cameron_ertman

Russ, the 203 has that "c" option as well.

I don't shoot weddings, but I do a lot of candids with my 203fe and Metz 50 MZ flash. I think it would work great for weddings when coupled with a decent flash, but be sure to get the 45 degree viewfinder for speeding up focusing times. As far as comparing it to the H1, I have not used that camera.

Kind of off topic, but I agree about Hassy's great customer service. A couple of years ago, I inquired about the availability of an external battery pack for my 203. The company rep in Sweden said they were no longer mass producing them, and they had no old stock, but he would make one up for me free of charge. He did, and I simply had to pay some brokerage fees for the shipping. First class operation in my books!

John, you are the voice of reason. I got into the Hassy system as a long term venture. As long as there are parts, or parts that can be fabricated, my system will do fine.

Use the "sunny 16" rule to calibrate your meter. Find an open area of blue sky in a northern direction, on a sunny day at approx. 12:00 p.m. Point your meter at an approx. 60-70 degree angle above the northern horizon (due north) and have your aperature set at 16. At this point, the shutter speed number that is indicated should match the ASA you have your meter set at (e.g. if your ASA number is 100, then your meter should be indicating a shutter speed of 1/100 @ f/16). If the numbers don't match, simply more your ASA dial until they do and you will have a correctly calibrated meter.

Ansel Adams quite often used his hat to throw a shadow on the lens!

Antonio, re-read my post as well. I did NOT advise you to use canned air, but stated if you choose to use it, then take the precautions I mentioned. Personally, I never use canned air anymore on mirrors and screens.

On internals, and especially the mirror and screen, I simply use the squeeze type blowers, and if necessary, a soft lens brush. Be very careful if using canned air as it can spray out a residue and create a smudge that is very difficult to remove from the mirror or screen. Start with a full can if you do choose to use canned air on these delicate items, and make sure the can is relatively level when spraying.

Not sure where you live, but go to www.hasselblad.se and do a search for canada. There are a number of shops in Canada that come up that do service work.

No problem using the 203FE in cold (-20 degree) weather. I prefer to use the focal plane shutter at temp. below -15 or so because I think it is more accurate. As far as batteries go, I have never had a problem, but I do plan ahead. I go out with two sets of fresh batteries (one in the camera, and one in my inner coat pocket). If the camera battery fails to perform due to the cold temp., I simply replace it with the fresh (warm) one, and put the cold one in my pocket. You can shoot a lot of film this way. I have an external battery pack for my 203, but I rarely use it, and actually prefer the two battery set-up (less bulk, and the camera is not attached to a cord). Really, the biggest problem at -25 or so is the focus rings get pretty stiff (but you can get winter lube for that).

The relatively inexpensive, small, Top Load Zoom LowePro bags work very well. There is a Top Load Zoom Mini or a Top Load Zoom 1 (etc.) depending on if you want it just for the SWC or a few accessories as well.

The 100mm is noticeably sharper than the 80mm when considering edge to edge sharpness, it focuses closer, and it works very well with tubes. It is sort of difficult to explain, but the 100mm also gives a very nice perspective when working on landscapes. If you consider all of that, plus the fact that the 1.4XE converter only works with lenses 100mm and longer, in my mind, there is no question which lens I would sell, and which of the two I would purchase. I stumbled into a good deal on my 100mm, and it ended up being one of my all around favorite lenses. If you get a chance to try one, you'll see what I mean.

I rarely used the 501CM after purchasing the 203FE. I find the 203 is very intuitive to use and a camera with many features. My advice for used is to either get it checked over by a qualified tech. or at least ask the seller to let you run a roll of film through before buying. The camera is also quite rugged as I used mine in -25C weather without a problem (at that temp. the focal plane shutter is more accurate that your lens shutters...especially at slower speeds).

One advantage of using the 500mm over the 350mm is that with the 350, you are pretty well limited to 700mm if you ever decide to get a 2x converter along with the 1.4. The 500mm will get you up to 1000mm. Also, for some really interesting compression effects, I've used the 2x and 1.4x together to make a 1400mm lens out of my 500 APO (sharpness of image was not my main concern in that case). That said, the 350 Superachromat is an outstanding optic that is both sharp and bright. If you don't intend to go over 500mm, then my vote is for the 350 with converter.

