marknagel

<p>Ellis,</p>

<p>After rebooting again, I think Vista 64 does use profiles. I notice the color settings change from what looks OK to the super saturated when it loads the Spyder (calibrated) profile. Any idea why the spyder profile would work in CS4 and others programs, but not int he windows enviornment?</p>

<p>m</p>

<p>Yet another reason to hate Vista!</p>

<p>m</p>

<p>I recently upgraded monitors and calibrated using a Spyder3 Pro. The profile is loaded and CS4, Capture One, ACDSee and Firefox are all accurate, but windows is way over saturated (background, icons, file explorer preview). I have Vista 64. Any ideas?</p>

<p>m</p>

<p>OK, as some you you have read my other post about hardware calibration and cheap monitors, I recieved the HP LP2475w. I got it through Amazon shipped for about $620.<br>

Pros:<br /> My impressions are pretty good. First off the mount/stand is top quality compared to the Samsung T240. The monitor itself feels sturdier, it has every plug in the world to chose from, and it comes supplied with several chords to use (DVI-VGA, DVI, HDMI, and DP). Once setup, it took about 30 minutes to calibrate to replicate the 5 8x10 test/compare shots I have (Adorama prints using thier porfiles). The color is about dead on in CS4, Capture One, ACDSee, and Firefox after default calibration using my Spyder3 Pro. The brightness needed to be turned down to 0 zero and the contrast to 25, the rest of the monitor settings were default. Turning the power down does cause a very faint hum, unlike the loud buzz from the Samsung, but its quieter than the computer CPU fan which is below my desk. Overall, I like the monitor.<br>

Cons:<br /> OK, these are small, but I thought I'd list tham anyway. The monitor does have 4 dim pixels, they look like dust on the monitor. I may call HP or Amazon on this, since I paid over $600. The supplied software does not install, it may be Vista and I have not looked on the website for an updated version. Last, and this may also be Vista, the windows environment is VERY over saturated and red. Photoshop CS4, Capture One, ACDsee, and Firefox (I changed settings to read profile in FF) are all almost dead on as I stated above, but my background, file explorer, and icons are all way off. Any ideas?<br>

All the cons are survivable. If I had to do it again, I would but this monitor.<br>

Mark</p>

<p>Brooks,</p>

<p>I will. I should have it early next week. I looked at that review, thats what made me switch.</p>

<p>M</p>

<p>Brian,<br>

Yep, you caught me, I'm a liar! Just because you didn't see them, it must not have happened. I was watching the auctions in ebay. Kicked myself for not bidding on them, after I decided against the kit route. Why so passionate about this? Just watch for a while, as I said, I think the price drop was due to people tight over the holidays and people buying kits for the 5D mkII and dumping the lens.<br>

m</p>

<p>Yep, selected LCD, set everything to default, and there isn't any display settings in my start-up. I guess you get what you pay for.</p>

<p>I got lucky though, being Xmas time, BestBuy extended their return policy window and eligibility. I just returned it and ordered an HP LP2475W LCD which is an 8 bit IPS panel. Hopefully that will work better. I'll post again when I get it.<br /> </p>

<p>m<br /> </p>

<p>Brooks,</p>

<p>Yes, I've downloaded the Adorama and Sam's profile (Sam's uses a Frontier profile). The brightness and contrast are the most off. As I said, I can eyeball it using prints, but I thought the hardware calibrators were supposed to do that for you. Is there a recommended setup for the Spyder and Samsung T240?</p>

<p>Vinh,<br>

Thanks for the info, I never knew about the differnces in LCD's, I did a search and read up on TN and S-IPS. Interesting, but I can't justify $800 for a monitor after spending $400 on this and not being able to return it. CRT's were a lot simpler!</p>

<p>m</p>

<p>16-35/2.8*<br>

24-70/2.8*<br>

70-200/2.8*<br>

35/1.4*<br>

400/2.8<br>

800/5.6</p>

<p>*Already have, sell my truck and I could complete the set!</p>

<p>m</p>

<p>The 5D has a lower sych for strobes, non-Speedlight, 1/125 (published).  I think the mkII is 1/160.  The published 1/250 is for speedlights.<br>

