peter_foiles2

<p>Check page 182 of the manual. Custom function IV-1 is what you want, I have mine set to 3 which will do what you want.</p>

<p>An excellant source of high quality CDs/DVDs is www.mam-a.com. Made in the US too. As for hard drives one option is get any of the major brands, Western Digital, Seagate, Hitachi and put it in a good external enclosure. Granite digital is one source but there are others. Otherwise WD and Seagate make external drives is you are not into the do it yourself approach.</p>

<p>I am not sure what "archival resolution" is but scanning old photos is not demanding on hardware. Any decent flatbed will do. As mentioned by another poster the quality of the software running the scanner is likely much more important.</p>

<p>Take a look at www.luminous-landscape.com, he follows the MF digital market and there articles and reviews that be of interest.</p>

<p>The usual way is to make sure the camera is not receiving any electriclal power. So remove the battery and if it has one the small backup battery (usually a small button type). Wait a few minutes and put everything back.</p>

<p>You do not mention if you are using Windows or Mac but in either case you have to extract the the update file from the file that you download, you can't use the downloaded file directly. If I remember correctly the extracted file has a .fir extension. Firmware update problems are almost always the result of not following the directions that come with the update. Print out the directions specific for your operating system and don't skip any steps.</p>

<p>RGB histograms on the 5D were not added by firmware upgrade but were present from day one, I set mine that way the day I bought it way back in Oct. 2005 (from the first batch shipped).</p>

<p>"by definition pictures with "Bokeh" using the selective focus technique"<br>

Wrong. To start, a photo is not with or without bokeh. A photo may be with or without out of focus areas but not bokeh. Selective focus simply means yoh have chosen to have some of the image in focus and some not. Out of focus blur is not bokeh. Repeat that sentance as many times as needed so that it is etched in your brain. The problem is not the terminology but you apparent inability to distinguish the distinctly different concepts represented by the different terms. "Selective focus" has meaning and makes sense, "selective bokeh" is meaningless and non-sensicle.</p>

<p>Bill, what is the specific problem with read-only support for DNG files? Canon's DPP does not have the option to write an edited cr2 file that I am aware of. Same is true AFAIK for other manufactures RAW software so I am having trouble understanding your objection.</p>

<p>The items Bob mentions are intended to be user replaceable parts and so it makes sense that you could buy replacements. The part you mention is not such a part and almost certainly not availabel to the public. How exactly do you plan to attach it so that is does not come off again? This is what warrenties are for.</p>

<p>Just reading the title my first thought was the 24/2.8 and after reading your full post I still think that is the best choice. Yes you can use adaptors and mount other lenses but street photography (for me at least) is a fast paced activity. Most who go the adaptor route are doing landscape work where the stop down metering, manual focusing routine is less of an issue. And yes the viewfinder will get quite dark when you stop down, why wouldn't it? To see with your current setup, set the camera to f8 or f11 and use the DOF preview button (see the manual if you are not familiar with this function.)</p>

<p>My copy of LR 2.2 converts my 5DII files no problem. I have also used the current version of DNG converter (a free download for anybody, Adobe customer or not) without issue. That Adobe only supports new cameras for current versions of their software is very old news and widely discussed on various forums for years now.</p>

<p>First, printing seria numbers on warrenty cards boxes is an automated barcoded process and the chance for error is extremely small.</p>

<p>Second, I believe most warrenties including Canon are to the original purchasor and are not transferable. So if purchasing used the only warrently you get is from the seller.</p>

<p>A chain is no stronger than its weakest link and the technical quality of a photograph is no better than the weakest of the image forming chain: lens, sensor, processing. As for the comments on noise reduction, if you care about image quality you should be shooting raw and then you are in control of the noise reduction.</p>

<p>Yes he is right but that does not necessarily mean that he is not trying to sell you more than you need. The slowest SD cards are slower than the Xsi can write but the fastest cards are faster than the Xsi can write. So what yo need is somethng in the middle. For SanDisk, their Extreme II line should be fine. The other part of the question is do YOU fire off bursts of 6 or so RAW files or 12 or so jpeg files in rapid succession. If you don't then you will never notice that your card is slow.</p>

<p>Five minutes for a conversion is way way too long even for a slow machine, something is amiss.</p>

<p>"the LX3, but that one is quite a big one too."<br>

Well if you consider the LX3 which is significantly smaller than the G10 too big as well then you are going to be forced to give up functionality to get an acceptable small camera.</p>

<p>If I understand your question correctly the answer is that it can't be done with the GX20 or any other currently available consumer digital camera. All digital cameras use sensors (including Foveon) with color filters on them which means they are natively collecting color information. You must a color file and then do the conversion either in the camera or your computer. Kodak did make a B&W camera a while back (DSC760 ?) and of course monochrome sensors are available for technical purposes but nothing you can go into a photo store and buy.</p>

Mark-

 

According to dxomark.com the LX3 has better DR than the G10.

I find it interesting that Michael P "had to settle for a body only box." My dealer received 4 kits on Fri with 4 bodies at the

local FedEx distribution center for Monday delivery. Three of the four kits had sold by Sat morning but the last was

available for anyone walking in the door because none of the 40+ people on the waiting list wanted a kit, all want bodies like

me. I am #3 in line so will be picking up my body after work on Monday :)

Its a function of the lens design, not the brand. Have you noticed how big the lens is when it is at 400mm vs when it is at

100mm? What about the volume of air inside the lens in those two situations? What happens is that when you zoom out to

400 you suck in air to fill the extra space. If the air has dust, well... This is true of any lens that changes size when you

zoom or focus. The bigger the lens the bigger the problem and the 100-400 is a big lens.

Ditto with the above but if you do decide to go Nikon the D700 would make more sense for your application than the D3.

First, photographing coins does not qualify as extreme macro, that would be photographing a fly's eye. Second, Michael has some good advice.

A Novisto

"Canon changed their mount?"

 

You missed that? Yes, in 1987 when Canon introduced the EOS system the lens mount changed from FD (breach lock) to EF (bayonet).

Since you know the person who gave you the camera and they had good results maybe you could ask for a lesson or two?