sean_wholey1

Hi,

I use a Nikon D50 and mainly I shoot artistically and to document my travels. I

do not need speed from a memory card but more so durability especially in

climate changes. I have a Transend 2gb 150x already and so far so good with that

but I would like a second card, for longer trips, probably another 2gb. Is there

much difference compared with Sandisk? Am I better of spending a little more for

an Ultra? Thanks!

Sean

I was asked to shoot black and white portraits that must be enlarged

to 16"x20" for black and white gallery display. They will be shot

indoors with flash. I have an Nikon F90X with an SB-28, a Mamiya 645

Protl with no flash, and a Nikon D70s. I was definately gonna use the

D70 with I guess the SB28 (which I'll need to test with), but I have

no other flash for the Mamiya. Does anyone know if these are

compatible? Also if I make prints in my darkroom from my F90X(35mm)

and if I have those prints professionally scanned and enlarged to

16"x20", would they be decent enough to show in a gallery? Thanks for

any advice.

Yeah, I just need to do some test printing. I'm new to digital and I'm nervous about seeing my first prints. You know, how they'll stand up to my 35mm and medium format darkroom work. How they compare. I'm actually not super needy when it comes to sharpness either but I like my main subject at least to be tight and contrasty. Think Ilford FP4.

Also, what would the minimum dpi have to be for acceptible clarity at say 20"x24"?

I have a D50 and I remember reading somewhere that 6 megapixels is all

you need to print BIG. I would like to print up to 24 inches. If I

have a nice lens, and shoot in RAW format, is it possible to get

gallery worthy and clear and sharp images at this size? Thanks.

Hi. I need help guessing an appropriate processing time for an ISO200

speed film called Phota. I believe it's European. That's how I

remember the box, which I can't find now of course. I bought it when I

was in Vietnam when I thought I was going to run out of Ilford FP4.

Well, I never did and so I brought it home. Well, it's in my camera

now and I just shot ten frames of about 45seconds after an eighteen

wheeler slammed into an overpass. It was a total mess and the pictures

(if they come out) should be awsome because I got up on the brige and

shot down. I use Kodak's HC110 as my developer. I was thinking maybe

using AGFA's 200 film as my guide because they're also European and

200 speed. Any thoughts? Thanks.

Sean

I've read much about how awsome Nikon's manual 2.8 28mm AI-S is and

I've read the lens construction is different on the new AFD but how

much is the visual difference of the negatives/prints? I'm sure the

older ones are of a more heavy duty construction but is the

glass/element design superior as well? Which is better overall and why

if I usually shoot film and have the time to focus manually? Also does

anyone know for sure what the serial number range is for the AIS

lenses? Thanks a lot!

Cool Troy, I hope you're right! I'll give it a shot. Thanks all!

Yeah I've definately got charged batteries in the SB-28. What's this about the

300vdc? My sb-28 manual says the SD-8a also works with alkaline batteries.

What's the deal? The flash is working fine and then when i plug in the SD-8A ,

no light comes on the unit. The flash still works though i'm assuming it's

running on the batteries that are in the flash.

I got his thing used in supposedly excellent condition with no manual. It

looked like a really simple device so I slacked on testing it. Well now I need it

very soon and I can't figure it out! I've correctly loaded fresh alkaline batteries

into it and turned both my F90X and my SB-28 on. I'm expecting to see a red

light come on on the SD-8A am I right. Is it on or is it defective?

Thanks.

Sean

Thanks Jim,

I just ordered an 50mm 1.8D AF from B+H new for $94. That's in my price

range, and from what I've been reading the difference between it and the 1.4

is like splitting hairs (not much). Big price difference though. Hopefully with

some practice low light shooting should get much easier. Thanks again

everyone!

Hey thanks everyone for all your help. I decided to buy an SB-28 from

KEH.com for $107, thanks to Jeff H.'s reccomendations as well as my own

research. I also purchased a stroboframe ($32 from Shutterblade.com) with

the flip feature and an sc-17 cord ($32 from KEH.com) thanks to Todd Peach's

advice. There is so much to consider. I'm also looking at the 50mm 1.4D

lenses also but maybe I'll wait and see how the flash system works out first.

Thanks again everyone!

I bought a used but mint F90X for $200. It's been great as a travel 35mm body,

but every now and then I help a friend as a backup wedding photographer.

I've had a lot of trouble during dark receptions attaining focus. I use a Sunpak

555 flash which has no infra red assist. My friend's brother has and older N90

which has the AF assist illuminator. When I've borrowed this camera, I've had

a much easier time. I really shouldn't borrow his camera too much more but

do I need to get another Nikon af film body just for weddings. I know I don't

want to spend more than a couple hundred dollars. Maybe my solution could

be purchasing another flash, prefferably one mounted on a bracket. Any

suggestions?

