vinodkutty

<p>The D200 exposure bias is different from the SB-800 flash output compensation, and different from the D200 flash exposure compensation. I don't know offhand if flash output compensation is encoded in the EXIF or other metadata. Please answer questions 1. and 2. in my comments. I've seen dark images when either this is set low, or batteries are weak, although yours seems much darker than anything I've ever seen.<br>

Also, your jpg seems to have been generated from RAW by Adobe software, and also uses Adobe RGB. This adds unnecessary complexity. I'm less familiar with them and unable to analyze on my system. More importantly, your sample jpg (I only looked at the dark one) is missing a lot of fields. For example, my JPG generated out of my D200 with SB-800 says:</p>

<p>$ exiftool xxxx.jpg | grep -i flash<br /> Flash : Fired, Return detected<br /> Flash Setting : Normal<br /> Flash Type : Optional,TTL<br /> Flash Exposure Compensation : 0<br /> Flash Exposure Bracket Value : 0.0<br /> Flash Mode : Unknown (3)<br /> Flash Info Version : 0101<br /> Flash Source : External<br /> External Flash Firmware : 1.01 (SB-800 or Metz 58 AF-1)<br /> External Flash Flags : [1]<br /> Flash Commander Mode : Off<br /> Flash Control Mode : iTTL-BL<br /> Flash Focal Length : 105 mm<br /> Repeating Flash Rate : 10 Hz<br /> Repeating Flash Count : 1<br /> Flash GN Distance : 2.0 m<br /> Flash Group A Control Mode : iTTL-BL<br /> Flash Group B Control Mode : Off<br /> Flash Group A Exposure Comp : 0<br /> Flash Group B Exposure Comp : 0<br /> Flashpix Version : 0100<br /> $<br>

Your jpg simply has:<br>

Flash : Fired, Return detected<br /> Flash Fired : True<br /> Flash Return : Return detected<br /> Flash Mode : Unknown<br /> Flash Function : False<br /> Flash Red Eye Mode : False<br>

which is not as complete as the in-camera jpg.</p>

<p>Also, one more question: does the red LED on the back of your SB-800 flash for a few seconds after you take a picture? This indicates flash output was insufficient as far as the SB-800 is aware.</p>

<p>Pics with EXIF would help, but in the absence of that, please check:<br>

1. Mode: what mode is set on the SB-800? (Change with mode button). Should probably be TTL with some other options after it.<br>

2. Flash output compensation. With the SB-800 and D200 on, if you hit the + and - buttons on the selector, do you see a number changing on the back of the SB-800? If so, adjust until it says "0 EV".<br>

3. Exposure compensation on body: are you setting any exposure compensation on the D200?<br>

4. Also, take the diffuser off the front of the SB-800 and make sure that the angle of the SB-800 is 90 degrees (one step before maximum bending), assuming your subject is in front of you (which is simplest for testing).</p>

Thanks for all the responses. Sounds like I'm generally on the right track regarding the aperture mechanism.<p>

Edward & Matthew: I'm tempted to ask Nikon about drop tests for entertainment value 8-) I do hope they leave the mute off 8-) I was more curious about what goes into lens design rather than any expectation about my specific, more brutal scenario.

<p>

Andrew: I tried this; the aperture lever does not spring back. I can manually reset it by pushing the lever back.This confirms the general hypothesis, but beyond that I don't know if that confirms anything more specific.

<p>An accident with some kids at a birthday party a few months ago resulted in my D200 with Nikkor 17-35mm f/2.8 falling 4 feet out of my open camera bag and onto a carpet-tiled floor with concrete underneath (lens front element first). I had the lens cap on, and that pushed into and smashed the UV filter. After some difficulty extracting the filter, and blowing off the glass shards with a hand blower, it was fairly clean. I replaced the UV filter and things seemed OK at first indoors, but then I went on vacation and a lot of my shots were overexposed so I had to do the best I could in the field to compensate. I ended up setting exposure compensation to anywhere from -2 to -5 stops depending on the situation (and sometimes used lower ISOs when 5 stops was not enough). Also, the wide end of the zoom ring (17-20ish) seems a little stiff, but at least it works. I haven't had a chance to check sharpness, but I think it's OK.<br>

