked the lens mode,

switching to "M" and back to "A" again, only to watch my camera suddenly start

taking picture after picture, as if I were holding the shutter button in

continuous mode, which I wasn't. <p>

I finally had to turn the camera off to get it to stop shooting.When I turned

the camera on a few seconds later, it continued shooting and even did so after I

switched memory cards. When I got home last night, I turned the camera on again

and fortunately, it did not start shooting, but the aperture was still stuck in

"00". <p>

It finally fixed itself when I pushed the 24-70 mm lens against the body,

leaving me to believe the problem may lie in the area where the lens mount

connects to the camera. It is not the lens because once I even switched lenses

and the problem had not fixed itself.<p>

This morning, the camera is fine, but I know it's only a matter of time.<p>

<a href="http://www.peterlanger.com/Canon5D.htm">Someone else who is not

satisfied with the Canon 5D</a>

Richard,

Thanks for the detailed answer. I am doing journalistic shots, but I wanted to invest in some lights with the idea that I can do studio-style shots down the road, even if it's something I set up in my home.