cameron_ertman
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Posts posted by cameron_ertman
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<p>Thanks for the clarification, Jon. I didn't know about the connection with his son (it's all beginning to make sense now)!</p>
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<p>I guess in answer to my own question, it's all of the above including digital! It looks like Paul has been working with digital for quite a few years now...multi talented.</p>
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<p>An interesting body of work spanning over a number of years as a photographer. Does anyone know if he used a large format camera for these images? I know it might seem obvious he did since his work appears in View Camera Magazine but I tried researching this and came up with mixed results (everything from 8x10 to 645 format)...Thanks.</p>
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<p>If it's anything Sinar (parts, repair etc.), Precision Camera Works could have it. Here is the link <a href="http://www.precisioncameraworks.com">www.precisioncameraworks.com</a></p>
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<p>A couple of things. First, it sounds like the shutter could need a cleaning and lube if you are underexposed with the 150 and correctly exposed with the 80 when the shutter and aperture are set the same on both lenses (especially when focused at infinity). Different calculations will be needed when doing close-up work since exposure compensation is based on the focal length of the lens. Second, the 150mm never was considered a tack sharp lens when compared to the 180mm (or the 80 for that matter). If you get a chance to pick up a 180 you will not be dissappointed...one of the sharpest lenses in the Hasselblad line from close-up to infinity. You do have to be careful to use a tripod when possible since camera shake will be more noticeable with the longer focal length lenses.</p>
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<p>The 750 also works great with my Vista 64 set up. I did have a problem with my Epson printer not working using a firewire cable. Had to use the USB cable instead (apparently Vista is having trouble with its firewire ports and some Epson products). I hope you get this resolved because the scanner is excellent (I was so impressed with the 4x5 B&W scans that I'm back using my view camera)!</p>
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To add to what Stephen was saying, a couple of more useful features the 1Ds III has is its faster flash sync at 1/250, not 1/200 as on the new 5D, and exposure compensation of +/-3.0 EV, not +/-2.0 EV as on the 5D. I also wonder if the new 5D's battery was improved. I know the old version (without the optional grip) goes through batteries way faster than the 1Ds. But, whether or not these features are worth the extra money is a question that can only be answered by each photographer.
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Any time I have a battery issue I always check and clean the battery contacts in the camera. An eraser usually works or you could use a fine emery paper. In many cases, the contacts look ok, but they have a thin layer of oxidation preventing proper contact. If that doesn't work, you'll need the Mamiya experts!
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If possible, you may want to look into getting the 1.4XE. The difference between using the 2X and the 1.4X converter is quite noticeable through the lens. With the 1.4 you only loose one stop of light which may not seem like a lot, but it is when focussing (when compared to two stops). I have both converters for the 180mm, and when using the 1.4 you are hard pressed to notice a real drop in light level (I have a prism finder) and sharpness when focussing. As far as balance is concerned, I have a large Arca Swiss ball head, and have an extra long mounting plate for it that can be slid back and then locked in place at the right balance point when using a tripod. I also mounted an additional but compact quick release clamp on my flash bracket so I could again use a longer plate and better balance could be had when hand holding.
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I guess you get what you pay for. After wasting money on a lot of ink trying to get a decent B&W print from a less expensive printer, I finally settled on the R2400 and have never looked back. Great B&W prints with their luster paper virtually identical to RC paper in the darkroom.
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Make sure you've checked and cleaned the battery contacts. I use the head of a pencil eraser, or for more drastic cleaning, some fine sandpaper. It is surprising how often contacts can look clean and yet the power is not getting through.
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If you do a search on this site for hasselbad 2x or 2xe you will find opinions vary a bit on this issue. Some will tell you they can see the better quality of the Mutar in a print, and others will say any difference is not noticeable in the "real world." Personally, I don't use any 2X if I can get away with using a 1.4X. A two stop loss of light in the 2X is far more noticeable than a one stop loss in the 1.4X, and any shortcoming in lens design will be less noticeable as well. On the down side, the 1.4XE will only work for lenses 100mm or above. As far as the data bus connections go, when working with the converters, I'm usually on a tripod anyway so one more step to get an exposure reading is no big inconvenience.
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One thing to keep in mind is that the SW uses regular sized B60 filters while the 40mm/IF uses the very large and expensive B93 filters. I use both systems and when I'm packing light and compact, the SW is the way to go; however, if TTL is important for flash work I use the 40mm.
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Actually, looking at the specs, the 558 is quite a meter (about the only thing it doesn't do is meter 3 degrees as well as 1 like the 778. Here is a good link for specs. http://harrysproshop.com/Sekonic_Meters/sekonic_meters.html
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The 778 is a great dual zone spot meter. I use it for zone work and only as a spot meter. I have other meters for incident readings (although I could spot read a grey card if I really wanted to which would make it essentially an incident reading). If you can find one meter that reads in relatively low light like the 778, is a spot, can go incident, and flash, then that would be one fine universal meter and worth the price of two or so other meters.
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Happy to help regarding the tab. The colder the outdoor temp., the more the tab helps with film flatness and the smooth operation of the back. Keep us posted about the results when you get your film back.
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Since no one has mentioned it yet, are you remembering to put the film under the metal tab on the film insert when loading?
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One thing nice about the 1.4 is that you only loose one stop of light not two. Through the viewfinder, a one stop loss is hardly noticeable.
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The more I look into it, the more I like that German link. Thanks Jean-Marc!
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You can just "right click" on your mouse and select "Translate into English" to translate the German into English on that first link.
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Try cleaning the electrical contacts for the battery (in the meter head) with a pencil eraser, or even a bit of steel wool. It is surprising how many times this will solve the problem even though there is no obvious sign of corrosion.
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As near as I can tell, the only real advantage with the IF version is that you don't have to set a second distance ring (floating lens element) for correct internal focus (it is built into the main focus ring). If you don't use the lens a lot or are in a hurry, a person can miss that step in the normal 40mmFLE version with unfavorable results.
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I've had both and ended up keeping the Hassy. The Pentax 67 (original version) was an economical, good all-around performer, but there were a few things that I did not like. The flash sync. speed was too low for me (esp. for fill flash in daylight), I had to work very hard to get perfectly sharp images because of the mirror slap and resonating vibrations (esp. when using telephoto lenses), and since I was shooting both B&W and Color at the time, I had to carry an extra body since there was no interchangable back.
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...and all this with a normal B60 filter size. I'm always a bit surprised the lens design allowed for such a small filter when compared with the 40mm that uses a B93!
SLR/dSLR + 1 prime lens or a compact?
in Casual Photo Conversations
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