steve_kraft

<p><em>There is a shaft at the bottom of the front standard that rotates 180 degrees or so to cock the shutter, mount a lever, make a gear train, whatever floats your boat.<br /> </em><br>

Erie, when I rotate the focus knob and move the front standard forward, I can see the shaft you are speaking of. Cocking the shutter rotates it one way, and releasing it, the shaft reverses. Thanks for the tip. I'm curious, however, how the lever or gear train would be mounted - if it would be inside of the lens board or outside? Also, the shutter mechanism presses a small round metal pin on the back of the lens to release a mechanism that allows that shaft to rotate - how do you get around all of this?<br>

Many thanks! This is surely going to be an exciting project.<br>

_S</p>

<p>Hello,<br>

I have an old Adox Stelo, 6x9 camera. The lens is an Adoxar Anastigmat f/6.3, 10.5cm.<br>

In removing the front lens plate, and cleaning the lens elements, I have put it all back together, but don't know how to ensure that the focusing ring is accurate. The outer lens ring is held down by two screws on the front plate, but this ring can move independently around the front element, until it is tightened down - thus giving some play to where the focusing marks will end up. <br>

So, I don't have any ground glass and wondered if there was some way to do this properly?<br>

Thanks!</p>

<p>If this post is in the wrong place, please let me know and forgive me.</p>

<p>I have seen some wonderfully presented photos using backlit displays. Jeff Wall used these at the MoMA a few years ago, and although it was not black and white, it gave the photos a lot of life, almost like a slide projector.</p>

<p>I have searched on google and found a bit of DIY information, but nothing substantial, about how this would be done. Specifically I'm curious about what sort of paper the photos should be printed on, and then how to properly build a frame, including information about lighting types.</p>

<p>Any links or guidance would be greatly appreciated.</p>

<p>Thanks,</p>

<p>_S</p>

<p>Thanks for all the responses.<br>

I've just found a 'bargain' quality A24 back to match the body on KEH for $16.00 USD + shipping. Seems like a deal to me.<br>

Be well - thanks again,<br>

_S</p>

<p>Hello,<br>

Let me begin by saying that if i've not searched properly and this is a duplicate thread, please forgive me and point me in the right direction.<br>

This is concerning the Hasselblad A12 back designed for 120 film. I've read up on numerous websites that the 'old' style 12 shot 120 magazines can use 220 film, if the window is blocked. I'm using a more modern A12 back, and there is no hole to lift up and count the frames with. Can 220 film be used in these backs / magazines? If so, once you get to the 12th shot, how to you reset it so you can finish shooting the rest of the roll?<br>

Many thanks,<br>

_S</p>

Thank you all again for the thorough and prompt responses.

I have tried the lens and used the green dot with much better results. I was unaware that the camera could recognize if the image was in focus using such an old lens, and had overlooked that feature previously - thank you all.

Yes, at 1.4, very little is in focus, and additionally the lens as has been pointed out, gets soft, but occasionally that is a desired effect. I was aiming for this sometimes but would find that my subject's eyebrow or eyelid would be in focus instead of their eye and I had botched an otherwise excellent shot. I think I should perform better now, and might try a new focusing screen. If I don't get good results at that point I might just spring for an AF 1.8 lens.

Concerning the fact that the Pre-AI lenses might damage the camera, while this will be debated for a while on these forums, I had asked this question here before and a few other seemingly trusty Nikon users were confident that the lenses were safe as long as I mounted them at the correct aperture setting. I have been careful and seem to have done no damage when inspecting the camera, and even if I did overlook some on the interior, the functionality has not been compromised in the past 8 months of doing this and using the camera quite a bit.

Thanks again,

-Steve

Thank you all for the responses, so far.

It seems I'm out of luck. So if I like this lens and want to couple its speed and photographic characteristics with my D70, should I go for a modern, AF-D version of the same lens, or perhaps the 1.8?

-Steve

I have done some searching on this issue, and couldn't find any pertinent

information. If there are any similar threads, please point me in the right

direction.

Anyhow, I have a D70 and am having fun with my father's 4 Pre-AI, MF, prime

lenses. One of them is a 50mm 1.4. I have been able to take some amazing shots

with it, enjoy the bokeh it produces and have a lot of fun with it. However, I

am having problems with both the accuracy and precision of focusing the lens.

To get the right focusing distance, I have to take a few shots and examine them

on the LCD screen to see which one came out right. It seems that the focusing I

see in the viewfinder is not matching up with what is taken by the camera.

What could be the problem?

Thank you,

-Steve

Hello,

I finally settled and after a lot of decision-making etc. got a D70.

I am very happy with it.

But, I got it without a lens, and have been using my father's old

pre-AI lenses (28mm 2.8, 50mm 1.4, 135mm 3.5, 300mm 4.0).

Unfortunately, they don't meter, so I'm playing guess and check.

I have played around with a friend's 18-55, but have read many reviews

who boast the 18-70 is really the way to go. Is the 18-55 something

to rule out just yet?

I have seen some other lenses like the Sigma 18-50 3.5, which are

attractive (price) and have decent reviews.

What am I really getting (besides the 50-55 or 50-70mm) with the Nikon

lenses? Does silent-wave technology really help a lot? What is that

going to help me with? Is there any image stabilization etc?

-Steve

Thank you Dan, but I have the camera set to reset that counter after each time I clear the memory card.

-Steve

How do I find the number of shots or shutter actuations that my D100

has taken?

Thank you,

-Steve

Thank you for all of your time, and responses.

So, since since these cameras can keep going for a while, is it safe to assume that the older models (GSW690 Pro II and G690 for example) are probably solid investments, assuming they are in decent condition? Or, is it much safer to look for the newer models like Pro III?

Thank you again,

-Steve

Hello,

I am interested in picking up a Fuji 6x9 rangefinder, and have found

quite a few older ones around, but they have often had over 250

rolls run through them. I have read that these guys need periodic

maintenance for re-alignment and such, and was wondering both how

neccessary this is, and at what time this should be done? Lastly,

is this type of "overhaul" or regular checkup expensive?

Thank you,

-Steve