dave_yuhas

I'm trying to get email from my photo.net email address. What is the mailserver address?

I've been focusing on the surface of the gg for years. Prints are sharp.

<p>Light Waves in San Francisco says they have a ICG 380.</p>

Andrew -

 

Only you can know how much to underexpose. Do you want the leaves to be bright, dark or neutral?

 

You can calibrate your meter on a sunny day using the 'Sunny f/16' rule. Lots of information about this topic on the web.

>>One of the recent shots I took was in a forest and I was taking a shot of a gap between to rock walls. So in the gap there was very little light and not mention in the forest there isn't a whole lot of light either, but the leaves in the forest were lit up by the sun. When I looked at the shot the sunlit leaves were overexposed and the shot in general was kind of dull or washed out. What would I do in this situation, get a reading off the leaves or the sky?<<

 

Your camera's meter is a reflected light meter. Walk up to the leaves and measure the reflected light. You then have to make a decision on how bright you want the leaves in the neg/slide.

 

There is no such thing as a perfect exposure.

 

I recommend you read John Shaw's Nature Photography Field Guide.

You meter the sky (north sky between 10am and 2pm) because it's the equivalent of gray card. You then have to ask yourself whether your subject is brighter or darker than a gray card and adjust exposure accordingly. Or you can just use the 'Sunny f/16' rule. Or meter the palm of your hand and subtract a stop or two.

 

These indirect methods of metering are used when you can't walk up to the subject and take a meter reading. And, even when you can, you still have to make a judgment about the relative reflectivity of the subject. Would you use the meter reading when metering a bright snow field?

 

I have no idea what the 'CLC System' is.

Check out Tubes at http://www.tubesnow.com/. Creates a secure network between desktops.

"The suggestion that you get the same filmed scanned by each vendor and compare the results is sound."

 

Maybe it is, but maybe it isn't. There are so many variables involved (is the operator having a bad day?) that one test is not a large enough sample.

"saturated, yet muted, artsy"

 

Shoot in subdued light with a judicious use of artificial light.

>i was hoping the experts could give me some pointers.

 

I'm not an expert, but I play one on TV. If not blowing out Clouds Rest was important, you should have based your exposure on it. Meter it and open up 1.5 or 2 stops. Personally, I would have used negative film, or waited for less contrasty light.

As long as you don't have a problem, printroom is good. Otherwise, customer service is a joke.

I recently bought the A100. No problems with the 28-85 lens.

I was there in July a few years ago. Lots of flowers.

If you want the ultimate in quality, you could do worse than West Coast Imaging. For better prices, I've had good luck wity myphotopipe.com.

 

Dave

"Hold down the Alt key (Windows) or Options key (Mac OS) when starting Lightroom."

 

That should be the Ctrl key.

Pro Show Gold, the less expensive version of Pro Show Producer, allows you to pause the show as long as you can use a mouse.

When the metal end of the film got stuck in my holder, I didn't know about the S K Grimes instructions. I just took it apart and put it back together. Why you need a credit card and rubber bands is beyond me.

Turn them around and you have a dappled background. Reflector panels cause squinting. Ideal solution would be a scrim.

 

Dave

IMatch. Very powerful searching capability.

 

Dave

Maxwell -

 

You could try http://www.adorama.com/FSPLA325O.html?searchinfo=print%20protector&item_no=19

 

Dave

Have a look here: http://www.largeformatphotography.info/lenses4x5.html

 

Dave

You've already gotten a response about selection. I have to ask, why would you want to increase the saturation of _anything_ in the background? Why detract from the portrait?

 

Would you be Ruben Salcedo, the musician in Pacifica?

 

Dave

Jonathan - I'm going to photograph the slot canyons near Page. In my research I've found sources that say a magenta filter is definitely required and others who claim the opposite.

 

Knowing that a 2.5M is all that is required, I'll probably forget it and so the correction, if any, in PS.

 

Thanks.

 

Dave

Fuji recommends a '2.5M' filter, but all I can find are '25M' filters. Is a

'2.5M' and a '25M' the same filter?

 

Thanks.

 

Dave

Nadine Ohara - ND filters don't do anything to help in this regard except allow you to use wider apertures.

 

ND filters _might_ allow you to use a shutter speed that is compatible with your flash, assuming a focal plane shutter.