don_minton1

The scale on the side of the bellows is, I assume, to compensate for

light fall-off at longer bellows extensions. My question is: Does

the 2x mean to double you exposure time (i.e. 1 stop) , or to

increase it by 2 stops?

Thx

This should be easy for anyone who has a manual...

What is the relationship between the two paralax adjustment lines at

the top of the waist level finder on the C220 (and C220F) and the

scale on the side of the bellows? For close focusing, the scale

reads, 1x up to 4x with a 55mm lens but there are only 2 lines in the

finder. Which scale readings do these 2 lines correspond to? I

understand that the lines are the top edge of the frame when close

focusing, but don't know which line to use when. And is there a rule

of thumb when extreme close focusing like in the 3x and 4x range?

thx,

don

If you go to the site KEH camera brokers at www.keh.com and navigate

to their online catalog, see what similar cameras they have and how

much they are asking. They are a used camera broker, I have found

them to be rather reliable . They have a grading scale with nice &

accurate definitions for NEW, EX+, EX, etc. Usually have a decent

selection, but lots of turnover - so they may have a similar set up

as above, or you can piece together the price from the "accessories"

section....

<p>

Wouldn't recommend their quote service, since they will quote you a

wholesale price and not an actual value. I have tried to get "value"

quotes from them but they always come back with wholesale quotes only

(what they would pay, not the open market).

I have several BASIC operation questions for my new old Minox B. 1st off,can anyone direct me to an online equivalent of a user's manual? (I've started poking around Sub Club and D Krehbiel's sites, but can't find these specifics yet...) otherwise, pls bear with me:

<p>

1. How do you reset the counter? Does it just go forever? I have yet to put film in it, but it looks like if you open & close the camera without taking a picture, it advances 1 frame anyway. Is this the case?

<p>

2. How many f-stops does the ND filter count for? And The yellow?

<p>

3. Am I assuming a correct aperture of f/3.5 based on the engraving on the front?

<p>

4. Am I missing something here? With a fixed aperture, you get one exposure setting per film speed, plus one additional for the ND filter, right?

<p>

5. How do you attach the chain? There is a little spring-loaded button on the end opposite the flash shoe, but it doesn't seem to do anything like pop out.

<p>

Thanks,

<p>

Don Minton

If this is one of those question to photographers analogous to the

"motoroil question" on the motorcycle bbs, I apologize in advance!!

The other day a friend and fellow amateur photographer said to me:

"Yeah, I used to use a C330, but the contrast of the lenses wasn't

good enough for my landscapes." Or something to that effect. And

3rd guy standing there agreed with him. Now he uses a Hasselblad.

So. Are the Mamiya TLR lenses "known" to be inferior in that

regard? Is it purely subjective? Or scientifically verifiable? I

took a look at _____'s empirical lens test data on the MFD, but was

merely confused. Is it all relative? Is a $2000 lens really 6 times

better than a $350 lens, or perhaps only 5-10% better? I'd like to

think the latter, if at all.

What are your collective thoughts/experiences/data on this (likely

sorry old) topic?

BTW, I have no intention of ditching my TLR collection for a "system"

system, but I was just curious about the topic.