snapshooter

<p>It may be worth your while to check out the specifications on the recently introduced, Canon 70D. DPreview should have all the latest on it by now.</p>

<p>Doug Bays. My first Leica was a 111f with a 50mm f/3.5 Elmar lens. It was the 2nd prize in a National photography contest, sposored by Canadian Photography magazine, Sportsmans Show/Toronto Star, in 1956. I foolishly let it go when I started acquiring the M series bodies and lenses a couple years later.</p>

<p>Choice of camera / format/film or digital is generally personal, and most often dictated by the photographic subject field which generates his/her income. A photographic education is the prerequisite. With that, you have at least laid the groundwork to be able to use and understand the creative tools within all cameras, whether they be 8X10 View cameras,medium format film and digital, or 35mm film and DSLR's.<br>

If you've yet to learn the interrelationship between Lens Apertures, Shutter speeds and ISO speeds, you're best off with a modestly priced film or digital 35mm type camera with FULL Manual controls. Most everything now has Auto and/or Program included anyway. Lens interchangeability is an advantage, but not necessary in early stages as most Digitals have limited Zoom capability.</p>

<p>It's an excellent lens. Just not necessarily an everyday/general subjects lens. I bought mine primarily for the vast and spectacular landscapes of the U.S. Southwest, and I don't get there that often.<br>

Just mount it and use it as if you had no other option, and try some of the tips already written above. Make use of interesting foreground objects, incorporate them in street scenes as well as landscapes or even extreme close-ups.<br>

The day after you sell it, you'll need it where nothing else will suffice :-)</p>

<p>EISENSTADT - "Witness To Our Time". - Viking.<br>

KARSH - FACES of our TIME. - Toronto.<br>

LIFE GOES TO WAR. - Little, Brown.<br>

THE PORTFOLIOS OF ANSEL ADAMS - NewYork Graphic Society.<br>

All are outstanding. Karsh is superb.<br>

Doug Bays.</p>

Hi Linda.

 

You mentioned that you were thinking of a normal lens as a starter. The kit lenses, generally 18mm to 55mm zoom include the Normal focal length within their zoom range. I know it's confusing, as the enlargement factor of the recorded image varies between camera manufacturer systems.

For instance, Canon's mid range cameras use sensors with a 1.6 enlargement factor, so buying a 50mm lens which is considered normal for a 35mm film camera becomes 50mm times 1.6 = 80mm and is no longer a Normal lens, but a Medium Telephoto. It is also a fixed, single focal length, which is somewhat limiting.

You will have much more flexibility, and opportunity to practice and learn composition, particularly with subjects over which you have no control.

Don't misunderstand me. A high speed 50mm lens makes a great portrait lens. They're relatively inexpensive

(around $100.) and well worth adding to your compliment of lenses, but have limited use in general photography.

 

All digital SLR's have fully manual operation capability while still providing you with the correct metered exposure to use as a starting point when you wish to deliberately over or under expose a subject for artistic reasons or effect.

They also provide Aperture and Shutter priority modes, allowing you to select a lens opening to control Depth of Field, or a specific Shutter Speed to Stop or Blur Action, and still provide the correct exposure automatically.

Those are the most useful, creative modes, and probably the best way to learn the inter-relationship between Aperture and Shutter Speed.

 

If you haven't already found good "Photographic Fundamentals" tutorials, I have a few in my files that I've compiled for others. Your welcome to them if you're comfortable with email.All the best in your quest. I still think the Rebel XSi is the best available and within your budget at $799. or less.

Doug.

 

[e-mail address deleted. It's not a good idea to publicly post your e-mail address. Spambots will seek you out.]

Hi Linda. There are so many very good cameras classified as Entry Level DSLR's that you could get just as many answers. From what you wrote, I would recommend the Canon EOS Rebel XTi or its more recent successor, the Rebel XSi (also called the 450D) with their kit lenses. The newest version comes with more megapixels (not a big deal) and with a newer version (Image Stabilisation) 18-55mm (28,8 -88mm )zoom lens.This nicely covers the most used/needed focal length range from quite wide (landscapes and groups) to medium telephoto (ideal for portrait).

The XSi(450) does have a few advanced features handed down from the higher priced semi-pro versions and while they're well worth having, if price is a deciding factor, the Rebel XTi has everything you need. The lens is the same focal length range but without the Image Stabilization. You may still be able to find this model available at a considerably reduced price. However,be sure to get both prices. Should the difference be no more than $100. or so, then the XSi(450D) would be well worth the added expense.

I don't think I missed any of the commentary but I'm still at a loss as to the understanding of High Dynamic Range Imaging.

