dfperrault
-
Posts
137 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by dfperrault
-
-
Paul,
You can try to fold the folded lens paper over a long Q-Tip. This may enable you to get better access. You may also just want to get the price to have the factory clean the mirror. I would remove the mirror as very last resort. Once you remove it, then you will have alignment problems.
Don
Don
-
Paul
Your optics still look like they are dirty. A misaligned mirror would most likely clip the image on one of the edges. I suspect if you were to shine a lamp at an angle to the optic you would see a haze on the surface.
Cleaning lenses and mirrors can be more difficult than one would expect. I use only an ultra high pure grade Methanol or Ethanol (>99.9% pure, spectrophotometric grade, or HPLC grade) you can get this at www.sigma-aldrich.com. It is expensive($50-60 w/ haz. shipping) but a 1-2 L bottle will last you a life time. It is safe on photographic mirrors and lens coatings. If you have a friend who works in a biotech/science lab he/she will surely have few oz. that they will gladly give to you.
Isopropanol from the drug store is 91% at best, the rest is mostly water. This will leave a residue behind from dirt and oils not dissolved by the alcohol and removed by the lens tissue. I have also never had any luck cleaning lenses with typical lens cleaning. However you may need to resort to lens cleaning fluid if you are in a hurry.
I agree with Bob, don't use Acetone regardless of purity. Dissolved plastic is near impossible to remove from optics mounted in an instrument. In additon, only use lens paper, cotton balls/swabs are course and may scratch optical coatings.
Cleaning an optic is an iterative process which takes me at least 3-4 times (each time with a new lens tissue) if the lens is only mildly dirty. First I fold a piece of lens tissue multiple times in one direction into a 10mm wide strip. I then fold the srtip in half in the other direction. Be careful not to touch the central portion of the paper with you fingers. Apply the solvent. Then gently wipe the surface of the optic in a serpentine pattern from top to bottom. Repeat this several times until clean (each time with a new sheet of paper). You should be able to get to the point were any solvent applied to the optic will evaporate without leaving any residue.
Let me know if you have anymore questions
Don
-
I am interested in trying to create an ametuer book of bound photos
printed on ink jet paper. Are there such do-it-yourself kits or
tutorials available?
Don
-
I tried both 16-bit and 16-bit linear. There wasn't much difference.
thanks
Don
-
Hi Gilles,
I have the same exact problem, as you have probably read already.
Don
-
I have tried to calibrate my Minolta 5400II scanner by scanning an
Ektachrome IT8 Target (W. Faust). I then create ICC file with AIM
Image FX free software. I am careful to scan in the slide (16-bit
linear) without any image enhancement from the Minolta scanner
software.
After I create the ICC file, I then open the orignial scanned IT8
image in photoshop. I then use image:mode:assign to assign ICC file
to orignial scanned IT8, which should match the colors of image to
the original IT8 slide. Instead, I get an overexposed image with a
magenta cast. My monitor is calibrated using Monaco XR pro.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Don
-
I have been using the R2400 to print color digital images on the Epson Premium Glossy paper for the past week. It took very little tweaking to get colors very similar to my calibrated monitor.
-
I would like to calibrate my Minolta 5400 II scanner with an IT8
target. There seems to be several options availible. I was
considering Vuescan but the dust removal feature doesn't seem to be
nearly as good as ICE 4 for my slides which is supplied with the
Minolta software. I have already calibrated my monitor with Monaco
XR pro.
<br>
<br>
Can anyone comment on the qualtiy of calibration with the following
programs, there maybe some others that I haven't listed.
<br>
<br>
1. InCamera Software
<br>
<br>
2. Silverfast
<br>
<br>
3. Monaco EZ color
<br>
<br>
thanks
<br>
<br>
Don
-
I am considering the purchase of the Epson 2200 printer. Will I have
significant problems with the jets clogging if not used for an
extended period of time? If so, how often should I make print to
minimize this problem.
Don
Monitor Calibration - Hardware or Software Control
in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing
Posted
I have an Eizo L778 monitor connected with a dvi cable to my
computer, which I am trying to calibrate with Monaco XR Pro.
When I run the Monaco calibration, I am asked to set the brightness
contrast, whitepoint and gamma on the monitor.
Which method should I use to adjust these values:
1. Hardware buttons on the front of the monitor.
2. Video card driver software adjustment located under control
panel:display:advanced settings:color
3. Eizo software control via USB connection from computer to monitor.
It is important to note that I can adj the contrast using the
software methods but not with the hardware buttons.Under all
condtions I would need to set the monitor temp to 6500K using the
front panel buttons.
Eizo recommends #2 the video card software adjustment. Monaco said
that I can only profile not calibrate the monitor using method#1
because the there is no front panel contrast adjustment. They did
not comment on the software methods.
I did try Method #1 and could only get an Av. dE=4, on the color
patch test which seems high. I suspect I should be able to get it
down to 1-2