john_stafford2

I did IR photography in military and for some time afterwards, largely for industrial surveilance.

 

All you need for film is an IR source and IR film. Placing a true IR filer over a flash is adequate. Nobody will see the flash.

 

In storage I still have a few IR filters ranging from glass domes that fit over headlights, to smaller ones for flash, including bulb flash, and also some old IR bulbs. The later are not necessary unless you need one heck of a lot of light.

 

As far as the digital approach goes, you need to find a camera that has either no built-in IR filter or one you can remove. I'm not into that. Someone else can help with that.

<i> Nice pictures, good presentation, gore and guts are not needed all of the time.</i><p>

 

The presentation in question is 100% white-sauce; insubstantial, irrelevant, uninforming, and so neutered that the pictures could pass for Hallmark Greeting Cards.<P>

 

Get Well Soon.<BR>

And that's an ORDER!

Toy Camera Picture<div></div>

Good stuff. The pictures could have been more horrific, but the photographer chose to show convey a larger scope. I am impressed.<p>

 

For the rest who would like to understand the Agent Orange tragedy, I can suggest two books - this one first:<br> <u>

Waiting for an Army to Die: The Tragedy of Agent Orange</u><br>

by Fred A. Wilcox <p>

I'll have to rummage through my library for the exacts of the other one.

.<div></div>

In turn, there's a dozen guys out there whipping out stick-on codes at pennies each for, ah, experimentation purposes. Yeah, that's the ticket, experimentation.

A student brought one of those to class and I was just gob-smacked to see the results. Very nice compact camera!

<i>In the UK Health and Saftey would almost certainly ask for it to be removed espcially as it shows children involved. </i><p>

I dearly hope you are joking. Please tell us you are.

Thank for that, Don. It's always good to get your posts.

 

I'm down to a half-dozen working Weston meters so I think I'll wait out new meter purchases.

Funny about that show. A war zone with no dead people.

<b>Tony Polson</b> <i> No doubt, if Hitler had won the war, there would be TV programmes produced that praised the excellent contributions to Nazi victory made by products of the Leitz company. The exact story depends on who won.</i><p>

Yep, and it would be on the Desert Fox Channel.

<i>Are these the ones with the hole in the back? If yes, that hole needs to be plugged. </i><p>

If you are refering to the hole to view the backing numbers, then that is completely false. Simply keeping the flap down after loading is more than adequate.<p>

Presuming you installed the new light traps properly...<p>

 

A likely candadate first: Do your rear flaps close completely? They are there to avoid fogging due to light leaking around the mirror. You must have them both in top operating condition.<p>

 

If you develop your own film, it could be happening in that process. <p>Another unlikely one is loose seating, so mount the back, then pull the slide, and advance the film. Does the back move considerably? It usually moves at the top. You can "get away" with some movement, say 1mm, and it usually snaps back into place after the wind, and that's still undesirable but won't fog all your film.<br>

<B>WT</B> said: <i>$75 and a bottle of scotch. Or go to the library or starbucks with your laptop and do your own research on ebay.</i><p>

Well, perhaps take the post to GENERAL or EQUIPMENT to get more responses. Methinks perhaps you have already dipped into that bottle.

"a guy makes and sells on ebay"

 

Which guy? Which boards? Come on, man, a little more info would be so very cool. How about an item number?

 

All I can say is that the boards sold by DAGOR77 are probably okay, but he's into high-end, usually Deardorff stuff.

Sure. Just screw up the gamma in photoshop. Use Curves or Levels to blow away the curve.

 

There is nothing remarkable about that photo. If you want to make the same without photoshop, just overexpose 1/2 stop, then do another 1/2 stop over, and maybe another until you get the same wretched outcome he does.

There already exist small, exclusive, privately owned resorts on the ocean that can, and do, provide exactly what you describe. The fact that many don't know of them suggests they cannot afford them and not welcome.

 

You don't even want to dream of establishing something such as you suggest in certain Caribbean cultures. They are properly suspicious of exploitation from outside -ESPECIALLY from someone who won't even take the trouble to learn how to spell Caribbean.

Another handy tool is Microsoft's Power Toy named "Resize". After you install it, you get another option when you right-click on any number of images - Resize Picture(s). It has a couple option. Very fast and easy.

 

Get it here: http://download.microsoft.com/download/whistler/Install/2/WXP/EN-

 

Keep in mind that downsampling is often a destructive process. The greater the degree of downsampling, the more problematic it can be.

Quick way - open two images in Photoshop. Shift-drag one on top of the other. Adjust the transparency of that new layer.

 

There's many other things you can do. See the HELP menu, search and be happy.

If it happens with every camera, then your technique is really strange. Don't you wait for the shutter to stop before moving? Do you really always move in the same pattern, right-to-left for almost the length of the scene during the exposure? Sorry, but that seems unlikely, but on the other hand, I haven't seen everything yet in these past sixty years.

I messed up the steps.

 

Anywho, lock up the shutter and trip the shutter to get it out of the way.

 

Scrutinize the curtain for leaks. Cock it and do the same.

 

While others might cry about this, you can use B and put your finger in there to catch the second shutter to stop it, then let it move slowly to examine it. It won't kill the camera.

<i>It looks like a single camera movement sideways, but only the lights are bright enough to register it. </i><p>

I'll wager a Guinness that's not the problem. The picture is not blurry enough for a near-complete handheld pan camera movement error.<p>

I'm betting that a shutter curtain has separation at the edge, by the curtain frame.

Gosh, it's a 40 year-old old camera. I wouldn't be surprised if it was broken. Anyway, the battery applies only to the meter. It has no effect upon advance or anything else.

 

Are you saying that you can move the advance lever and the film just does not move, or is it stuck? If the former, then is the film rewind release engaged?

Got it.<p>

 

Okay, now without film.<br>

Remove the back.<br>

Remove the lens from the body.<br>

Turn the mirror-lock button up.<br>

Cock the shutter and

press the shutter to move the mirror away for the next steps.<br>

Now point the body at a bright light.<br>

Do you see a pinhole or tear in the shutter curtain?<br>

Next on B, hit the shutter button.<br>

Press it and release.<br>

Do you see a pinhole or tear in that shutter curtain?<p>

 

Nice to meet another Nikon F enthusiast. :)

Before we speculate further, Dave, and because I can't tell if you are scanning negatives or prints, please use a loupe against the actual negative. Are the streaks in the negative?

The lightning detector gizmo is for lightning which has a very log duration compared to electronic flash. It won't work for your project.