edward_kang
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Posts posted by edward_kang
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The sheet that came with the camera said that it was calibrated. No word about "cleaning" (not entirely sure what they would clean?). My lens was pretty darn clean going in (I take very good care of my equipment.)
The front element was pristine upon return. The lens caps that came back with the lens were the same ones that I sent out.
I don't even think that they needed to remove the front lens cap to disassemble my lens.
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Hey folks. It's been a while since I've posted on these forums, but I did want
to report that I recently had a problem with my Canon EF 135mm f/2.0L lens. The
focus key wasn't being moved by the AF transmission, so basically the lens
wouldn't focus, even though the USM motor or MF ring was being turned.
I used the Canon USA web site to initiate the repair and they opened up a repair
"account" for me, along with a packing slip to include with my lens and a repair
number. I removed my UV filter, lens hood, and put on a cheap pair of front and
rear lens caps before shipping.
I sent the lens via USPS Priority, insured, with delivery confirmation, to the
Canon USA Service Center in New Jersey. The lens was received by Canon two days
later and I began tracking the repair online. The total repair cost came out to
$110, which included Fedex overnight(!) shipping back to my home. The repair
time was three days after Canon received the lens.
The lens came back good as new, maybe even better than new.
It seems that if you follow their directions, Canon USA's Service Center in NJ
does a great job repairing lenses.
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The iPod is not marketed to Musicians - it is marketed to people who listen to lots of music. The iPod Photo is not marketed to photographers - it is marketed to people who like to look at lots of photographs.
What Apple wants to do is broaden marketshare by appealing to a teenage demographic that loves to see photos of friends with cute girls/guys having fun, etc. That market is exploding with hundreds of million in revenue.
Real photographers will take $500 and buy 5 1GB compactflash cards, take 500 14.1 megapixel RAW images, pick out 5 publishable images, edit them on a powerful desktop computer/laptop and sell said images for ramen and beer.
Where the heck does an iPod Photo or any CF card-to-hard-drive-watchmacalit for-that-matter fit into this workflow? It doesn't.
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<i>The way I was doing it so far was stepping a lil further from the object, ZOOMING in, and playing with the focus, so, I thought that I can acheave this effect only with a zoom lense, but out of what u guys wrighting here I see that primes will give the same (or even better ) effect, I guess just by playing with focus and apperture, without any zooming, right? </i><br><br>
Sergey, set the aperture <i>wide open</i> Primes only differ from zooms in that they typically have larger maximum apertures. Larger maximum apertures <i>typically</i> equals greater background blur.
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The distance between the camera, the subject and the background is also very important, relative to the focal length.
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Take your subject. Place them 1.6 ft away from your camera. Rack your zoom out to 135mm. Set the camera to aperture priority mode and f/5.6. Focus on some part of their body, leaving some of the background showing.<br><br>
Snap a picture.
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Lens, body, film, and photographer variables notwithstanding, the best way to have the most background blur is to place the model at minimum focus for the lens, and place the background at infinity.
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Looking through the responses to this image, I have to ask, what happened to the photographers in this forum? When did it turn from people who composed photographs to people who should simply be pointed to hotornot.com?
Have we forgotten also the lighting, the quality of lighting, the makeup, the clothing (would the effect be the same if she were wearing a white t-shirt?), the pose, the focal length, the aperture, etc?
Igor makes it sound easy ("I just spent 5 minutes snapping photos of a model with my $50.00 consumer zoom.", whatever Igor) but he's also trying to make a point - stylistically, artistically, and creatively.
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Dear Igor,
You don't need a different lens. Foxy 1 is the best, in my opinion. Foxy 2 is second best. Foxy 3 is not very good at all, because it is a misuse of 50mm! Too much flare, not enough isolation. Keep taking great photos.
Sincerely,
Ed
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Mark,
Thanks for the comments. Still trying to figure out how to rig myself into the top anchors. Got any ideas?
