homer_arment1

<p>I've had that problem already with my wife trying to use the lcd screen on her D90. She has some macular degeneration and has a lot of trouble using the eye-level finder. I always carry a 3x3 ft scrap of black cloth along for such purposes. Good of you to mention it though. Thanks!</p>

<p>Thanks Matt. That make it sound like something really useful. I've now got one on the way.</p>

<p>HLA</p>

<p>Has anyone used a device called a 'CamRanger' for wirelessly tethering a Nikon camera to their Ipad or Android? I saw an ad for it in the recent issue of Outdoor Photographer and wanted to get an opinion from people I trust before I pop for one. I am getting ready to make one last tour of some National & State Parks in Colorado and Utah and it looks like it would be useful in making sure I had critical focus since my ancient eyes aren't as good as they were in my youth.</p>

<p>You could always go to Wilhelm's web site and see what they have to say about the lifetime of almost any given ink/paper combination.</p>

<p>http://wilhelm-research.com/</p>

<p>On the other hand, quite a few of the nikon F's followed GI's home from Viet Nam with the F1.4 lens. As I recall you could pick up the pair while on R and R in Japan for about $105 thanks to the exchange rate at that time.</p>

<p>I worked for a company at one time that told me they had no plan for relocating for the 'foreseeable future'. Less than two weeks later I was told they would be relocating to a site 800 miles away. Sorry but this offer is not for me. I will continue to use purchased rather than rented products.</p>

<p>You might give this site a try. I haven't tried it myself but a simple google search turned it up.</p>

<p>http://www.brothersoft.com/adobe-configurator-482929.html</p>

<p>Another thing you can do (quick and dirty) is just desaturate the colors until all casts are removed. You will still have the base color of the paper providing a little color cast though.</p>

<p>AFIK the i1 Display will only work for your display. The Munki can be used for both display and paper profile creation. If you are interested in getting something that can do both paper and monitor profiles at a 'relatively' inexpensive price I think you are limited to either the Color Munki or a Spyder plus the Spyder Print colorimeter for profiling paper. The two together would be in the same price range as the Munki but I haven't used either of these choices so perhaps someone with experience on them will answer your question. I use (and like) the i1 Photo (at least that is what it was called when I bought it) which does both paper profiling and monitor calibration but last time I checked it was about 2X the price of either of the less expensive alternatives.</p>

<p>If you are using a PC you could just download a copy of Picasa from the good folks at Google and use it to process the raw files.</p>

<p>I would be very interested in your experiences with LR4/Blurb for doing a book. I have a couple folders of images my wife would like for me to put into a book or books and since I already use Lightroom for the editing it would be handy if I could go directly from there to Blurb.</p>

<p>HLA</p>

<p>On the other hand, PE works just fine if you just ignore the request.</p>

<p>It could be a size limit on the files. Typically the JPG's I produce from my D300 files are nearly always less than 5 Megs in size and I've never bumped into this problem.</p>

<p>+1 for Pro Show Gold</p>

<p>I have noticed a similar line when switching between Organizer and the Editor but it goes away pretty quickly.</p>

<p>HLA</p>

<p>A little depends on how serious you are about photography. If you only need to download a dozen or so images every couple of weeks then just about any card reader that will connect to your computer and that can read a high capacity SD card will do. If you shoot a lot then depending on what kind of computer you use you might want to look at one that can download faster. On an Apple that would be one with a firewire connection and on a PC I would look for a USB3 connection. Since the USB3 interface is relative new on PC's getting a USB3 reader might mean you will need to also purchase and install a USB3 interface card in your computer however the USB3 is also backwards compatible with USB2 so you could use it connected to a USB2 port until you install a USB3 interface card.</p>

<p>I think PE can use nearly all (if not all) the plugins that Photoshop accepts.</p>

<p>John, you are correct that not all that many 'great' photographers work with 6X7 but there sure were bunches that used 6X6 format. I suspect that most PJ's used 35mm due to portability and visibility concerns while most studio/fashon and wedding shooters used roll film cameras for the larger initial image size. Tonality in the enlargements was where I really noticed the difference between enlargements from 35 MM and roll film. I would expect to see similar differences as you increase the film size with sheet film cameras. There must be some reason the beauty photographers used 8x10 view cameras to photograph the 'beautiful' people.</p>

<p>The help menu does list a 'deactivation' option and running it renders the installation of Photoshop unusable.</p>

<p>Why not be safe and deactivate your 32 bit version. That way if you ever get a desktop machine you will still be legal having a copy on your laptop and the desktop at the same time. </p>

<p>I will put in a plug for one of my favorite tutorials. George Jardine has a set of tutorials on Lightroom's Develop module (http://mulita.com/blog/?page_id=2) and the Library module. I found both to be very inexpensive and quite complete in their coverage.</p>

<p>I think it is also possible to open JPG files with ACR which has a clarity slider that should work just like the one in Lightroom does.</p>

<p>Sanju, if you are more interested in getting the picture than in pixel peeping I would say go for the 18-270. If pixel peeping is your thing, plan on saving for better glass or more primes. I personally shoot with an early Tammy 18-270 and in most of the people shots I shoot the individuals want a bit of gaussian blur added to hide skin imperfections. With landscape there are some I would have liked to have had a little more sharpness and there are usually some I would have liked to have had a faster lens so I could have gotten a little more background separation or used a lower ISO setting. Overall though I got the shot I wanted. I didn't miss because I was busy changing to just the right lens when the light was changing or the mood was shifting. I am an amateur and all my images are either for my own enjoyment or gifts for friends and family. If I hear too many complaints from those I give images to then they soon stop getting freebies. As long as I am happy with my images that is all I care about and for the vast majority of my images the 18-270 gives me images that I am happy with.</p>

<p>Mark, glad you managed to find a solution to your problem. I no longer have the Lacie monitor. It got passed along with the old computer to a sister-in-law after I put together my new(er) Win 7 machine. I did remember using both the Blue Eye software and i1 software to calibrate the Lacie monitor under Win XP so I knew the i1 software would work on the Lacie and I also knew it worked with Win 7. Enjoy your new system.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Perhaps you could download the software for the i1 hockey puck and use that in place of the Blue Eye software. I used both for a while then began doing more paper profiling and finally switched over to the i1 software for all my profiling. I think it is an 'open' download on Xrite's web site. The program is eye-One Match Version 3.2 and it works just fine with my Win 7.</p>