Those still using film already know that properly exposed, it produces a significantly greater tonal range than is currently available in digital. Digital cameras and sensors capture far more than their electronics can successfully transfer to a computer. They were originally designed to handle a maximum 9 f/stop range, whereas the human eye and good lenses are capable of about 24. Nothing new about HDR. It was developed within the scientific community over 20 years ago and only recently adapted for general photography. If the new formats are accepted by the JPEG group we'll probably be seeing cameras within the next year or two that will significantly close the film/digital gap.

If you're interested in something that could be applied to past files and color print scans using a single file you might want to check out this software developer.

 

<< http://www.mediachance.com/hdri/index.html >>

 

and

 

<< http://www.mediachance.com/plugins/redynamix.html >>

 

The first link is to the full HDR program which can handle both Multi Bracketed exposures or a single file.

The second is for a PhotoShop compatible plug-in designed soley for single file processing.

 

Both have unlimited trial periods with watermarks placed on Saved files. All updates are free to registered users, and if you've already tried a half dozen others, you're in for a surprising treat.....and NO, I have no affiliation with MediaChance. He simply writes great software.

Another Samsung SyncMaster - 245BW. Good software , Native resolution of 1920 X 1200, DVI or VGA and in the $330. range.

5 ms response. Top reviews.

Stephanie.

Here's a shot with the 10-22mm extreme wide angle. No fisheye effect. Great for land/seascapes.<div></div>

I gave much thought to adding a smaller bodied XTi to my arsenal. Using 300D's and a 20D for some time, it definitely felt awkward at first, and I don't have large hands. I had the option of trying the XTi for an extended period, and returning it if unsatisfactory.

I found I adapted to it very quickly and switch constantly between the 20D and XTi in the field, with no difficulty whatsoever. It is lighter constructed than the 20D/40D, but if you're not banging them around, it's not an issue.As for the feature differences, other than the second control wheel, there's nothing of significant consequence about which to be concerned.

The difference in dollars would go well toward the 10-22mm (16-35mm) wide angle, which is excellent, and expensive.

I also thought about the inevitable significant savings on the 30D when the 40D was yet to be released, but became completely comfortable with the XTi so quickly, I have no regrets. The 17-55mm IS or the 17-85mm IS lenses are both excellent for most anything, Stephanie.

Sorry, Andrew. Forgot the shot. If you want to see a variety, you can check my gallery as most were shot with the 18-55mm lens.

Regards.

Doug.<div></div>

Sorry to hear you decided on the XT over the XTi. The technical improvements, a number of which are direct hand-downs from the 30D make it a much better buy. As for the 18-55mm kit lens... there's nothing wrong with it. I've used it for three years right along with other Canon lenses that cost more than the entire camera/lens kit combined. If you're using ISO 400 as do most profesionals, the lens speed is of little consequence. Most dealers will let you try the lens. Buy a CF card, which you will need regardless of final choice, shoot some test shots and take the card home and process it where you can see the results. You can do that with both lenses you have in mind.

Here's a shot taken with the 18-55mm and the only change is to Sepia as it was shot in a desert ghost town.

Hi Jarek.

 

You probably know that there is some loss with cropping, when you correct perspective distortion.I'm including a link to a very handy (FREE) utility called ShiftN. Only takes 3 clicks for a fully automatic correction and Save function, with an addition in the title of the Saved copy. There is also a 4th button for Manual correction over-ride, if you wish to retain or exaggerate some of the distortion.

......................................................................

 

http://www.dirfile.com/downloadnow_shiftn_freeware.html

 

Regards.

Doug (baysmeister@gmail.com)

For the requirements that you mentioned, a camera holster, designed for zoom lenses would probably be the most convenient. Nothing to carry. Just strap it on like a cowboy gun holster, and you have nothing swinging around, and both hands are free.

Mine are Soligor(most DSLR's) and Optex(longer version for 75-300mm), each on their own wide, quick release nylon belts. Any good camera store should be able to find them for you, if they don't stock them. They really are ideal for just wandering around, climbing, etc. They have braided nylon/leather hinged tops for weather protection, which also have quick release/seat belt type locks, but naturally, much smaller.I've had mine for about 20 years, and they still look like new. They weren't very expensive, either.

I don't know if this has a direct bearing on the 3/3 issue. but today I happened to check my VIEW RATINGS page, and there is something radically wrong.

I noticed many names with which I was not familiar, and started loading the photographs.I had never seen them, nor rated them.

After the first couple, I decided to go through the entire list, as I had checked the date, and both were OCT. 5/2006.