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<center>
<img src=http://www.scrunge.org/~ed/ethan-1.jpg>
<br><br>
Climbing at Obed.
</center>
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Igor,
I like this one a lot better than the first one, and not for the reasons of clothes-lessness. IMHO the body lighting is perfect!! The face lighting is not so perfect. Put the body lighting on the face, or the face lighting on the body and I think the photo will be just right.
Great photos, keep going.
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I don't agree with John that the high contrast look is in today. Most, if not all fashion portfolios and published photographs are low contrast and dramatic lighting. Looks like the fashion folks are getting picky about presentation as opposed to gimmicks.
I think Igor's description of 'risky' is good. This photograph looks more overexposed than anything. Thought about retouching in photoshop to remove what looks like an obvious toe and shoulder problem?
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I use invisible technique all the time. My photographs often disclose an invisible skill. I have been known to use inaudible wit, on occasion too. Only once have I met someone who truly could see my technique, skill and enjoy my sense of humor. You've probably never seen her, though...
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Control. You MUST maintain control!
In my experience, you need light modifiers to do what you're doing. A large piece of foamcore sheet in front of and below the model's face, a sheet diffuser between her head and the sun.
You can try to change films and overexpose or underexpose or whatever you want, but unless you control the light you are doomed.
Once you control the light, all you have to do is use your reflective meter on the model's face and bracket your shots.
Control!!
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Centered composition is forgivable (I do it all the time.) However, the branch in front of the woman's face is much too distracting for me, that coupled with oversaturation makes the whole picture makes me very dizzy. It's hard to pick out other elements of the photograph (such as the road and fence) because of the visual clash.
I have a sneaking suspicion that this isn't necessarily the best photograph on the roll. Got any others on the same roll that you'd put up? Sometimes the photographs we like aren't exactly the best...
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Dave, claiming that horizontal reversal is what provokes someone's existential and emotional response to a photograph and not to looking in a mirror is naive.
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<center>
<img src=http://www.nd.edu/~ekang/forum/rich20mm1.jpg>
20mm/2.8
</center>
You can get a wicked amount of depth of field with a 20mm at f/8, even more at f/11, and when you hit f/22, it's all over (and so is your sharpness :P)
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Sometimes the subjects of photographs lose their significance. I always throw those pictures away. Sometimes I keep photographs of strangers. Does that mean that strangers have more significance than people you once cared about?
<center>
<img src=http://www.nd.edu/~ekang/ooha.jpg><br>
Someone that still has significance in my life
</center>
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<a href=http://www.dirklambrechts.com> DIRK LAMBRECHTS </a>
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If anyone has any online galleries of people whose photographs you
think are representative of among the best please post, I'm
interested.<br><br>
Here's one that I found recently that showcases four photographers,
each of whom look like they have the whole lighting thing
DOWN.<br><br>
<a href=http://www.a4avenger.com/> A4AVENGER.COM </a>
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<center>
<img src=http://www.nd.edu/~ekang/composite.jpg><br>
<br>
I would consider this to be a series of snapshots, or taken as a whole, a portrait of the person portrayed.
</center>
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I use digital now, amounting to a D30 with a 128MB CF card. Although the quality isn't like fine-grained B&W film, I do get 86 high-resolution jpgs per card and on-the-fly edit capability. Though the sensor does behave a lot like slide film with its head cut off, I still find it adequate for my needs. Now if there was only an easy way to print to silver from a photoshop file...
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<center>
<img src=http://www.nd.edu/~ekang/sub1.jpg>
</center>
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<center>
<img src=http://www.nd.edu/~ekang/dance.jpg>
</center>
Kamber's M8 Extensive Field Test
in Leica and Rangefinders
Posted
<i> dangerous situations where this unobtrusiveness may mean the difference
between getting the picture or not</i>
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Yes. For example, trying to convince a pimply security guard at a music concert
to let you in with a "professional looking" camera.