g_t3

<p>Check out the link here: http://cgi.ebay.com/EMF-AF-Confirm-Pentax-67-Lens-Lens-Canon-EOS-Adapter-/200523656598?pt=Lens_Accessories&hash=item2eb0242d96<br>

This one even confirms when the the lens is focused!!</p>

<p>On ebay, there are a few sellers selling adapter that will convert a Pentax PK 67 Mount lenses to Canon or Nikon mounts.</p>

<p>Since I have a suite of Pentax 67 lenses, so I thought it might be a fun thing to give it a try. However, when I posted the question to the seller, he seems to have no idea!!! </p>

<p>So, does any one on this forum know? I did a google search, but nothing really helpful came up.</p>

<p>Thanks!</p>

 

<p>Hey Doug,<br>

Once again, thanks a lot for your very insightful comments!!! I was just taking photos in my living room, which is not a big room, with no particular subject in mind. will try and experiment again with slower shutter and at least I can see something on the film just to make sure it is not a camera problem... lots of things to learn!! And thanks a lot for your input!</p>

<p>G</p>

<p>Hi Oliver, yes, I am sure I didn't mess up during the development, as only 4 frames were used with the flash, the rest of the film strip showed up fine.</p>

<p>Jim, I will try the method you just mentioned. Thanks.</p>

<p>Hi Doug,<br>

Well, the lens work when I was not using the flash, so I assume the shutter is working. The film speed is 100 and the aperture was wide open at F3.5. I thought the flash sync at any speed up to 1/500 so I didn't remember what speed I was using.. would that be the problem?</p>

<p>Thanks!</p>

<p>Hi, I was playing around with my SQ and Sunpak for the first time. I plugged the PC Cord to the X-Sync socket and pressed the shutter on the Bronica, the flash fired with no problem. However, the photos (B&W) that I developed were all totally dark (the frames are all transparent). Can someone give me a few hints on what went wrong? thanks!</p>

<p>Agree with David. You can also purchase Lynda.com series of video tutorial</p>

<p>I can't agree with Jim M more.. "For me MF shooting is a more slow, deliberate & contemplative process than 35mm semi-auto firing or digital full-auto machine gunning" You got into the MF world for a reason, what is it?</p>

<p>Doug Fisher's scanning solution for my Epson 4990 sounds great, but just way too expensive.. Will get some Gepe mounts, remove the ANR glass, use it as a flattener on the OEM film carrier and see what happen..</p>

<p>Hi David,<br>

Yeah, I do suspect that Gepe glasses are too thin and light to hold the film in place on the scanner.<br>

Hi CD, thanks for sharing..</p>

<p>Ferdi,<br>

Thanks for the info and instruction! That is exactly I want to do, remove the glass from the mount and put it on the Epson film carrier as a weight and ANR glass... but from your instruction, it sounds like it is tedious to do that and the glass might not even be 6X6, which means it won't fit the width of the Epson film carrier.</p>

 

<p>Hi Michael,<br>

I see them here -- http://www.gepe.com/website/index.asp?pageID=167 they are available in their online store.<br>

So, can I confirm that the glass can be removed easily from these slide mounts? My intention is to use the glasses removed from these mounts and put them on top of the Epson scanner's 4990 film carrier, as to add weight to the film, thus flatten out the negatives...<br>

Thanks</p>

<p>In looking for ANR glass (looking for alternative beside Doug Fisher's film holder and ANR), I came upon the Gepe 6x6 slide mount. From reading on the Gepe's website, I understand that each mount came with ANR glasses. I am just wondering if anyone has tried scanning with the ANR glass alone?<br>

I have an Epson 4990, and I really do not like the 6X6 film holder that came with the scanner: It always takes me a lot of fiddling around to put the 120 on the holder properly, i.e. making sure the films are properly seated and flat. So I was wondering if it is feasible to use the ANR glass that comes with Gepe mount to flatten the film. I have never seen or used a Gepe slide mount before, so I am seeking your advice. If it is feasible, does the glass come off easily from the Gepe mount? Is the size of the glass 6X6? I know there is also an 6X7 version. Would putting on the glass affecting the scanner functionality (knowing that the film holder is 1mm thick). <br>

Thanks a lot in advanced.. and hope this is not a stupid idea..</p>

<p>Hi Kenny,<br>

Thanks for your recommendations -- will send them in for services. Unfortunately, the strip has been cut up and scanned.</p>

 

<p>Hi Kenny,<br>

But the crank on the magazine must have done something when I used it to advance to 1. Just that it might not have done anything when I cranked it with the dark slide in, yet the number went to 4. And when I realized that I was winding the wrong crank (it does look like the Bronica crank, just smaller :) ) and started winding the film transport through the knob on the body the film started to advance again, that is why frames 8-12 were blank. I don't know.. it must be a bad magazine -- since the frames came out overlapping a bit, it is in for a service.</p>

