gordon_lewis

If you use a standard 24mm lens and orient the camera so the film plane is parallel to the vertical sides of the building, then the vertical lines in the photo will be also be parallel--that is, they won't converge. The problem is that in doing so you'll probably get too much foreground and not enough of the top of the building (or whatever other architectural subject you're photographing). That's why you need the "shift" feature of a tilt-shift lens. Shifting the lens upward will shift the image circle upward, thereby cropping the foreground and, in effect, moving the top of the building downward.

Opps! How embarassing, but thanks for pointing out my error. Let me

try again. The average 35mm rollfilm tank takes 8 oz. (227ml) of

solution for a single roll of film. If you dilute Xtol 1:1, half of

the volume (113.5ml) will be developer, so there will be no problem

with undercapacity. If you dilute 1:2 however, there will be only

76ml of developer to 151ml of water. That's less than the 100ml

minimum, which will lead to underdevelopment.

 

<p>

 

In my experience however, negatives developed at 1:1 at Kodak's

recommended times do not have the same density as negatives developed

in full-strength Xtol, also at Kodak's recommended time (i.e.,

they're a bit lighter.) Bottom line: run a few tests before you

develop an important roll of film.

Mr. Brown is correct. In practical terms, what this means is that

Kodak's recommended times are for one roll of 35mm or 120 film in

100ml (8 oz.) of undiluted stock. So if you dilute the stock 1:1 you

should still use it to develop only one roll. That means using 16

oz. of diluted developer for one roll of film.

 

<p>

 

Given that you can fit two rolls of 35mm film into a 16 oz. tank, you

may want a more efficient option. Here it is: when developing more

than one roll of 35mm/120 film in a 1:1 dilution, increase your

developing time by 15%. This is what Kodak recommends in their tech

sheet for Xtol, albeit in very small print. If you dilute at 1:2,

add another 15%, and add yet another 15% for 1:3.

 

<p>

 

BTW, even though one roll of 220 film will fit into a 16 oz. tank of

developer, it still counts as two rolls because of its increased

surface area. Adjust your times accordingly.

I have had a love/hate relationship with Xtol. I love the way it can

be so easily mixed at room temperature. I love the way it can bring

out the full film speed without fogging the film base or compressing

the highlights. And I like the fact that it keeps so well in a full

or partly full bottle.

 

<p>

 

But I hate the fact that on at least three occasions I have opened a

fresh package only to discover that Part A (Xtol must be mixed as a

two-part solution) has caked in the pouch. It's supposed to be a

powder. I have also discovered that if you mix the caked solution

anyway you will end up with drastically underdeveloped negatives.

Kodak has acknowledged producing a few bad batches and has even sent

me replacement developer. (Thanks Kodak, but this didn't make my

underdeveloped negatives any darker.)

 

<p>

 

Here's another problem: if you dilute Xtol 1:1 you will have to

increase the recommended developing time by 15% to compensate for the

developer's reduced capacity. If you dilute 1:2 you will have to add

yet another 15% to the time. This fact is hidden in the fine print

of Kodak's tech bulletin for Xtol, but believe me, if you try

diluting Xtol without these increases you'll have thin negatives to

show for it.

 

<p>

 

The bottom line is that I got tired of not knowing for sure how my

negs would turn out. I'm now back to using Kodak TMax Developer.

I don't want to sound like a smart-alec, but you could start by putting some film in the camera, shooting a roll or two, and getting it processed at a reliable lab. This would save your humble correspondents the time of writing up a long list of tests and would save you the time of performing them. After all, if your Bronica is new, there should be no "characteristic problems."

 

<p>

 

As for the macro exposure compensation equations, I believe Kodak offers a tech sheet or two. Your camera dealer should be able to give you the exact number to order, or you could try Kodak's web site.