bestactionshots
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Posts posted by bestactionshots
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I have both 300/2.8LIS and 400/2.8LIS lens. 300 for small fields and 400 for large fields. They are great for night games.
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If you shoot a lot of sports 80% of your time then get 1D. Otherwise get 20D. Forget all the talk about weather sealing stuff. Ask them which sealed lens should you have on 1D. The 1D AF is faster but 20D is very close behind.
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With shooting HS sports, go with 20D and ditch 300D IMO.
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Repair costing less than brand new one.
I'll go with repair.
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20D quality in on the same scale as 1DmkII. Now as for Nikon D70, there's no competition. Canon has the best high ISO performance.
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I've found that it only cost $300 to replace shutter and count starts at 0. The main thing in buying used IMO is look for the best body condition. The shutter can be replaced after 240K clicks.
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It has CCD instead of CMOS sensor? Is this right?
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I use Neat Ninja to reduce noise. The largest I sold is 20x30 and it's looking okay. Noise is noticable. Anything smaller is good.
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They're all here for your viewing and disecting.<br>
<b><a
href="http://www.bestactionshots.com">WWW.BESTACTIONSHOTS.COM</a></b>
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Mine does rattle too. I don't have any problems with it in taking pictures for its quality.
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You're safer to invest in lots of lens. As for bodies, you use and once you're tired of it, there's Ebay for ya.
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20D ISO 50 is just like 100!
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I carried 17-40L and 70-200/2.8L lenses along with 20D.
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I have this same experience with my 135/2L in comparing to 200/2.8L lens. My 200 is focusing faster than 135 and I wonder if that's the case. 135 still delivers great quality but focus is a bit slower than I had expected.
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With more dynamic range in 20D you will see less sharpness in the edges. If you print both photos out you will see 20D has better color and DR than 300D.
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20D has CMOS and not CCD sensor. You need to clean the sensor IMO.
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Here's a person that went through this exercise:<br>
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Essentially, his 1D shutter crapped out at 240K actuations. <br>He paid $300 for Canon CPS to put in new parts and it's ready to go for another 240K shots round.
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You will need firewire, DPP, and 1D driver.
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You can check out my basketball games and see how 20D handle low lit gyms. Here's the link: <a href="http:www.bestactionshots.com/Osseo/Basketball/Boys">www.bestactionshots.com/Osseo/Basketball/Boys</a><br>
<img src="http://bestactionshots.com/Osseo/Basketball/Boys/20041130VNorthStPaul/20041130BKBV_0203.jpg">
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Price of 135/2L isn't too far from your dream lens 70-200/2.8L. It's about $150 or so.
I shoot with 200/2.8L and 100/2L.
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This is an excellent solution for on-site promotion.
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I don't think there's a real answer to this since Canon does not reveal the parameters coding. It's all guessing IMO.
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I've shot with 300D, 10D, 20D, and 1D. The 20D has the best dynamic range performance. Period. AF speed is closer to 1D. Better image for huge poster.<br>
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Can you do this 1600ISO with 1D or 10D?<br>
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<b>20D 1600ISO</b>
<img src="http://www.bestactionshots.com/Osseo/Hockey/Boys/20041202VAnoka/20041202HKBV_1014.jpg">
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I tested them both. Sold IS and keeping Non-IS. They are as equally sharp with Non-IS sharper just a tad if you're looking very close. I didn't sell IS because of sharpness. I just didn't need the IS since I'm shooting action sports and all my shots at 1/320 and faster. I've found I can handhold it still at 1/125 w/o IS and any slower I will have to use IS. Try them both and see which one fits your shooting style most.
old 1D mk1 v new 40D
in Canon EOS Mount
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