dmitriyk

Right, but where are you pulling the business about f/5.6 out of?

<i>The AF system effectively uses something like f/5.6, and hence may not be doing the optimal thing if you're taking the picture at f/1.4. Since focus is more crucial at wide f-stops, you might want to adjust so that the AF system is optimal for the wider stops rather than f/5.6.</i><br>

<br>

Say what?

<i>Just as view camera lenses don't need to have high resolution numbers, lenses on D3

have no need to score high on MTF tests made on DX cameras - the larger sensor area more

than makes up for the larger pixel size especially at wide apertures.</i><br><br>You'll eat

those words when the D3x comes out. ;)

One word: insurance.

1) The Nikon lens does not tilt, it only shifts.

 

2) I've heard of this conversion being performed, though I don't know where or how.

Fluorescent lights flicker. It's too fast for humans to see, but it'll show up in photos.

 

Your camera is fine.

The card issue is sticky. The way I figure it, the probability of a major-brand card just failing

is far smaller than the probability of me dropping a card while changing them. Like, for

instance, into the bowels of a ship. Which happened last time I had to swap cards.

And those SD cards are tiny bastards...

 

Personally, I wouldn't use anything smaller than 2GB cards with my 10MP D200. Those give

you about 240 images per card, which I feel is a pretty good number. Two would be

adequate; three would be better.

Despite your opinion, you're not actually a charity - especially in the eyes of the IRS. There

would be no tax writeoff for any donation made.

No, one really doesn't. One may need ND, GND (that's a big maybe), and polarizing filters.

Or one may not need any of these.

 

I wouldn't trade a D50 for a KM5D.

"Hi" means that the scene cannot be properly exposed at the selected aperture - the

camera does not have a shutter speed high enough. Similarly, "Lo" means that the camera

does not have a shutter speed slow enough (or the scene is too dark to meter). When you

apply exposure compensation, you're altering what the meter thinks is a proper exposure.

So if the meter tells you that the proper shutter speed for the current aperture setting is

not available ("Hi"), and you adjust the exposure compensation up (asking the meter to

overexpose), <i>that new exposure</i> may be available because the shutter speed

required would be slower.<br>

<br>

If that makes sense.

Gotta send it back to Nikon.

No regrets. I used to regret the noise levels, but then I noticed that while the per-pixel noise

is higher, images looked at as a whole are cleaner.

The D70 also has a shutter. It's fairly obvious if you actually, you know, look at it.

<a target="_blank" href=" title="Photo

Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/35/111073281_5b52a9a152.jpg" width="500"

height="333" alt="Independence Day" /></a><br>

<br>

<i>Independence Day</i>

Tom: isn't that the exact thing they said about the D200 and the D2x back when those

rumors were flying?

The D200 doesn't really need these. The OEM LCD cover <i>just stays on</i>. Even when I try to take it off, it puts up quite a fight.

Also, <a href="http://bythom.com/1224lens.htm" target="_blank">this</a> might be helpful.

Forgot to mention something. You can also move the pre-flash to a manual control. Either

the DoF preview button or the AE-L button (set it for FV-L). This will allow you to fire the

pre-flash separately from the main exposure.

iTTL needs a pre-flash to meter the scene. If you drop back to manual flash metering (or AA

if you're using an external unit), the pre-flash won't be fired.

<i>It is, by some accounts, a lossy process, takes a significantly longer time to process in

the camera (which would likely affect your shooting rate), and does not yield significant

space savings.</i><br>

<br>

Let's try that one again. While it is lossy, I haven't seen anyone actually point out a visible

difference in example images. It takes no additional time to process on cameras newer

than the D100 - in fact, your buffer depth increases when you shoot compressed because

images are written out quicker. And compression cuts file sizes in half.<br>

<br>

Yep, I'd say there's an advantage to shooting compressed.

I liked the Hoodman LCD hood I had on my D70, but I got tired of replacing them (broke three).

 

Fortunately, the OEM LCD cover on the D200 stays in place.

The exact focal length of the lens does not get recorded in the EXIF data. The lens zoom is actually continuous - you can confirm this by looking through the viewfinder while zooming.

Both Nikon and Sigma make a rectilinear 14mm f/2.8 that you could try. Thom Hogan has

<a href="http://bythom.com/14lens.htm" target="_blank">a review of the Sigma</a> on

his site.

<i>I don't know if it is worth paying at least a thousand bucks for these lenses, but they will

not lack for buyers who are looking for custom made lenses.</i><br>

<br>

Custom made at a Cosina factory. Just for you. ;)

Chris: that is insane! I can't believe you'd keep shooting after losing a command dial and the

meter because of water! Did the D2h recover well afterwards?

 

Though that's a great shot.