rickbehl
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Posts posted by rickbehl
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Thanks Dan. Certainly i can use the histogram and a 'trial and error approach' on my D70
but don't forget that my main usage is on film so some sort of reasonably accurate
metering technique will be required... Anyway i've just shot a couple rolls today through
the F6 so i'll let everyone know how they come out wuth samples if any are good enough.
Thanks again,
Rick
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<p>Thanks for the new responses.</p>
<p>Shun, I agree in that I wouldn't normally follow Ken Rockwell's advice very closely but it does seem he has written a reasonable amount about this lens, it's compatibility and general tilt/shift methods... Usually I will look for verification from at least 2 sources before I 'believe' something on the net...</p>
<p>Dan, yes, of course. I completely forgot (although knew about) the ability to correct converging verticals with this lens! Thanks for pointing that out together with the detailed method of near-to-far sharpness maximising... Like I mentioned earlier I think I will leave the lens unmodified for now and see whether I hit a 'hmmm, I wish I could do that' moment the next few times I go out shooting.</p>
<p>As for metering, I've read around on manual metering and it looks like all I need to do is choose a relevant aperture (I've read that f11-f16 is optimal for this lens) and then adjust the shutter speed until the light meter zeroes (no over or under exposure displayed). All this while having no exposure compensation set of course.</p>
<p>Rgds<br>
Rick</p>
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<p>Thanks Ilkka. Actually I was referring to using the Program (Shift) mode in the 'zero shift/tilt' position by setting the appropriate aperture setting on the lens and then getting the shutter speed from the LCD readout.</p>
<p>Can you explain what you mean by "select the shutter speed and aperture as you would normally in manual mode"?</p>
<p>I'd really appreciate if you could check it out on the F5. I think it would help you to see what I mean....</p>
<p>Thanks again, Rick</p>
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<p>Hmm.... I don't think I will risk modifying this lens myself especially considering the cost and the fact that I would void a 3 year warranty by doing so...</p>
<p>Anyone able to help on the exposure/metering question above?</p>
<p>Rgds<br>
Rick</p>
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<p>Thanks for clearing that up regarding the tilt/shift/swing on the same or different axis. I think I will do as Ilkka says and use it for a while like it is before I figure out whether it is worth modifying.</p>
<p>I've been playing around with the lens a bit today and I have another question regarding getting correct exposure settings. As I am using this on a Nikon F6 Film Camera right now I would like to try and minimize any exposure errors (as obviously these are harder to detect than on a dSLR). So as per Ken Rockwell I set the camera mode to 'Program (Shift)' and then set the aperture manually on the lens using the ring. The F6 then gives me a shutter speed. It seems by moving the aperture ring it does change the shutter speed by what seems a correct amount. All this is being done while the lens is in 'Normal' mode (ie, I have not pressed the aperture stop-down button). If I need to check or re-check focussing I do use the aperture stop-down button to do this.</p>
<p>Would this be the correct way of getting the exposure on this camera/lens combination? Just wanted to check before I put some rolls of film through it... Also would this work on my older dSLR (Nikon D70)?</p>
<p>Thanks again,<br>
Rick</p>
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<p>Thanks for all your help everyone. One other question I have is that I have read it is advisable to get a Nikon Service Centre to make some adjustments so that tilt and shift are available at the same time? Ken Rockwell mentions,</p>
<p>"If you're a landscape photographer like me, be sure to send your 24mm PC in to Nikon service before you shoot to have the lens recombobulated by 90 degrees so you can get rise/fall and tilt at the same time. As shipped, you get swing, not tilt, with rise/fall."<br>
<br />Is it worth doing this? or is swing with rise/fall (shift) sufficient for most purposes? After all if tilt with shift is more useful why would Nikon not make this the default?</p>
<p>Thanks again,<br>
Rick</p>
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Thanks Jose. I will certainly take a look at those 2 books. I'm sure
the general principles are the same. It would be really handy though
if someone had written something specifically for these Nikon PC-E
lenses just so i know how to apply the principles with the equipment
at hand. Let me know if anyone has come across anything like this.
