sleepytom

Great. Thanks.

<p>I have a 50/2 Summicron with a broken aperture ring. The ring turns, but won't adjust the aperture. It's stuck at about f-11.<br>

I emailed Sherry Krauter for a repair estimate but got no response. Does anybody have an idea about what it would cost to repair this lens? Suggestions about where to send it?<br>

Thanks<br>

<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/1766276-lg.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="402" /></p>

Thanks Christopher. Did the tripod you were using have a leveling head, and do you think that would make a difference. I suspect I'll eventually get a 3-way pan head, but I'm getting tired of making equipment decisions as I get started in LF.

On Second look, I guess I did NOT transpose the numbers. <a href="http://www.photobooksonline.com/gear/features.html">Here</a> is the model list.

Thanks, Mark. That helps a lot. I think I did just transpose the numbers.

I've ordered a used Cambo Master PC as a starter 4x5. (This isn't

really designed as a starter model, I know, but it is what I ended

up with.) The body weighs 16 pounds and I'm trying to pick out a

tripod for general use (in the house, near the car, etc.). Do you

think a Berlebach 3042 (which has a leveling head capable of 30-

degrees) without a head would be a reasonable choice? Thanks.

Thanks for the good answers. I always assumed that when somebody told me to "go soak yourself" they really meant my film. At any rate, I assume it is safe to soup both versions together, no?

After processing 75 rolls or so of 35mm black and white film I tried

my first roll of 120 film yesterday. It was HP-5+, which is the film

I've settled on for 35mm and I processed it in my usual manner. The

film came out as expected, but there was a twist in the processing

that I didn't anticipate.

 

I routinely presoak the film in tempered water (24 degrees

Centigrade), and this time as I poured the water out it was a very

dark green. I went ahead and processed the film, and as I say it

came out fine. But what in the world was the green stuff?

What types of things do you use it for Scott? And just how "macro" can you go with it; 1:1?

The lens say "Polaroid Prontok", but also says "Rodenstock Ysaron 1:4.7 f=127mm". Would this lens be useful on a view camera?

I recently acquired a Polaroid MP-3 Land Camera on a copy stand. It

used to be used for scientific purposes in a hospital darkroom. Does

this camera have any use other than copying flat work? I have a 4x5

enlarger but no other 4x5 equipment, and while I'd like to do 4x5

work eventually I don't want to do any copying. Can this gear be

useful to me somehow?

You can buy one easily from Stephen Gandy at cameraquest.com . It is a nice body and I recommend it, but you'll probably still have the Leica bug until (and after?) you have your first Leica M body.<div></div>

<p>Oh, I just found the answer in an <a href="http://members.fortunecity.com/canoneos/manuals/lunaprof3637.jpg">on-line manual</a> for the gossen luna pro. A compensation is required, +1 1/3 for the 15-degree, and +3 for the 7.5 degree. So my attachment seems to be working properly.

I recently got a variable angle attachment for my Gossen Luna Pro F

light meter. I notice that the attachment is blocking a lot of

light. For example, I stood close to an evenly lit wall and metered

without the attachment, nulling the reading. Then I metered with the

attachment set at 7 degrees and got -3. Then I metered at 15 degrees

and got -2. But I'm sure I'm metering the same level of reflected

light. Is it typical to have to adjust the reading when using the

attachment? Or is there a calibration procedure? I bought the

devise used and there are no instructions.

 

Thanks.

Thanks for the helpful responses. As fate would have it, I found a used enlarger last night and picked it up today (Omega B8 with Schneider Companon). So I guess soon I'll be able to answer my own questions, but it is always helpful to have the input of those with more experience.

<p><b><u>First a little background</u></b><br>Fifteen years ago I

took an introductory photo class at the University of Kansas. For

the class I developed 18-20 rolls of Tri-X (in D76, I think...).

Then I got married, had children, changed careers, and mostly forgot

about photography for a while. A few years ago I got new equipment

and concentrated mostly on color. But in recent months I have begun

with black and white again.</p><p>After trying a couple of films I

bought a bulk roll of the new Delta 400 emulsion, developing it in dd-

x according to Ilford's instructions (8 minutes when rated 400, 13.5

minutes when rated 1600). My output has been exclusively scanning

and printing; a process I'm not that happy with so I'm looking for

darkroom equipment.</p><p>I recently bought a nice 5x loupe, my

first, and took a look at my negatives. First the rolls rated 1600.

Very grainy. Oh well, what could I expect. Then the rolls rated

400. Still grainier than I expected. But then again, what should I

expect? Not sure.... So - I dug out my 15-year-old rolls of Tri-x

for comparrison. To my eyes, and to my <b>surprise</b> the Tri-x had

more &quotPunch&quot. They seemed more luminous, more vibrant.

Perhaps a denser silver.</p><p>So here are my questions in all of

this:<br><ol><li>Can film be adequately evaluated without making

enlargements?<li>If so, what would be the first thing to try to

correct?<li>Is there something about the newer film grains that might

predictibly cause this look under a 5x loupe?</ol></p><p>I understand

that distance education is not ideal for this type of thing, but I

have no master here to guide me. Could you provide any feedback, oh

masters of photo.net?</p><p>For what it is worth (not a lot I

suspect) many of the scans <a

href="http://www.sleepytom.com/paw/">here</a> are Delta 400

shots.</p><p>Thanks</p>

I wonder if you might want to try the new Voigtlander Bessa R2 with your current Leica M lenses. The Bessa R2 can flash sync at 125. Just a thought.

<p>I was hoping that <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-

fetch-msg?msg_id=000xI8">this thread</a> would answer my question,

but no such luck.</p><p>I have a Mamiya C330 that won't allow my

cable realease to screw into the shutter release button on the

bottom/right/front of the body. The button doesn't seem damaged in

any way, it just won't accept the threads of the cable. My

Mamiyaflex accepts the cable just fine. Any suggestions?

</p><p>Thanks much.</p>

<p>Hello to all. I am evaluating some Mamiya equipment that I bought

from (you guessed it....) e-bay. (C330 body, Mamiyaflex body,

65/3.5, 80/2.8, 105/3.5, prism finder and Rollie pistol grip for US

$550). The equipment seems in reasonable, but not perfect condition

(leather disc peeling off one focusing knob, dust spots visible when

looking at the ground glass, cleaning scratches on the lenses - but

bellows look good and everything functions well except as noted

below.) I have a couple of specific questions about the evaluation of

this equipment:</p>

<p>The 105mm lens (chrome) is having shutter problems; cocking the

shutter often results in opening the shutter, which only closes again

when the shutter is released. I expect most of my first 2 rolls of

film to be ruined by this malfunction, but do you think a basic

clean, lube and adjust would solve this or is the lens trash?</p>

<p>The C330 body has some sealing material at the bottom of the

inside of the back door which appears to have a little fungus on it.

I can't find fungus anywhere else. Do you suspect that this will

cause any problems, or does it lead you to believe that I'm missing

fungus someplace else? It doesn't seem to be a critical problem to

me. I would think that the sealer could be scraped off and new

sealer applied, but I'm inclined to leave it alone; what do you think?

</p>