pcassity

I am really concerned that I may have the same experience. My estimate indicated that the lens needed a basic ‘clean and check’.

Shun, after several tests on a tripod I found the sweet spot of this lens at 500mm to be f7.1. At 5.6 I needed to not go over 400mm to be its sharpest. (without the TC). It really does come down to how one uses the lens though. I would never use the TC on a cloudy day or at dusk. In fact, pushing the ISO over about 1800 even on a bright day creates to much noise for me and although easily correctable in LR, it still reduces the sharpness. By the way, after 2 years of use, this week it started giving me the ERR message anytime I used a f stop other than 5.6 and zoomed past 200.Nikon has it now and it repairing it under warranty.

Shun, Here is another. This one is at 650mm 1/350 and again f8. I am also using a monopod. I have to tell you that I do much better than 1 out of 10 in regards to sharpness.

I'm quite happy with the TC 1.4 III on my 200-500 and D850. Would love it to be a little faster but have learned that it just need a little more light. The is a recent shot at 700mm.

Does anyone know if it is possible to only download only specific images from the camera to a device using the Snapbridge App? It appears that you are forced to download all shots on the camera once the camera finally connects.

I have acquired a Kodak 4x5 camera made in the 30’s. It takes Kodak ss616 film. Does anyone know if film for this camera and is available and is there anyplace that would develop the film i was able find it?

A week after I received a notification from Amazon that the 850 would not be available until Jan or Feb of next year, I got a message from AMEX that my card had been debited by Amazon. I then got another Amazon message stating my D850 was shipping and would arrive in 2 days. Have had it 2 weeks now and couldn’t be happier! Not sure what happened but I am grateful!

Thanks Shun! Talked to a local camera store in Houston yesterday. They said they are getting about 5 in at a time but they never know when they are going to arrive. They have 2 waiting lists. One with $500 deposits which includes about 30 names at the moment. Another without deposits that is much longer.

Amazon just changed their anticipated ship date for the D850 from 10/31 to early January through February. Looks like it still going to be a while!

Rick, I'm a Real Estate Photographer. I shoot 90% HDR. Sometimes up to 14 images at a time. I've shot about 500 homes since purchasing the 750. That will wear out a camera pretty quick.

Can someone explain what the difference is between a ISO of 64 and LO.3,.7, or 1.0? Since its all an electronic process in the first place? Same for the high end. 12800 to HI.3 -1.0?

Does anyone have any experience with the KEH repair service they would like to share. I have 102,000 activations on my 750 and would like to replace the shutter before it fails. Their website states that repairs to DSLR's are a completed at a flat rate of $300.00.

I use both. I prefer the 20mm as it has much less edge distortion than the 16-35, which is important to me as a Real Estate Photographer. However, the distortion can be easily corrected in Lightroom. I feel (and I use the word feel because it may be my imagination) that the 20mm is a bit sharper out of the camera. I like the 20mm for my Milky Way shots since the f1.8 allows me to leave the shutter open longer. I originally had the 18-35 but the distortion was much worse and not always correctable. However, that was, again using it for my real estate work. For landscapes the 18-35 may be fine since the edge distortion isn't as critical.

Thanks all. Rodeo Joe is correct. I purchased the wrong filter. I had intended to purchase the B+W UV-HAZE which I use on my other lenses. I mistakenly order the IR cut. I have since ordered the correct filter. The UV-HAZE does a pretty good job of eliminating, or at least reducing flare on my interior shots. Thanks again!

Thanks. I uploaded these photos just to show the comparison with the filter and without. There was no flare in either shot. My issue is with the greenish tint that is applied when using the filter. I do use a lens hood at all times. Thanks.

This is the filter that I am currently using. - Hoya 77mm UV and IR Cut Filter

I am a real estate photographer. I use a D750 with the Nikon 20mm f1.8 lens. Recently I have noticed a considerable number of flare spots when shooting rooms with considerable sunlight. Certainly, I try to shoot angles that minimize the sun but its not always possible. I purchased a B+W UV Filter for the lens to see if it would help to reduce the flare and, in fact it has. However, I am noticing that the filter is giving the edges of the photos a greenish tint. Is this a normal occurrence with a UV filter? I have attached two photos. The first is with the filter and the other is without. Thanks!

<p>Well, Looks like the dirty contacts weren't the issue after all. Turned on camera this morning and it immediately started giving me the F0 message, indicating the lens was not attached. Nikon estimates the repair to be $450. Its now on EBay starting at $199 in case anyone is interested.</p>

<p>Cleaned the lens and camera contacts with alcohol this morning. So far so good. Thanks for everyone's suggestions and help!</p>

<p>Thanks Dieter. What should I use to clean the contact pins?</p>

<p>My 6 yr. old 24-70mm is apparently losing contact (intermittently) with both of my cameras. My D810 and D750. I occasionally get the f0 error message. I have insured that the lens is locked in place. Sometimes it corrects itself and other times I cannot re-establish contact until I have unlocked and then re-locked the lens into place. Before I contact Nikon for a repair, does anyone have a recommendation? Thanks for your help!</p>

I use a combination of the 24 PC-E and the 16-35mm for my Real Estate Photography. I have found that 90% of my images fall within 19 to 20mm. I use the 24mm for all of my exterior shots, shifting the lens up or down when needed. I have always hoped that Nikon would someday produce a PC-E similar to Canon's 17 Tilt Shift. As others have insinuated, the price of the new 19 PC-E is ridiculous. However, it's possible that it could really help my workflow. I have two other concerns other than the price. One is the possible distortion. It's rather easy to correct the distortion of the 16-35 with Lightroom. However, LR and my 24 PC-E. are not as compatible. The other concern is the possibility of extreme flaring when used for my exterior shots. I would love to know that I could offset the cost of the new 19mm by selling my 24 but I feel that I may end up needing the 24 for my exteriors to compensate for the lack of a effective lens hood. Thoughts?

<p>Shun, exactly what I did with the images above. So, my concern about the size of the camera is not accurate as it was not sitting on the tripod. </p>

<p>D810</p><div></div>

<p>Thanks all. I performed the test again this morning. This time taking everyone's comments about the tripod, lens and camera into consideration. I made sure, again that the lens was securely mounted to the tripod. However, this time I used a different tripod and head. Appears that may have been the issue. There is still a somewhat of a 'shift' in images but I feel that is may be as a result of the D810 being slightly larger than the 750, thus sitting slightly higher on the tripod. Thanks to all for you help and comments!</p><div></div>