mauriziospadaccino

Hi, I think you have to do this becose of the Polaroid back. Otherwise, turing the knob again after replacing the back seems to work, as indicated above.

Hi all,

 

I was just wondering if there's any way to scan a 6x6 film on a

flatbed scanner that has NOT adapters for films at all (it's just a

normal flatbed). I tried just placing the negative on the scanning

plane but results were awful. My scanner is a HP 1015 that has not

any chance to mount on adapters and I was wandering if really need

to get an Epson.

 

Thanks

thanks again for your clarifications. Roger, when you say "for N+ development, ask the lab to develop 50% longer than normally" where do you reckon could this bring me in terms of "+"es (i.e. N+1 or N+2 or etc...)? Or is it just a question of experience?

"On the other hand, you may have meant that the scene is so flat that the area you want to be in zone 7 won't reach zone 7, even with the more generous exposure. Then you need expanded development, that is to say, N+."

 

 

Yes Rob, that is what I meant (I know I can be a little confusing in my first post...)

 

Basically it seems that to properly understand how pushing or pullinf affects development I need to do it by myself, experiencing different types of developers and times etc. Fair enough, I though N+ rules would be equivalent to pushing n stops away while developing at the lab, but apparently it ain't.

 

Thanks everybody for their contribution, now things are indeed clear to me.

 

Maurizio

thank you George...

thanks George, so you basically tell me that if I use the crank it won't let me loose a frame?

Hi all,

I'm new to ZS especially in the field of development, my doubt about

it is the following: say I have a medium format camera loaded with a

120 back with a 400 ISO BW film that I decide will be processed at

N+1 (because, for example, I couldn't reach zone 7 on highlights in

low light conditions forcing me to place deep shadows that I wanted

to detail out in Zone 3). I then go the lab: what should I ask for

in terms of develoment? I mean, should I say I want to develop it as

a 800 ISO or a 200? It seems people at the lab don't understand when

I say I want the roll developed N+1 (I know, I should change lab

then...)

I think the answer should be 800, but I'm not really sure...

Hi,

I'm new to the Bronica world, I have an SQ a which I'm very happy

about, with two 120 backs. My question is:

I noticed that if I change between backs with films loaded, and if I

already had cocked the shutter in one of them, removing the back and

placing it back the shutter is not cocked and I cannot release it

without switching the multiple exposure for the shooting (and the

switching it back off in order to advance the film). On the other

hand, if I remove one back before cocking the shutter (hence soon

after the previous shot) and then place it back it is still possible

to wind up the film to the next frame in order to cock the shutter.

I don't know if I was clear, but simply I wonder what would be the

correct procedure after one shot: 1) do not wind the film until you

really want to shoot another photo; 2) do wind the film to the next

frame, but this giving you the problem mentioned above in case you

remove the back.

Thanks for any clarification

when you select the S or C position on the lever the mirror simply locks up but and the leaf shutter in the lens closes. You won't be able to see anything of course, but that's what you wanted if you intended to lock up the mirror; on the other hand, the shutter won't be firing until you press the shutter button normally. After that, if you're on the S position, winding the film and cocking the shutter will place the mirror back to its normal (down) position, allowing you to fire the next photo looking through it as a normal SLR. If it's in C position, you'll need to put it back to S or N to get it back after the next film winding. Hope this helps

that's a great advise that fortunately didn't come too late! I'll just blow some air on it and that's all. Thanks everybody!

I do have the same problems as you: the minimal pressure on the back of my second hand SQA 120 back makes it open. I found out this is due to the fact that one of the hooks seem to be a little worn so only one is working properly. Any other suggestions besides buying a brand new back or taping it around?

talking about the T mode, I was wondering if there's any safe way to activate the T selector on the lens (in order to shut down the shutter) without shaking the camera body, since it seems like inevitable while operating it under the lens.

Hi all

I just bought a Bronica SQ A on ebay and I was wondering if gently

cleaning the mirror of the camera body with a soft cloth is a bad or

good idea, considering that it is not a good idea on a 35 mm SLR

since it carries other contacts to exposimeter etc. while in MF it

seems to be just a piece of glass.... Do you reckon I can just touch

it or leave it alone as in the 35mm SLR case?

Thanks everybody for the help

.... I'm in the same process as Domenico, basically looking for a good quality startup mf system. I heard about the same: Bronica seems the choice in terms of prices and overall quality, when talking about the Sq systems.

Which one should we look at? I read somewhere the Bs are nice, although they can't mount As accessories on, such as a metered prism, but still good quality as their superior sisters (As...).

Any suggestion?

thanks