Rgds
Rick
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<p>Hi all,<br>
I've just bought a Nikon 24mm f3.5 PC-E lens for usage for my landscape, travel and architectural photography. Based on all the reviews I read it seemed like a good (although expensive) choice for the type of images I am interested in shooting. Now although my plan in the future is to use it in on a pro dSLR body (like the other millions I am waiting for the D700 replacement), for now I am planning to use the lens on my F6 film body. From my reading it seems that the restrictions on tilt/shift/rotation are not too sever on this body...<br>
Anyhow, I had a thorough read of the instruction manual that came with the lens and it doesn't seem like there is a lot of guidance on the actual step by step usage of the lens. There is a quick 1-2 page guide on shooting but I guess I am looking for something a bit more practical/in-the-field in terms of a tutorial/guide on how to get the best out of this lens.<br>
From my understanding this lens could be used for a number of applications:<br>
1) Maximising depth of field (for say landscapes) by using the tilt<br>
2) Stitching panormas by using a pure vertical/horizontal shift<br>
3) Special effect type shots which have a very shallow depth of field rendering a sort of 'toytown' look</p>
<p>Would anyone know of any good reference material on ideally the usage of this lens for these (and other) applications or any generally good reading for tilt/shift lens usage?<br>
Thanks in advance,<br>
Rick</p>
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<p>There's also a place called Matsuya in a covered shopping parade on Nathan Road (near exit C of TST MTR station)... You can google for the exact address. They have a pretty good selection of MF gear incl. Pentax, Mamiya, Hasselbads and Bronica. I picked up a Pentax 67 and couple of lenses there fairly recently. There's a guy who works there called Robert who is very helpful and can give good advice. Certainly a lot more helpful than most of the guys in Champagne Court (small 2nd hand camera mall on Kimberly road). You can have a loot at Champ. Court but I found the service to be not quite as good and if you look anything like a tourist you may get fleeced....<br>
Rgds<br>
Rick</p>
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<p>Thanks for the advice... As I don't really have a real need for such a device I think I'll pass and save the bucks for that 45mm f4 which I've been lusting after for the last few months...<br>
Cheers, Rick</p>
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<p>Hi all,<br>
Popped by my local 2nd hand camera shop last weekend and was told about a new Pentax 67 lens to Nikon body adaptor. Just wondered if and what kind of effect this would produce and whether anyone had used one? Seems to be made in China... Obviously I would not want to attach anything to my Nikon cameras or Pentax lenses which might damage them...</p>
<p>Thanks in advance,<br>
Rick</p>
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<p>Nice portraits, can I ask what film and lens you are using ?<br>
<br /> Rgds<br>
Rick</p>
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<p>Thanks for all the advice... Hoping to test out these measures soon once the camera comes back from the shop hopefully with a repaired meter which stopped working last weekend...<br>
Rgds<br>
Rick</p>
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<p>Thanks, I'll give it a go !</p>
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<p>Great ! Thanks Paul, I'll be rooting around the 2nd hand stores here in Hong Kong tomorrow to see if I can find one of these magnifiers... If I find one I'll try and report back here on how it works out. Thanks again to everyone for their help!<br>
Good Light !<br>
Rick</p>
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<p>Paul, can you tell me a little more about the focussing magnifier. Is there a specific one for the 67 ? I checked ebay and it seems there are a few on there but they don't specify whether they are for the 67. Most seem to mention the spotmatic ?<br>
Thanks again,<br>
Rick</p>
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<p>Steve, do you mean set the aperture at f22 but then focus so that the infinity mark is over '16' on the aperture ring ?</p>
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<p>Thanks Steve. I've just posted a question on the Pentax Lenses forum to see what opinions are on the optimum apertures for the 55mm/f4. Hope to get a general consensus there...<br>
Rgds<br>
Rick</p>
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<p>Thanks Mike. Do you find that f11 is usually sufficient to get enough Depth of Field in your shots. For the landscapes I'm currently shooting on 35mm (with Nikon) which I hope to move to the Pentax I was slightly concerned that for some of those shots f11 may not be sufficient to get enough '3D' effect into the image... I guess I can try these at f16 and hope to a good compromise between sharpness and depth-ality (I just made up that word :-)</p>
<p>Rgds<br>
Rick</p>
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<p>Hi all,</p>
<p>I've just 'invested' in a Pentax 67 together with a 55mm/f4 lens. I believe the lens is the last generation as it takes a 77mm filter and also states Pentax SMC 67 rather than 6x7 which I understand can be used to differentiate the versions.</p>
<p>I'm sure this question may have been asked before but are there any comprehensive ratings/test websites on the qualities of this and other lenses which show the proven sharpest apertures ? If not can other owners of this lens suggest from experience what they believe the sharpest aperture(s) is/are ?</p>
<p>I've seen some comments that mention f11 as being the sharpest but others which say that the lens is sharp all the way through to f22 ?</p>
<p>Any advice appreciated,</p>
<p>Rgds<br>
Rick</p>
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<p>Thanks Doug and Mike.</p>
<p>Mike, I'd be interested to see what you mean by 'draping' your camera bag across the pentaprism. I don't suppose you have a photo of that I could take a look at ? It sounds like its worth a go to see if it makes any discernible difference to the current results from my setup...<br>
<br>
Rgds<br>
Rick</p>
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<p>Thanks Robert. Maybe that's the problem. I'm probably trying to make too many comparisons indoors and not enough time going out shooting... With landscapes I would assume that using infinity or hyperfocal focussing probably would make the viewfinder slightly less important anyhow... (I have started a seperate forum thread on optimal focussing for sharpness using the P67)...<br>
<br /> Thanks<br>
Rick</p>
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<p>Hi Jim,</p>
<p>Hmmm... maybe I misunderstood then. I assumed the general rule was f22->f11... Well there you go. You learn something new every day ! Either way I knew that the extremities were usually not recommended for sharpness... Thanks for the info though !<br>
Rgds<br>
Rick</p>
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<p>Thanks for the advice Robert but actually I just bought the 67. At the time of purchase I had the choice between the 6x7, 67 and 67ii. I wanted MLU but didn't necessarily want to pay the premium for the 67ii (which was almost double the cost of the 67) hence I chose the 67. For the most part I don't think there are any major features which I'm missing but it would be easier if that focussing screen was a touch brighter....</p>
<p>Rgds<br>
Rick</p>
Bracketing on Pentax 67ii
in Medium Format
Posted