 <br>

m</p>

<p>I had a Huey Pro that worked pretty good with my old Samsung CRT. After buying a Samsung T240 LCD, I couldn't get the colors right. I bought a Spyder3 Pro, and same thing. I can get better results printing a few 8x10s and eye-balling it with the video cards software. I also have to turn the brightness and contrast almost all the way down to get accurate prints (the monitor is blinding bright). I print at Adorama and sometimes Sam's Club, they seem to produce the similar results.</p>

<p>I tried calibrating and changing the Gamma and WB from the recommended 2.2/6500, but it was just hit or miss comparing it to the 5 prints I made. Am I missing something or should I just dump the Spyder and keep eyeballing it?</p>

<p>Mark</p>

<p>I tried to cut a roll of paper (differnt kind) and it didn't work so well. I had a fine tooth Forest WWII blade, it doesn't come off the roll without binding on the cut.</p>

<p>m</p>

<p>Here is the selling history on a "NIB Canon 24-105mm" from Ebay:<br>

"Items like yours that sold successfully have an average starting price of <strong>$517.00</strong> and an average sold price of <strong>$792.00</strong> ."<br>

Average is only $792, lately they have been in the $650-$750. I saw two go for $650 +- a few bucks. Just because you didn't see it, doesn't make it untrue.<br>

m</p>

<p>Brian,</p>

<p>Been watching myself for two weeks and thats what I've seen.</p>

<p>m</p>

<p>Paint it white and they would ;)</p>

<p>m</p>

<p>Brooks,<br>

Vista is still "Crappy", CS4 just works better now.</p>

<p>M</p>

<p>The market got flooded with this "kit lens" bundled with the 5DmkII. Many people bought the kit because it was the only way they could get a 5dmkII without being on the list. I know my local store has had the kits in stock for a while, but a huge waiting list for the bodies. They have been selling on Ebay NEW (out of kit) for $650-$750.<br>

Or, Canon knows the 24-70L is better and they bundled it to get rid of them, what came first, chicken or the egg :)<br>

m</p>

<p>I had four Tamrons and a Sigma. The Tamrons had huge sample variation. I'd recommend trying before buying.<br>

Comparison:<br>

<a href="http://www.nagelhome.com/phototest/Test%20Final.jpg"> www.nagelhome.com/phototest/Test Final.jpg</a><br>

Just the Tamrons (I think most of the variation was AF hunting)<br>

<a href="http://www.nagelhome.com/phototest/Tamron%2028-75%20Test.jpg"> http://www.nagelhome.com/phototest/Tamron 28-75 Test.jpg</a><br>

<br /> Mark</p>

<p>I love my 35/1.4L.</p>

<p>http://www.nagelhome.com/phototest/35mm%20test.jpg</p>

<p>m</p>

<p>40D or 50D are both excellant. I sold my 40D and miss it, it was a great camera. I'd get the 40D, save a bit of money over the 50D and get a 35/1.4L. I use my on my FF and crop and its perfect.</p>

<p>m</p>

<p>I tried a few 50/1.2L and they were on par with my 50/1.4 (not better, not worse). I couldn't see spending the extra $1000. Moneys never been an issue, I just didn't see the difference.</p>

<p>m</p>

<p>Shooting motorcycle race school, I've sold over 100 prints 24x36, at least half were done on an 8MP 20D. I couldn't tell the differnce on my 40D or 5D...Except the 40D didn't miss a shot (shots like a machine gun).<br>

m</p>

<p>I talked to Adorama and they got 500 in last Friday and another 500 in Monday. I got mine out of that batch. Two local stores in MN have a few of the kits in stock as well. </p>

<p>Now batteries, thats another story. I'll be using the grip with one battery for a while I think.</p>

<p>m</p>

<p>I wanted to follow up on this thread I posted earlier this month. Thanks for everyone's help. I ended up buying a Geforce 8800 and it solved all the problems. CS4 runs like a champ. </p>

<p>m</p>

<p>I just put a new Geforce 8800 in and its much better.<br>

Thanks!</p>

<p>m</p>