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sutejok

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Posts posted by sutejok

  1. <p>Lesson learned! :) </p>

    <p>I will definitely try shooting with smaller aperture next time. I was shooting at largest aperture because I thought that's a logical way to get a faster shutter speed, and ISO was kinda my last resort if I couldnt get enough speed. And I remember reading somewhere.. Jeff Ascough is fine with 1/30th.. I guess I'm not superman.. yet :)</p>

    <p>Hmm. I have a question then. When a lens is referred to as a "fast lens". does it mean a lens that has larger aperture? Many times I hear/read wedding photographers who likes to work with "fast primes" so that they can work better at lower light, stuff like 50mm f1.4 and 50mm f1.2. So how do photographers normally ensure that their images are at sharpest even when shooting at largest aperture? </p>

  2. <p>:) Good point. It looked sharp to me until its being pointed out.</p>

    <p>Or I might be focusing it the wrong way? Normally, I set the autofocus point on the center of the frame. I will then autofocus on the subject's face, and then reframe the picture. How wrong am I by doing this? </p>

    <p>But considering that the bride's face is not that far from the center of the frame, could this have been the cause? </p>

    <p>Please advice.</p>

    <p>I will look up the shutter speed later at home. </p>

    <p>Thx</p>

     

  3. <p>Thanks for the critiques. I really learned alot, things i wouldnt have learned, unless i took this shot. This was the first wedding that I have ever covered, so still lacking of alot of technical experience is not a surprise.</p>

    <p>Thx, Michael for cropping it, I agree, that is much less distracting, and it takes away the obvious distortion on the photo frame at the corner. I thought of not cropping because I wanted to show more of the surrounding, to re-tell the sense of space during that moment. Eitherway, I need to remove the videographer's handle for the frame. </p>

    <p>Thx William, very very constructive. Yes, positioning really wasnt in my head on that day. It really should have. In fact, I dont think I paid attention to backgrounds, too focused on the foreground. The other technical details might be fixed if there was time.. The next two shots that i took after re-framing, the bride didnt look too natural anymore, as she was more aware of the camera. I guess the fix is get it right the first time :)</p>

    <p>Regarding this comment: "<strong>to know and plan where NOT to be, is just as important as being in the "best" vantage point.</strong>" I like it and dislike it too.. its very safe, but wouldnt that limit alot of things? creativity? :) I dont know, I'm not that experienced anyway to show my stand on that.</p>

    <p>Anyways, thanks again for the critiques! </p>

  4. Hi,

     

    I'm still trying to understand color management.

     

    In the past, I had issue where image edited on a laptop monitor that's really off, appears really bad when viewed on a

    different computer. So i thought, monitor calibration is the answer. Now I got the spyder2express, and have been

    satisfied when editing/printing my images. However, i'm still confused about which color profile to choose when i'm

    displaying images on my blog.

     

    After compiling my images in Lightroom (on a properly calibrated monitor), and ready to export, which color profile do

    i choose for display on a website?

     

    The problem I'm confused with:

     

    case1. export from lightroom with Spyder2express profile; the images looks fine when I open the web page using my

    calibrated monitor. However, when I view them on other computers (mostly just any average laptop lcd), the colors are

    mostly off, really bad.

     

    case2. export from lightroom with sRGB profile; the color looks off when I open the web page using my calibrated

    monitor. However, when i view them on other computers (mostly just any average laptop lcd), the colors are 'more

    correct', as in closer to what i'm seeing in lightroom.

     

    what did i misunderstood??

  5. without the extra electronic contacts, you are going to be shooting at your max aperture always, which will produce a very narrow depth of field.

     

    and yes, autofocusing and metering can be helpful sometimes.

  6. Btw, on Anne's note about the focus point; yes, i've been using that function on my camera.

     

    Actually I have a question on this. What do you do if your desired focal point is not on either of the 9 dots that the camera will focus on? What i normally do is, when the desired point is between the center and top point, i will use the center point to focus (by placing the subject at the center), then i'll recompose the image after the camera/lens have measured the focus, while holding the shutter release button halfway pressed. Is this a bad practice?

  7. Hi,

     

    I've been shooting a couple of events and kids, trying to build my portfolio. I

    really want to become a child photographer. I think i can operate my equipments

    pretty well that i hardly have problem (yet) over controlling them (except for

    formatting my CF card before start shooting..... and the problem i'm going to

    explain)

     

    So, I am mostly happy with my results, except for when it comes to sharpness.

    Most of the time I use my rebel xti body, 24-70 2.8 lens, 580ex flash. When

    necessary or depending on situation, i'll use 70-200 f4. My camera body and

    24-70 were recently calibrated by canon, so i'm not really doubting my gears.

    Left to blame is my way of shooting, and my shutter speed/aperture combination

    (or maybe something else i do not yet know). Mostly i try to use largest

    aperture to get maximum bokeh, and i try shooting at minimum of 1/80sec,

    assisted by flash, or natural light when outdoor. I try to take at least 3 shots

    at a time. and oh, the flash is mostly sitting on the hot shoe, and it does beam

    out the light to assist on focusing.

     

    Questions for the pros (or anyone): how do you make sure that your results are

    the sharpest you can physically get, especially when using largest aperture? Its

    really hard for me to try to use manual focus, as kids move too fast for the

    camera. or, are there tricks out there to do this on the computer?

     

    Thx alot.

    Tejo

  8. hoho thank you very much everyone. I think.. i'm going with canon 10-22.. i think too i will hate to be changing lenses every 2 minutes. but i thought if i want to get a wide angle, might as well go all the way :) (17-40 is not wide enough, some say..)

     

    Thank you all!

  9. Hi all. I currently own the canon 24-70 f2.8L and i've been using it for my

    trips and it works great. however, there are times when I feel that the lower

    end at 24mm is not wide enough.. I'm using 400D so the crop factor make it worse.

     

    i'm considering to get a wide lense. I've been looking at a couple of options

    but i'm not sure which should i be getting.. hoping you guys can help me figure

    out :) my options are canon ef-s 10-22 f3.5-4.5, sigma 12-24. would you guys

    prefer one over the other? the other option i was considering is the canon

    17-40mm f4. a friend of mine let me use his lens for a couple of days and it

    felt pretty good. i didnt have the chance to take it out and really test it. but

    the wideness seems sufficient for archi shots, and the upper range at 40 seems

    to make it a walk around lense. the only disadvantage is just the limit to 17mm,

    and it overlaps with my 24-70m (not sure if this is even a disadvantage..). what

    do you guys think? This will be my third lens after 24-70mm and 50mm 1.8.

     

    as of now, i dont have plan anytime soon to move up to 5D, so ef-s might not

    affect me for a while.

     

    Please help! thank you very much.

     

    Sutejo

  10. My Digital Rebel was stolen along with my 28-135mm IS USM. Insurance covered me $800, enough to get me a new a new xti body, and the 50mm/1.8 lens. and guess what? i kinda feel lucky about that old stuff getting stolen. otherwise i would have never realized what i've been missing without that 50mm guy. i lived with that lens for a while, and like many others, that is the only lens i used for the next couple months, and i'm very happy with it. (i took it of after getting 24-70)

    <br><br>

    Another advantage of the 50mm, it works very well with the kenko extension tubes, making it a macro lens.

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