brad_stock_photography

I use xatshow. Works a treat ;)

 

 

Brad

Yeah got the Batch conveting all done with that awesome tool in Bridge. Never thought to look for it in there, was looking all through PS.

 

As for the size I'm guessing that no matter what you change this too it is just changing the canvas size to suit the DPI? If I understand correctly? If that is true, what is the purpose of having it there for? Makes no sense.

 

Thanks for the book tips, I'll definaly check them out. Still trying to get Deke's Total Training DVD's finshed. Been halfway through number 2 now for ages<div></div>

I have a couple of questions for the PSCS2 Guru's out there.

 

1. Is I'm trying to see the difference of converting a RAW file at

the standard 3504 X 2336 @ 240DPI (1DMKIIn) and again after bumping

it up to 600DPI. After converting the same file at both Resolutions

the TIFF file ends up being the same size. Does changing the res do

anything at all. Is it upsizing the image? Am I killing fine detail

data if something is happening? At a glance at 100% both look

identical.

 

2. Also wondering if there is a quick way to convert 80+ images from

TIFF to JPEG. Being that you cant just "save as" a TIFF into a JPEG

I normally would create a blank canvas at the same size as the TIFF

and just drag the TIFF file over and then save that as JPEG. Is

there another way around this I have just skipped by without

noticing as 80+ Images the manual way is going to kill me.

 

Cheers in advance......Brad

NP Daniel. Be interested to see the first roll after the fix if you find the time to make a gallery on here ;)

 

PEAS.............Brad

WOW.

 

I mean alot of what I read here on photo.net has helped me along my ways but none more so than these 2 threads.

 

(here is the other one that this is refered to to save people hunting) http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00DNvQ

 

Purley amazing, seriously! Who would have thought. I was always under the impression as to always shoot under if anything to save from blowing highlights, as I'd say many that came from film would have figured. This is something I definatly would not have experimented with, especially not at a wedding gig, so being told and having it proven makes this a very welcomed lesson.

Would you then recomend that all image's shot digital should be overexposed? have you tried +1 at ISO 50? Not that there is much noise at low ISO's anyway but I feel it is something that I may have to experiment with to compare.

 

Many many kudos to you my friend ;)

 

Brad

Looks like you lost some really nice pictures there.

 

I recently had the same problem but was lucky enough to get the person who sold me the camera to do the repair. I also got a new slide from ebay as mine had the smallest bend/bur on one corner and I didn't want it damaging the new seal. Could be worth checking as a new slide was under $20AU.

 

Good luck...........Brad

I belive colour matrix is a nikon term. Canon went with "Parameters"

As with all others I'd say turn to the standard mode where all are zero'd, shoot raw, and convert all post shoot.

 

Cheers....Brad

G'Day Tim.

 

 

My set up is

 

Bodys:

 

20D and Grip + 6 Batteries,

 

1DMKIIn,

 

Hasselblad 500C/M,

 

Lenses:

 

15 2.8 Fisheye,

 

18-55,

 

50 1.8,

 

70-200 IS L 2.8,

 

Planar 80 2.8 T*,

 

(very soon to get 24-70 2.8 L)

 

Flashes:

 

580EX,

 

Sunpak 555 with TR battery pak,

 

Sunpak 120J with TR battery pak,

 

Stofen Omni bounce for 555 and 580EX,

 

Pocket wizards

 

Plus a heap of other gear like aa's, sync cord, tripod etc all squashed in a Lowepro Treker

 

Now advice wise I'd say spend allot of time more looking at poses and others gallery's. Look at where hands are and little things like this. You need to be confident and little details like this can make or break a shot. Light is the key to any good photo so maybe a test run with a friend at the location a week or so prior to the wedding at the same time frame is a wise choice. Also practice putting your friend into positions and poses that you will be taking the B and G through.

Personally I much prefer ambient over flash as to me flash is one of the key ingredients to making a picture looked posed. And really that's what you are trying to stear away from.

 

 

Some people mentioned that the 70-300 will get no use as its too slow and wont allow you to separate the subject from the B/G. Remember that you are working in he digital age and all this can be achieved post shoot with a little time. A big thing to remember but is that any pics you are going to run at high ISO's, make sure to do them on the 20D as its noise levels are far superior to the 300D.

If you can fit them in your bag its also a great idea to take some props. Throw rug, Bottle of Champaign, Couple of flutes etc. Can really give you THAT much more to work with in terms of end variety.

Before the posed pics make sure that the B and G take a few drinks and allow them the time to relax and get over the tense feelings from the hecticness that the wedding can bring. These tense feelings really show up in photo's.

 

 

Also remember to meter off the brides face and not off her dress. This can confuse the hell out of your meter.

