xavier_henri
-
Posts
104 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by xavier_henri
-
-
It's expensive, but it has small size, range, fast and full time manual focusing (a must have for me :-) and a non rotating
front element for the polarizing filter.
<P>Is it worth the price ? This is debatable...
<P>Anyway, it is not too slow on modern DSLRs with good <I>high</I> ISO as you can see on these <A HREF
="http://www.fovegraphy.com/EOS20D-70-300.php">few shots</A>.
-
I have been waiting for this camera to change my 20D:<UL>
<LI><U>small size / weight</U>
<LI><U>Full Frame</U> (I want my 50mm FoV with shallow DoF back from film times, and my 17-40 will be WIDER)
<LI>Microfocus calibration
<LI>14 bits
<LI>Anti-dust sensor
<LI>Highlight tone priority
<LI>Usable 6400 ISO and excellent 3200 ISO
<LI>Auto ISO mode
<LI>Easily selectable Mirror Lockup (through "My Menu")
<LI>ISO displayed in viewfinder
<LI>Live View (with histogram and <U>AF point selectable anywhere</U> for macro or very shallow DoF work)
<LI>Large viewfinder
</UL>
<P>I was a bit puzzled with 21 M Pixels, but have decided that I like it:<UL>
<LI>I'll use sRAW1 (10 M Pixels) which will further reduce noise at higher ISO
<LI>I'll be able to 1.6 crop the 21 M Pixels to 8 M Pixels so that my 70-300 DO will be as per with the 20D on the long range
</UL>
<P>I was also puzzled with video but again have decided that I like it! I rarely bring my DV camera with me as I really prefer
still images. Now, I will always have a video camera...
-
Richard, rather newer copies being optimized, I believe that users have learned the specifics of Diffractive Optics... I mean that they have
good resolution, but do lack of contrast in some situations. This would have been a real problem in film times but can now be post-
processed with very good results if you expose to the right.
<P>Have a look at my <A HREF="http://www.fovegraphy.com/70_300DO_TipsE.php">tips and tricks</A> page.
<P>Here is the lens at its worse (300mm, f/5.6) and post-processed adequately ; full size image and 100% crop.
<A HREF="http://www.fovegraphy.com/Scratch/E001-7865withCrop">http://www.fovegraphy.com/Scratch/E001-7865withCrop</A><div></div>
-
It's really users that have been upgraded...
They now know better how to use this "different" lens :-)
-
You may find my tips for the 70-300 DO lens useful:
<BR><A HREF="http://www.fovegraphy.com/70_300DO_TipsE.php">http://www.fovegraphy.com/70_300DO_TipsE.php</A>
<P>If it had existed at the time, I would have chosen the 70-200 f/4 L IS for sure, but today, I am addicted to the small
size and range!
-
Thank you guys, I have also ordered the free Rosco Gel Swatchbook, but I am still interested
in the original question, as the Nikon filters seem very easy to fit and use...
-
You need such filters when the foreground is illuminated by the flash and the background is
illuminated by tungsten light (orange) or fluorescent light (green).
<P>RAW does help, but you can only adjust to an average - in between - white balance. For
an example, see the white balance tip on <A
HREF="http://www.fovegraphy.com/FlashTipsE.php">this page</A>.
<P>I want to go one step further...
-
Does anybody use <A HREF="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00092K2IO/ref=s9_asin_image_2?
pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-
2&pf_rd_r=0FGSF6FYZ64P13CEDESY&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=278240301&pf_rd_i=507846">Nikon SJ-1
flash filters</A> on a 580EX Canon flash ?
<P>Is the covering size OK ?
-
Actually, I chose to buy a 580EX vs the 580EX II, precisely because of this.
On the original model, there is a flip switch that lets you go very quickly back to "plain old
hotshoe mode" when something special happens not well lit by the remote flashes.
On the 580EX II, you need to go through menus :-(<div></div>
-
I just dit that on your image (before / after). The result would have been MUCH better with
the RAW file (higlights are non linearly coded with excess details that can be recovered by
darkening in RAW post-processing)...
-
I always use a hood with my lenses, but there is more...
<P>This lens does flare. Flare appears when stray light is being scattered by lens
elements and sensor micro-lenses. Older lenses from the film times do not have spectra
coating on the rear lens, as film was not reflecting light as much as sensors. This is at its
worst wide open, as more light goes back into the lens.
<P>This is not that bad, as it is quite easy to post-process, especially with RAW files. If
the image is not under-exposed, a reasonable (< 1.5 EV) contrast recovery through
"Shadows" adjustment in Photoshop Camera RAW is very clean.
<P>If this is not enough, try the first tip on <A
HREF="http://www.fovegraphy.com/PhotoshopTipsE.php">this page</A>.