I found "19" entries I had never before Seen, Critiqued, or Rated, and all on that same date. 5 OCT. 2006.

At first, I was looking for 3/3's and 4/4's, but I noticed that many had higher ratings.

I don't know what is happening or how, as I'm not that computer literate, but I never forget a picture, good or bad, and never rate without commenting.To me, either there is a bug in the system, or someone is manipulating it. It's well beyond my expertise, but all, with two exceptions, I had never before, seen, commented or rated.

I'm nor sure I have ever had a photo rated, that didn't have at least one 3/3. It has always made me curious, and a bit frustrated, as they are always anonymous. This deprives me of seeing their work, so I might learn something from it, as they fail to offer any constructive criticism. All Art is purely subjective, so the numbers carry little weight with me. Constructive criticism from knowledgeable artists, possibly those that hand out the 3's, could be of inestimable value, if in fact, they do posess the talent. Just something I've often wondered about.

The Canon 10-22 is an excellent lens, and considering it's coverage angle, surprisingly free of "Fisheye effect", and can produce moderate panoranic shots on one frame.

I'll attach a recent shot, that took four panning frames to capture the same area, using an 18-55 lens.<div></div>

With any lens, at any aperture, the only point that is theoretically, perfectly sharp, is the single point at which you focused.

Depth of Field is the Acceptably Sharp area from the point focused upon, and lies roughly 1/3rd in front of the focus point and 2/3rds beyond. The Ratio remains the same, regardless of the lens or aperture being used, and the area of acceptable sharpness increases proportionately with each smaller aperture.

Therefore, Focusing on infinity is a WASTE OF DEPTH OF FIELD, as only the 1/3rd area in front of Infinity will be acceptably sharp.

In effect, you lose the 2/3rds to the rear of the point of focus, as there is nothing beyond Infinity.

Go with the 20 - 35, and if you can find a good deal, pick up the 10 - 22mm.

Hi Jarek.You've got a lot of questions and not very much specific information, but I'll have a go at this.

If you're not a professional, there is no particular advantage in processing Raw images, unless you plan on making huge poster sized prints.

Your monitor, if 4 years old or less, should work well at default settings(Reset).

If it's an older LCD, or either, for that matter, there's a free program to calibrate your monitor, (ADOBE GAMMA), which you can find through Google.

You may find another FREE photo editor, much more user friendly, which incorporates all of the most needed enhancing tools, and all in real time, and considerably faster than PhotoShop, PSP, and many other top rated editors.

The aforementioned are excellent, but not particularly user friendly, and have a significant learning curve. Corel PSP X or X1 have a much improved Learning Palette,which remains available on the left border, and walks you through any tool application you select.

The FREE editor, that will handle most needs for 95% of photographers work is PhotoFiltre http://www.photofiltre.com/ .

For even faster access to the entire editing process, you can integrate Canons Zoom Browser, with PhotoFiltre, and toggle back and forth with each new workpiece.

If any of this interests you, you can contact me at < baysmeister@gmail.com >

Hi Darrell.

It is a superb scanner, higher resolution than many, if not most other scanners.

Will do 35mm strips, both positive and negative, colour and B/W.Separate Film holders for 35mm negs, 35mm slides, and another for 120 film(2 1/4 X whatever), in other words, square or rectangular negs.

It also has capabilities to minimize dust, cracks, folds, etc, and generally produces a better result than you started with.

Has excellent Software package included.

 

I tested a 4400F for a couple of weeks, but it held fewer negs and slides, so I bought the 8400, which also included the 120 film format.

You can scan as many pics , negs or slides that will fit the scanner, at one time, and save them all as separate files.

 

The next model up, I believe its the 9400F, will also handle 4X5, but I found the price jump prohibitive, and didn't have enough use for 4X5, to warrant the extra.

You'll love it.

Regards. Doug Bays.

Doug Bays.

 

After many decades, shooting only film, I'd use a higer ISO as standard practice, ie ISO 400, as it will give you a greater safety margin, in both aperture and shutter speed.

Where you have the time to be creative, then the subject dictates whether TV or Av is appropriate.(Action vs Depth)

I most definitely disagree. The Summaron if it is an original is 50 years old and although good in it's day never equalled the Summilux.

Granted, a high speed wide angle, even by Leica is always going to have deficiencies at maximum aperture, but the benefits outweigh them.

If you're going to run a test, it should be on precisely the same subject and the same apertures starting at the maximum aperture of the slowest lens. Then shoot the same subject at the wider apertures of the Summilux.

Here's a shot at 480mm hand held, and I was moving a lot more than the deer. It's also cropped to about 20% of the full frame.<div></div>