<p>Hi Ronald,<br>

Honest to god, I took note of where I took the photos, and the order .. you 8-12 were blank 1-7 do have the images. While I might not be familiar with Hassy, I do own and use Bronica SQA, Pentax 67 and Yashica 124G, that is why I was perplexed by this film strip. <br>

Hi David,<br>

The image I took on UPSIDE DOWN in the order I took them.</p>

<p>Thanks to those who has replied to my previous post. I tried a second roll to confirm the spacing problem. This time I follow the instruction to the word on the manual, made sure the paper backings were tight on the spools and arrow lined up. And again, the frames came out overlapped again on the second roll.<br>

However, I did make a mistake shooting this roll. Unfamiliar with the operations, I first forgot to pull the dark slide out so I couldn't release the shutter. In my fumble of trying to figure out what went wrong, I wound the crank on the magazine to frame 4 without taking a shot. Then I realized it was the slide, so I pulled the slide out and was able to finish the rest of the roll.<br>

To my puzzlement, I look at the film strip after I developed it, the unexposed frames were at the end of the film strip!!! It is as I cranked the magazine, the counter advanced, but the film did not move a bit, until I started to using the big transporting knob on the body to advance film and cock the shutter.<br>

Is it normal?? Or just simply another symptom of a bad magazine??<br>

Anyway, this magazine is a due for a service definitely.</p>

<p>Thanks!</p>

<p>Hi Edward,<br>

Yeah, I noticed the metal tab while I was loading the film and made sure that the paper backing was underneath it.. however, since this is the first time loading film into a Hasselblad (I've been using other cameras such as Bronica SQA, Pentax 67 and Yashica 124G), I may have left too much slack.  I did try to "tighten" up the film using the spool clip in the take up spool.<br>

Thanks for the advices  -- being in China right now is not easy to get a CLA.  Will have to bring the camera back the next time while I go home to the US and send to David Odess.</p>

<p>Hi All,<br>

Thanks to QG and photo.net users, I've got the manual for the 500C and found that the meter knob is giving me pretty good reading comparing to my Minolta IV handheld meter.   I tested one roll of B&W film and has just finished developing them.   Looking at the film, the exposure seems ok.   However, I was at first worry about the tensioned shutter, I noticed that I did not have to wind the first frame to get a shot.   So I think the shutter was tensioned for years before the previous owner sold it to me on ebay.     Is this common practice to leave the shutter tensioned until the next roll is loaded?<br>

Anyway,  to my dismay, frames 3 and 4,  5 and 6 were overlapped, and frames 7, 8 and 9 were also overlapped.    The overlapping area is about 0.5cm between the frames.  And the spacing between 4 and 5, and 6 and 7 is bigger than normal.<br>

I loaded the film with the manual next to me and I *think* I had done the loading correctly.   The winder on the magazine and the knob seems to work pretty smoothly.   Can someone give me a clue as to what is wrong?   I will try to shoot another roll later to see if there is similar problem...</p>

<p>Thanks in advaced!</p>

<p> </p>

Hi QG,

 

I used IE to download the manual -- it stopped at 99%. Then I tried to download again. The downloader picked up what was already downloaded and continued with the remaining 1%. So I have the 500C manual now. Perhaps the network was having problem.... anyway, thanks a lot!

Hi Jim, thanks for the info.

 

Hi QG, I downloaded with Firefox, and then again using Firefox Flashgot plugin and I am using Adobe Acrobat Reader 9.0.0. I also just use adobe reader plugin inside Firefox, all with the same problem. However, I have to say, I am using Windows XP simplified Chinese version.. so perhaps that is the problem. And thank to you and other contributors, Hasselblad Historical site is very informative and such a great site to help a novice like me.

 

I did find a 500C manual from M. Butkus's site and another and their version seem to open fine. I will continue to try to see if I can get a version from Hasselblad Historical. Thanks a lot for your help!!!!

QG, by the way, I tried to download the 500C manual from the website you gave me, the file will get an error when I tried to open it with Adobe Acrobat Reader. And if you were to just click on the link and open it in a web browser, the file will stop at 6.98MB and stop downloading. I tried to write to the webmaster on the site, but can't find the email address. Then I noticed there is a Q.G.'s V-System Close-Up Calculator, and thought you probably is a contributor, if not the owner of the site... so I am notifying you and perhaps you can fix it.

 

Thanks a lot!!!

 

 

cc Stuart, I do have a Pentax 67, but for the Hassy, it doesn't work the same way. I noticed the grooves QG pointed out and thought they were designed for coin, but didn't dare to try.

Thanks QG!!! That was a fast response and thanks the link to the manual.

Hi all,

 

I just got a Hasselblad 500C which comes with a metering knob. I've been looking for a manual for this meter,

but couldn't find one. In any case, how difficult can using a meter be anyway? Well... Without fearing of

breaking something, I can't figure out how to slide the ASA scale to set it to the film I am using.. Help please?

 

Thanks in advanced!

Doug,

 

Thanks, I knew the arrow meant something, but didn't want to force anything. I just use my nail and put the metal "layer" below the arrow and it works!

 

Thanks!

 

GT