<P>This <A HREF="http://www.fovegraphy.com/EOS20D-50-E001-
9830.php">image</A> for instance, was completely washed out by flare even though
closed a bit at f/2.2. It was easily recovered in Camera RAW (Shadow cursor at 12 vs a
default of 5).
-
I don't agree with the others.
If you have a camera, and are already taking plenty of good
pictures, then you should wait for the newer camera.
If you don't have a DSLR yet, then by all means, buy a 5D now.
-
If you buy one, check my <A HREF="http://www.fovegraphy.com/
70_300DO_TipsE.php">Tips and Tricks</A>.
<P>Xavier.
-
If you accept some post-processing, the DO is a great lens. Here are some <A HREF="http://
www.fovegraphy.com/70_300DO_TipsE.php">Tips and Tricks</A>.
<P>Xavier.
-
I have set up a few <A HREF="http://www.fovegraphy.com/70_300DO_TipsE.php">tips and
tricks</A> for this special lens.
<P>I hope you will find them of interest.
<P>Xavier.
-
Stefan,
I have read your article. Your results are interesting, but I do not sell my photos to make a
living out of it... It is rather for "recognition".
On Alamy, my photos sell for an average of $150... It's a lot better for my ego than selling
much more for a few cents!
Nevertheless, I have the impression that the market is shifting towards microstock. I may
change my mind in the future.
Xavier.
-
Yes Bob, I agree with all you said, especially with "the digital world" and PP.
The only thing that could have made this lens really interesting for me is if autofocus
accuracy and consistency in low light was much better. In that matter, I haven't seen a
convincing test yet!
-
Faster activations keep the charge around neutral. This probably means a lesser amount of
ions, but the insides of a DSLR are smaller than the whole surface of an old record.
Regarding airstream, I suppose they are talking about an opened window, the draft would
make the ion stream miss the target.
-
Jim, the ESD consultant only mentionned that you should activate it bothways about twice
per second so that there is no charge build up. I don't think the initial polarity is of any
importance.
As you are blowing at the same time, the dust goes away when neutralized.
-
Jim, the ESD consultant who contacted me is using the zerostat to clean his Nikon D200.
Xavier.
-
I was contacted by an ESD consultant (and Nikon D200 owner) who gave me some knowledgeable
further advice for this cleaning method.
<P>It's now on line:
<A HREF="http://www.fovegraphy.com/IonizerE.php">http://www.fovegraphy.com/IonizerE.php</A>
-
Thanks to all for the kind feedback.
<P>I have consequently updated my <A HREF="http://www.fovegraphy.com/
70_300DO_TipsE.php">70-300 DO Tips and Tricks</A> page.
<P>Roger, the "silver" text on black background is to avoid disturbing color perception...
To try and make it more readable, I have split the first paragraph into several, I think it's
better.
<P>Jack, typically the kind of feedback I was waiting for, thanks! Here is what I have done:
<BR><TAB>1- Nothing changed on my website, as I haven't noticed any white balance
shift with my EOS 20D. What camera do you have ?
<BR><TAB>2- I have added a link to "PhotoKit Sharpener" with the "Local Contrast" tip.
<BR><TAB>3 - See first paragraph, I talk about the somewhat harder zoom ring.
<BR><TAB>4 - See second paragraph where I mention onion rings OOF specular
highlights, even though I never noticed it myself and doesn't find it that disturbing in the
images I have seen. I guess it all depends on your shooting style.
<P>Thanks again,
<BR>Xavier.
-
George Mazzetti asked me by email:
"In your opinion, is the lens worth the price? Is it sharp and contrasty."
I answered, but my email has been rejected by his server...
In short, yes, the lens is worth the price if compactness is important.
It is sharp, but not as contrasty as L lenses with UD glass.
But then contrast is so easy to recover under Photoshop Camera RAW...
Xavier.
-
With a bit less than two years experience with the EF 70-300 DO IS USM lens, I would like to share these
<A HREF="http://www.fovegraphy.com/70_300DO_TipsE.php">Tips and Tricks</A>.
<P>Please give me your feedback to let me improve this page: spelling, clarity, mistakes, etc.
<P>Thanks,
<P>Xavier.
Do you factor size and weight much into which lens you purchase?
in Canon EOS Mount
Posted
Yes, as I like hauling my stuff for long days of hiking (17-40 L, 50 f/1.8, 70-300 DO)...
<P>So, when choosing my lenses I look in decreasing order at:<UL>
<LI>size and weight,
<LI>usability (USM, FTM, IS, aperture),
<LI>image quality,
<LI>price...
</UL>
<P>I would already have bought the 50 f/1.2 if it was not so large and heavy! So I am still hesitating to change my nifty 50...