I noticed you didn't mention what film you will be running in the 2000 so after some advice I had got from members of this site I'd recommend Fuji NPS and NPH.

 

 

I know I left allot more than requested but I just got in the groove ;)

 

Good luck with it and hope to see some images from the first few

Would have to agree on the need of a wide angle and a second body. Do some test shots of an assistant at the desired place at the time of day relative to when the wedding will be held. shoot half flash and half at ambient. Personly I think ambient looks far better than flash but thats something you should leave up to the couple. Its there memories that you are going to be capturing. One of the best tips you could get is if you are shooting in a priority mode be sure to meter off the brides face and not her dress as that can cause alot of under exposed images.

 

Good luck

 

Brad

I have heard, and even seen some results on people putting a 35mm

roll in the back of there hassy using a 120 back. How is this

possible? Can anyone show me a diagram on how to modify the spool to

fit? i do know you only end up with about 1/3 of the actual frame

down te middle being exposed on the film. How can I shoot more than

12 frames without the camera locking up and needing to be wound off?

Am I totally off track and the images I seen were actually from a

35mm back on the hassy and the people I spoke to were just shitting

me? please help as I am completely at a loss here and I really want

to shoot some 35mm where i can expose the film advance slots too.

 

Cheers..............Brad

Cheers for all the advice and input. Got a roll of NPS and a roll of NPH today. I'll be sure to post some results on the near future.

 

Cheers......Brad

Im not much of a fan for flash portraits so ambient will be the go. I will take one 1500cm reflector but depending on time frame I will have available I may not get the time to "set up". Now I will do some google research on NC 160 and Astia 100 as they seem to be the 2 to pic from.

 

Thank you all soo much for your time and input. I'll be sure to put up the results once finished.

 

Cheers....Brad

Have always shot sports on MF but recently agree'd to shoot some

portrait singles on my hassleblad at a wedding. Now my fridge

collection of 120 Colour slide is only Provia 100 and a couple

Velvia 50 asa. Being these 2 super saturate I dont think they are

best for true skin tones so was wondering what you guys that dabble

frequently in this field would go for? I will only be getting one

roll of 100ASA and one of 400asa as I will only be shooting the one

roll, and 9/10 times we have plently of sun this time of year.

 

Cheers in advance.....Brad

Was the flash set to manual? If it was set to its TTL mode it can vary the light it emits.

<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/Newidude/Lensflare.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com">

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/Newidude/Lensflare.jpg

 

Hope that works

I am getting some extreme lense flare shooting with flashes on my

hassy even with a lense hood on. Im talking like half the image.None

if the flashes were facing towards the camera whatsoever.

But really to me I think it looks like It may even be a light leak,

not flare? Would this be caused from a faulty back? And why did I

end up with 2 images from the roll that had only a slight flare/leak

down the left side of the frame?

Any insight on this would be great.

 

Cheers....Brad

Focusing with a prism finder can be hell. If you have a waist level or can get ya hands on one try that first before jumping in and fixing things.

 

Brad

Cheers again for all the help guys.

 

I do get a lab to do all my developing and printing, and scanning is probably easiest for me so with everyones insight taken in I think I'll use up all the good advice especially from Lex. "why don't you try some"

 

Was kind of hoping to pilfer some advice from others that have already spent the time and money in this area but I guess theres really no substitute to "having a crack yaself"

 

Thanks again everyone :)

I recently finally got my 500cm Hasselblad and was wondering if the

same digital rule apply's to shoot in colour and post manipulate? I

was tempted to get some Ilford Delta 50 but before I do make the

purchase I was hoping someone on here may let me know if it is THAT

much better shooting it in B/W. Or if it is better to shoot in

colour would I be better shooting Neg to convert or slide.

 

thanks in advance

 

Brad

Now that I understood. All points taken with nothing left to reply :) except for maybe "yes, I believe your right".

All valid comments yes. The only problem is when receive a low score, it would come across better if it was left with ways to improve. I have now read just about every thread on this matter and it was mentioned that some people are just here for the praise. And when I think about it, I do take everything I am told in, and try my hardest to learn from this, but I can't try and deny that I am actually one of these people. So maybe its just people like me that aren't digging it.

The other matter is though that you might find one thing about a photo absolutely exceptional, but then another may find it missing all the key ingredients. That's the best thing, its an artform with a different flavour for every individual. So really the ratings should be meaningless!!!!

 

Shoot to please yourself and accept your own gratification :)

I am a non paying member with a gallery that is no where near the standard of average on this site so my opinion may well mean nothing. But I reckon the whole anonymous rating thing stinks. I have read many a thread on it now, and listened to both sides but still cant understand its benefits. And yes, a double 2 with no explanation realy can be frustrating. Best way to combat this really is ignore the ratings, and listen to whatever comments you get when lucky enough.