It appears that the D200 body is metering correctly based on results with other lenses, so I think there is some internal damage to the lens.</p>

<p>I saw a recommendation for APS when searching the threads, so I might use them, as I live in Chicago. If you have other recommendations, let me know.</p>

<p>However, I'm curious if any experienced folks out there have comments on what might be wrong? I'm thinking something with the aperture mechanism, as the overexposure tends to happen when I'm using f-stops of about 8 or higher.</p>

<p>Additionally, if you have other info on internal workings of this lens or lenses in general and where shock may be transferred during a fall, that would be educational as this is is good motivation for me to learn more.</p>

<p>Do "pro" lenses have anything inside them to help with protection from damage in the field from drops? I know this is hard, but I'd assume if some basic features for dust protection and weather protection are designed for, maybe this situation is also considered during lens design.</p>

<p>Thanks.</p>

<p>I was about to ask about this, because, to answer your question, yes, I'm having the same problem. I thought at first I was accidentally hitting the function buttons on the front of the body but it happens even when I'm not. The flashes are very short and not as powerful or as frequent as the modeling flash. I've been using the SB-800 for about 5 years, and the D200 for 2.5 years, and it's only in the last month that this has started to happen.</p>

<p>It helps if I turn off the D200 and SB-800 periodically. I have another problem with the SB-800 and D200 combo: sometimes it will not come out of standby when I turn on the D200 (typically after many cycles of going into and out of standby), and I cannot turn off the SB-800 by using the on/off switch. Also, some of the standby screen pixels are not rendered (approx. the bottom half) when this happens. Removing and re-inserting the batteries fixes it. It may or may not be related, but I'm documenting for future reference in case others experience the same.</p>

<p>The hot shoe explanation may be why the random flashes are only happening now (a few years of stress on the shoe have probably increased the gap). It feels somewhat tight though. I'll need to take a closer look.</p>

<p>I did drop the D200 once a few months ago, but the flash was not attached. This may have been a contributing factor if the shock somehow jerked something loose.</p>

Well, I've been scouring some of the stores here in Chicago (including Central Camera -- where the service has never impressed me -- and Helix), and I find that the dedicated camera bags are too bulky/heavy and are not quite flexible enough to serve any other purpose well.

Bags with a single shoulder strap (e.g. Stealth Reporter) are convenient for quick access, but they will get very uncomfortable after walking around for 5 hrs.

So I seem to be arriving at a similar type of solution to what Jochen has suggested. I'm looking at outdoor/hiking stores for day packs, and I'm planning on simply stuffing my Lowepro toploader AW (barely holds the F80s with the 70-200mm) into it, as well as a small tripod. This seems to be the best compromise.

I guess my experience from this trip will help me figure out what works best for a future trip.

Thanks for all the input so far!

Thanks everyone for your input. It's good to hear several differing opinions. I'm going to buy a mix of films (100 + 200 + 400), but the majority will be the Kodak 400UC.

I'm treating this as an opportunity to learn, and the best way to learn is to experiment 8-)

Neal: Thanks for the pointer to the Kodak rebate ... that will certainly help my wallet. Hopefully I can use it for more than 1 set of 5.

John: Yes, I felt some hesitation as I typed that, since I noticed quite a few similar questions in the archives. I think the main reason for saying "I'm going to X" is to convey some sense of the type of locale (i.e. more urban/city rather than say a tropical forest 8-) ). Besides, who wants to vacation close to home ? 8-)

I will probably take a few rolls of other speeds, but I wanted to pick something for the bulk of my trip.

Which Agfa 400 was grainy? The Optima Prestige 400 Pro ? I've heard the Vista was more noticeably grainy.

This type of question probably grates on the nerves of old-timers, but

I just need a quick check.

When I'm not travelling, I tend to shoot mostly social events indoors

and outdoors. I'm not picky -- tends to be Fuji Superia Xtra 200/400

or Reala. I can't remember now which my last roll was, but I found the

grain a little distracting in indoor shots. I usually have the film

processed and scanned then stored on a CD-ROM, in addition to

obtaining prints.