I think you can set the lens to F before or after mounting. If you set the lens to F then your lens' shutter system will not work and the 203's focal plane shutter system will kick in (as long as the 203's shutter selection ring is not set on C mode. If you leave the lens in any other position besides F, then the lens shutter system will be used. You still need to stop down the lens in either setting in order to use your 203 to read the light.

Too bad he doesn't have a w i d e wide angle in there. If it were me, I would choose the 180mm over the 150mm. The 180mm is outstanding in sharpness, and can even be used to great advantage with extension tubes for close-up work. When used in this way, you can stay farther away from the subject and still bring it into sharp focus. If you check the specs, the 180mm reproduction ratio is actually better than the 150mm for close focussing capabilities (when taking the focal length into account). You can't go wrong with the 100mm either.

Audun, I once saw a lens chart showing the CF180mm and 1.4XE combination (252mm), and compared that with the CF250mm prime chart. The 180 with 1.4XE converter showed the stronger numbers right across the graph! I understand that the new version of the 250mm is better than the old CF version was, but I found the comparison quite interesting to say the least. BTW, the SA 250mm is outstanding by all accounts. I would imagine the 1.4XE would work very well with that lens as well. Best Wishes!

I use the 1.4XE with my CFi 100 and really like the combination. The 100 is already a bright optic (3.5) and when you only loose one stop of light, it is hardly noticeable. The 100 is also extremely sharp so the combination works really well. To my eyes, loosing one stop of light is far less noticeable than loosing two, so my answer is to go with the 1.4XE. Check the one stop two stop difference yourself by using the stop down lever on you lens, and then decide. It is also my opinion that the 1.4XE is extremely sharp when used with an excellent lens and proper technique for the longer lenses. I tend to stop down two or three stops (f8 or f11) with my work, but I think the combination would probably be good wide open as well (I have gone wide open when I use the 1.4XE with the 180mm to help isolate a subject). That said, the 1.4XE only works on lenses 100mm or greater, so if you intend to use the converter on wider lenses than that, go for the Mutar. BTW, the 100mm is one of my favorite lenses, it gives a VERY different perspective when compared to the 80mm.

When I use the 1.4XE along with the CF180mm I get results that are virtually indistinguishable from using the lens as prime (I use an 8X loupe, not a microscope to check this). I achieve those results by using a good, heavy duty tripod, cable release, a 45 degree focusing hood, and a split screen accumat focusing screen. I also have made a lens/camera support bracket that the combo. can be bolted to for even greater stability on the tripod. Robert, if you take some time with technique, you will not be dissapointed with that converter.

I don't use the 2XE for infinity shots and the lens wide open because that is not one of its strengths (no problem with the 1.4XE however). My understanding is that the 1.4XE was designed specifically for the CF180, so perhaps that is the difference. I guess I'll have to pick up a Mutar sometime and see for myself regarding its superiority over the 2XE. It will be interesting to see how the Mutar performs at infinity.

I have both the 40mm and the 50mm. I bought the 50mm first; however, since I acquired the 40, I rarely use the 50mm anymore. It seems that when I'm thinking wide, I just reach for the 40mm. One big drawback of the 40mm is the size of the filters it uses (93 series). Those are very expensive...especially the polarizer. My CF50FLE uses the standard 60 series. If you need to use filters, and you don't already have the "big" ones, I think that would be a major consideration.

I might add that with the 1.4XE, you are only loosing one stop with any given lens which makes for a brighter screen (easier to focus). As far as converting the old converter to electronics, I would think that would be next to impossible for a reasonable price.

Well, I have both the 2XE and the 1.4XE and both can be sharp as a tack with an optically excellent lense (e.g. the 180mm). This is especially true of the 1.4XE

I believe the bayonet filter mount is also the same on the CB and CFE lenses. Both are a carbon composite??

Generally, unjamming a Hassy is no big deal. Just make sure you have an unjammer tool or something like it (I made one out of a regular screwdriver and a protective piece of plastic around the screwdriver tip so that damage should not occure to my lens if the screwdriver slips). I have never had to use the tool in the field, but it's there if I need it. Also, NEVER force anything on a Hassy (or any camera for that matter). If there is undue resistance when turning the winding lever or release button, for example, look carefully for a cause...there usually is one. Lastly, always cock the camera before putting a lens on, and taking a lens off. The biggest cause of jams is failure to remember to do that simple routine. By keeping these things in mind, there will be few problems with the Hasselblad.