I shoot mostly black and white. I just went autofocus buying an Nikon F90X

coming from an F3/FE background. I love using red filters for more dramatic

skies and contrast. I recently read that many color filters though throw off the

matrix metering system in the F90X and therefore you are left with less

predictable results. Does anyone know about this and if so what are some

applicable color filters and their specs. If it helps, I will be using an AF Nikkor

28-85mm, and an AF Nikkor 70-210 D. Thanks.

Thanks Greg. I just need to learn more about TTL and whether or not it's right

for me. The SB-20 definately seems to go for more money and has a higher

demand on Ebay. I could save money by just turning off the TTL feature and

practice using manual. Being compact and versitile are the main issues.

Hey, how about the sb-20? It looks compact, tilts for bouncing, TTL, and can

be used for tele and wide. Any thoughts? Thanks.

Sorry guys, I was just hoping for more opinions and I wanted to rephrase my

question so as to not stress the flash being TTL. I'm looking into the sb-22

now, thanks. I'm really new to flash photography.

I'm looking for a compact flash unit that works well with mainly my F3 and

potentially with my FE which is my backup. This is for travelling overseas so

size and versitality is the most important features, but also be able to

illuminate well between ranges of 28mm to 105mm tele. Also prefer one that

tilts for bouncing. I'm looking at either the sb-17, sb-18, or the sb-24 right now.

Leaning more towards the 24 or the 17 because they seem to give more

control. Although I might pick up an 18 also just to play with and because

they're cheap. I have a Vivitar 285 which gives good results but it's way too

big. Any ideas? How about metz flashes?

Can anyone reccomend a good all around COMPACT flash that I could take

on travel shoots for use with my Nikon F3HP and possibly also use with an

FE. I know the hot shoe on the F3 might need an adapter. Please include this

info. I shoot documentary style photography anywhere fro 28mm to 105mm. I

need something that could cover this range, tilt and diffuse and that could also

fit in a pocket. Thanks

I am planning two trips this year, one to Nicaragua and one to Vietnam. I

usually take two Nikon bodies and three lenses but I'm considering bringing

my Mamiya 645protl with three lenses instead to get bigger negs but it makes

me nervous not having a backup camera if something jams etc. I have heard

of the damage that sand has on cameras, but how about the air near the

ocean. Last trip I took to Belize, I brought the Nikon, and my Rollie tlr and the

Rollie jammed for the first time during a shoot on the beach. I was as careful

as I could be to not get sand near the cameras but it still jammed. What's the

risks and consequences, and what's your opinion on bringing only the

Mamiya that's never given me problems as opposed to bringing my Nikons F3

and FE? Thanks.

I've bought a Mamiya protl and I use both the AE prism finder and the waist

finder. I really don't care for the prism that came with the body because I find

the texture collar more obtrusive than being helpful. I like the rangefinder for

critical focusing but I also liked having a grid when I've shot weddings with a

borrowed camera. I feel it really helps remind me of the bounderies of the

frame itself, making sure lines are parallel and feet aren't cut off.

The grid screen that Mamiya puts out, A4, has a circle but not a rangefinder.

Then I was looking into the Beattie screens (which have both in one) I read all

kinds of conflicting reviews and warnings. If I had to choose between the grid

and the finder I think I would pick the finder. Can anyone shed some light on

this whole Intenscreen/Brightscreen controversy. What's REALLY going on?

Is it just name smearing or are the Intenscreens really made upside-down?

Are the Mamiya B style screens bright enough for me? They are definately

Cheaper!

Thanks a lot!

It seems that using Al's technique of reversing the curl is working the quickest.

Today I was able to make multiple prints for the extended family of our holiday

group photos I shot with my Rolleiflex. I had them rolled inside out and stored

in cut strips in metal cannisters which I set on a shelf a few inches up from a

radiator. It's still curly but better than before and much easier to handle. Still I'd

have to say even though the image quality is to my liking, the fact that it curled

up the way that it did, I'll probably never want to deal with Bergger film again.

thanks again to everyone for your help.

Well thanks to everyone for your responses. I was unable to find any solution

at Freestyle that flattens negatives. Maybe you were thinking of Edwal's fiber

print flattener. I was quite hopeful with that one... I took most of the negs and

have them pressing in sleeves under a huge stack of books, and then I

selected a few sacrificial negs and tried to roll them emulsion side out with a

rubber band to try and see if that helps. In the meantime if anyone else has

any ideas, I would appreciate your help. Thanks again!

Recently I shot family photos with Bergger ISO 200 speed 120 film, which I

had never used before. I processed the negs myself using Rodinal and

hanged them up to dry as I usually do with clothspins at the bottom. I let them

hang for only about a couple of hours, but they seemed dry to the touch. After i

started cutting them, they began to curl. This never happened to me with Ilford

films. I'm not sure if it was the film or just maybe I needed to let them hang

overnight. Anyway, I would really appreciate any suggestions to get the curl

out. I put them in sleeves and under a stack of books for four days now but

they are still curly. I'm now soaking one of the strips in water and photoflo and

am going to try and hang it up to dry overnight. Any ideas? Thanks.