It's only when I travel that I'm more concerned about the film, as

I'll want to have something more tangible to remember. I'll be

traveling through Europe for a month and I've been reading up films. I

found some reviews at nikonians.org (

http://www.nikonians.org/html/resources/jrp_faq/jrp_faq_what_film/faq_color_negative_film_preferences.html

), and I also skimmed through this:

http://photo.nemergut.com/equipment/film/film.html

I only have one body (F80s) and my best lens is the Nikon 70-200mm

F/2.8 VR. I'll also take a 28-80mm f3.3-5.6. I'd like to pick one or

two films to take with, and I'm thinking both Kodak Ultra Colour 400UC

and the Agfa Optima Prestige 400 Pro would be good choices. With one

body it won't be practical to take more setting-specific film.

I'll be doing a wide range of shooting: streets, buildings (inside and

out), people, art works, sunsets/sunrises, food, open-air markets,

vineyards, etc. I'm hoping to take a light tripod as well if I can, as

I love the colours at dawn/dusk. So I figured the above films would

give me a lot of versatility and good results. What do you think of

the above two in this regard?

Thanks for the responses so far. My problem is that a lot of the stores near me (downtown Chicago) don't have a great selection of camera bags. Not to mention that I'm busy enough with work and other activities that online-shopping in the wee hours of the night is the most practical option 8-)

Rachelle: I'm 6ft, but it doesn't matter as I haven't seen the Etsumi bag in the US. Regarding type of photos: I would like to take sunset pics as well ... that's my favourite time. Unfortunately I don't have a light tripod at the moment, so that is something I would need to purchase before my trip. This complicates the question of what bag to get 8-)

Gerald: I'm trying to avoid taking a tripod/monopod, and rely on the VR. In fact I wasn't too concerned about fitting one into a bag/backpack at first. However, as I play with it more I realize there are still a lot of low-light situations (such as dawn/dusk) that can't be exploited with VR alone.

Ben Z: I like the idea of the Optech straps ... I will look into them. How does the SOS compare to the "Bag Strap" ?

Rubens: Thanks for the tips ... that's the 2nd recommendation I've had for the Stealth Reporter bags. I might get the 400 and simply avoid stuffing it when I don't need the capacity. However, I just noticed that the internal hight dimension is 9.5", which is too small for my F80s + 70-200mm attached. Do you carry a lens attached to a body and if so can you lay it horizontally in this bag? Also, do you carry a tripod/monopod around, and if so how?

Firstly, thanks to everyone who replied. I've only recently started using photo net's forums and I'm impressed with the speed and detail of the responses 8-)

Anyway, the bottom line from most of the replies is that I'm being optimistic with my shutter speeds and should stick with faster ones. I had heard of 1/5sec being successfully used with VR, hence my initial over-enthusiasm. I'll be more sensible now 8-) Actually, when I develop my film I'll know for sure (haven't gone digital yet ).

Edward: thanks for the pics to go with your description.

Even if I use faster shutter speeds, I'd like to know what the best technique is for hand holding a lens of this size. Brian: I tried your suggestion of moving the foot and it does indeed help to a small extent.

-VK

So, I received my 70-200mm VR a couple of days ago, and I've been

playing with it indoors on my F80s body, taking portraits of people in

available lighting with VR on (normal mode), with a shutter speeds as

slow as 1/6 or 1/4 sec at 70-90mm and aperture at F/4 or 5.6 for a

slightly larger DOF, on 400 film.

Although I had read about the physical dimensions and weight of this

lens, I was unprepared for what it actually looked and felt like. This

is the first quality lens I've bought and definitely the largest lens

I own, so it will take a little getting used to.

The first problem I've encountered is keeping the lens stable. I brace

my left elbow slightly in front of and against my ribs, with the

barrel resting via the tripod mounting foot in my open palm, and thumb

+ forefinger rotating the zoom ring. I wonder if the mounting foot

worsens the situation when shooting?

Anyway, there is noticeable shake when looking through the viewfinder,

and I have my doubts as to how well VR (normal mode) will eliminate

this. I haven't finished the roll yet, so maybe I'm worrying too much.

Any tips on how to do this right? I will be traveling soon and don't

want to carry a tripod/monopod if I can avoid it. I do type a lot, so

I hope it's not just that my fingers are weak 8-(

Although I could do other things like using faster film, I'd like to

start with a stable lens.

