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xavier_henri

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Posts posted by xavier_henri

  1. I have been waiting for this camera to change my 20D:<UL>

    <LI><U>small size / weight</U>

    <LI><U>Full Frame</U> (I want my 50mm FoV with shallow DoF back from film times, and my 17-40 will be WIDER)

    <LI>Microfocus calibration

    <LI>14 bits

    <LI>Anti-dust sensor

    <LI>Highlight tone priority

    <LI>Usable 6400 ISO and excellent 3200 ISO

    <LI>Auto ISO mode

    <LI>Easily selectable Mirror Lockup (through "My Menu")

    <LI>ISO displayed in viewfinder

    <LI>Live View (with histogram and <U>AF point selectable anywhere</U> for macro or very shallow DoF work)

    <LI>Large viewfinder

    </UL>

    <P>I was a bit puzzled with 21 M Pixels, but have decided that I like it:<UL>

    <LI>I'll use sRAW1 (10 M Pixels) which will further reduce noise at higher ISO

    <LI>I'll be able to 1.6 crop the 21 M Pixels to 8 M Pixels so that my 70-300 DO will be as per with the 20D on the long range

    </UL>

    <P>I was also puzzled with video but again have decided that I like it! I rarely bring my DV camera with me as I really prefer

    still images. Now, I will always have a video camera...

  2. Richard, rather newer copies being optimized, I believe that users have learned the specifics of Diffractive Optics... I mean that they have

    good resolution, but do lack of contrast in some situations. This would have been a real problem in film times but can now be post-

    processed with very good results if you expose to the right.

    <P>Have a look at my <A HREF="http://www.fovegraphy.com/70_300DO_TipsE.php">tips and tricks</A> page.

    <P>Here is the lens at its worse (300mm, f/5.6) and post-processed adequately ; full size image and 100% crop.

    <A HREF="http://www.fovegraphy.com/Scratch/E001-7865withCrop">http://www.fovegraphy.com/Scratch/E001-7865withCrop</A><div>00REnk-81223584.jpg.da44b9f6e40a33066b02dc1fe78184b8.jpg</div>

  3. I always use a hood with my lenses, but there is more...

    <P>This lens does flare. Flare appears when stray light is being scattered by lens

    elements and sensor micro-lenses. Older lenses from the film times do not have spectra

    coating on the rear lens, as film was not reflecting light as much as sensors. This is at its

    worst wide open, as more light goes back into the lens.

    <P>This is not that bad, as it is quite easy to post-process, especially with RAW files. If

    the image is not under-exposed, a reasonable (< 1.5 EV) contrast recovery through

    "Shadows" adjustment in Photoshop Camera RAW is very clean.

    <P>If this is not enough, try the first tip on <A

    HREF="http://www.fovegraphy.com/PhotoshopTipsE.php">this page</A>.

    <P>This <A HREF="http://www.fovegraphy.com/EOS20D-50-E001-

    9830.php">image</A> for instance, was completely washed out by flare even though

    closed a bit at f/2.2. It was easily recovered in Camera RAW (Shadow cursor at 12 vs a

    default of 5).

  4. Stefan,

     

    I have read your article. Your results are interesting, but I do not sell my photos to make a

    living out of it... It is rather for "recognition".

     

    On Alamy, my photos sell for an average of $150... It's a lot better for my ego than selling

    much more for a few cents!

     

    Nevertheless, I have the impression that the market is shifting towards microstock. I may

    change my mind in the future.

     

    Xavier.

  5. Yes Bob, I agree with all you said, especially with "the digital world" and PP.

     

    The only thing that could have made this lens really interesting for me is if autofocus

    accuracy and consistency in low light was much better. In that matter, I haven't seen a

    convincing test yet!

  6. Faster activations keep the charge around neutral. This probably means a lesser amount of

    ions, but the insides of a DSLR are smaller than the whole surface of an old record.

     

    Regarding airstream, I suppose they are talking about an opened window, the draft would

    make the ion stream miss the target.

  7. Jim, the ESD consultant only mentionned that you should activate it bothways about twice

    per second so that there is no charge build up. I don't think the initial polarity is of any

    importance.

     

    As you are blowing at the same time, the dust goes away when neutralized.

  8. Thanks to all for the kind feedback.

    <P>I have consequently updated my <A HREF="http://www.fovegraphy.com/

    70_300DO_TipsE.php">70-300 DO Tips and Tricks</A> page.

    <P>Roger, the "silver" text on black background is to avoid disturbing color perception...

    To try and make it more readable, I have split the first paragraph into several, I think it's

    better.

    <P>Jack, typically the kind of feedback I was waiting for, thanks! Here is what I have done:

    <BR><TAB>1- Nothing changed on my website, as I haven't noticed any white balance

    shift with my EOS 20D. What camera do you have ?

    <BR><TAB>2- I have added a link to "PhotoKit Sharpener" with the "Local Contrast" tip.

    <BR><TAB>3 - See first paragraph, I talk about the somewhat harder zoom ring.

    <BR><TAB>4 - See second paragraph where I mention onion rings OOF specular

    highlights, even though I never noticed it myself and doesn't find it that disturbing in the

    images I have seen. I guess it all depends on your shooting style.

    <P>Thanks again,

    <BR>Xavier.

  9. George Mazzetti asked me by email:

    "In your opinion, is the lens worth the price? Is it sharp and contrasty."

     

    I answered, but my email has been rejected by his server...

     

    In short, yes, the lens is worth the price if compactness is important.

     

    It is sharp, but not as contrasty as L lenses with UD glass.

     

    But then contrast is so easy to recover under Photoshop Camera RAW...

     

    Xavier.

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