Thanks,

-VK

I'm going to be traveling around Western Europe for about 1 month,

mostly in major cities. I'd like a bag to carry my Nikon F80s +

70-200mm VR + 28-80mm lenses + film, in addition to some documents and

other smaller accessories. I haven't decided yet whether I should buy

a compact monopod/tripod for this trip (I own a relatively heavy

tripod which would be a pain to travel with).

<p>

The concerns I have are that it should be comfortable and somewhat

safe from thieves grabbing smaller items from the bag's compartments.

I'd like to have the F80s w/ either the Nikkor 70-200mm VR or the

28-80mm safely supported inside the bag, without having to detach them

from the body.

<P>

In my mind the pros/cons are:<P>

Backpack:

<UL>

<LI> easier target for theft

<LI> more comfortable than a sling bag

<LI>less practical in terms of equipment accessibility

</UL>

Sling bag:

<UL>

<LI>easier to access equipment

<LI>less comfortable than backpack (all the weight is on one shoulder

strap, unless there's a waist strap?)

<LI> more secure when swung around to side/front ?

<LI> possibly less obvious that I'm a tourist (when the camera is in

the bag and I don't open my mouth) ?

</UL>

<p>

It would be nice to carry the bag with my equipment + other items like

a change of clothes + toiletries on board my flight from the US, then

use the same to carry just the items I need for photos when I leave my

hotel room.

<p>

I've posted on another website and read some other reviews, and these

bags have been mentioned:

<UL>

<LI>LowePro Stealth Reporter 200 (sling bag with an optional waist

belt too)

<LI>Domke 802 sling bag

<LI>Lowepro Orion Trekker backpack

</UL>

<P>

What's your advice? This will be in Dec, so I'll be wearing winter

clothing if it makes a difference.

<P>

-VK

Thanks everyone for your responses. I guess it was more moral support I needed than anything else, since this is my first investment in a quality lens.

I ordered the Nikkor and I can't wait to get it!

The D70 + used 80-200mm (mentioned by Hugh above) for the same price is an interesting option I had not considered for the short term. However I think I will get a good digital body next year, and use the 70-200mm VR with it.

I've seen a couple of posts regarding the 80-200mm Nikkors vs. the

above Sigma, but I'm interested in the 70-200mm f/2.8 AFS VR Nikkor

and how it compares to the Sigma 70-200mm f/2.8 EX APO HSM.

I have an F80s body, and a 28-80mm lens. I've decided I need

something in the 70-200mm range, and I'm looking at the Nikkor + Sigma.

The kinds of photos I tend to take include:

- dusk or night time (sunset, moonrise, buildings, etc. although half

involve wider angles where I wouldn't use this lens)

- people (action shots, indoors at parties, etc ... I like to pick out

candid closeups of people from afar, as well as the usual group portraits)

- travel/outdoors (flora/fauna in the wilderness as well as lots of

cities - building facades, people in the streets, statues, etc.)

- food (occasionally )

From what I've read, the Sigma has excellent optics, and so the

choice seems to boil down to VR or not (although some say other

factors like build quality are better in the Nikkor). On the downside,

the Nikkor appears to be more susceptible to flare, but how bad is it

compared to the Sigma?

I'm a little nervous about spending the money (but ultimately I can

afford either, even if it stings in the short term). It seems like I

could benefit most from the VR in the lower light situations where I

do not have a tripod (esp. when traveling which I will be doing more of).

Additionally, if I use a 1.4x or 2x teleconverter, I expect to be

better off for hand held shots. Finally, I'd simly like to invest in

something that lasts and gives me the max flexibility to get the shots

I want.

So I just need a sanity check before I spend the money ... any

comments? Do the above seem like valid reasons or am I over-estimating

the importance of VR or other factors when comparing these two lenses?

Any other non-Nikkor lenses that have the same functionality?

TIA,

-VK

This is not an answer, but a "me too". I was going to post an almost identical question 8-) I'm also interested in shots of the moon, probably in conjunction with a teleconverter.

Additionally, is it reasonable to say any lens of this type will show flare due to the no. of elements?

How does it compare to the Sigma equivalent (70-200mm EX APO HSM) ?