joe chan

The XPAN shutter has a white/grey patch painted on it. Light reflects off this onto the light meter photocell inside the body.

Are you sure the on/off switch is set to the "A" position. Have you tried pressing the battery check button - you should get a repeating beeping sound if the battery is OK.

I adjusted your photo using the the "Curves" function in PS2 to first get the contrast right. Then I again used curves on just the green channel to remove the green cast:

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<img src=http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/5724519-lg.jpg>

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Perhaps you could wash and re-dry the slides before scanning them again to clean them up little.

In addition to the many unofficial adapters on eBay, Leica also produce an adapter for R lenses on 4/3" cameras. See here:

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<A href="http://www.leica-camera.co.uk/photography/d_system/accessories/adapters/3941.html">Link</A>

I think the problem is made worse in your case because of your long exposure. If you're prepared to do some work in Photoshop or whatever image editing software you use, you can hide the hot pixels. I haven't done it myself but the technique involves making a long exposure in the dark, e.g. with the lens cap on, so that you have a black image with just the hot pixels showing. If you load this image into Photoshop you can use it to create a mask to eliminate the hot pixels from your proper image.

The tiny white specks are "hot pixels". They are likely to appear on camera CCDs and LCD panels due to their nature. Manufacturers will not replace a CCD or LCD just because a few pixels are stuck like this, hence the comment "within manufacture specifications". Search Google or photo.net for "hot pixels", e.g.:

 

<a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00Iloo">Click here</a>

Here:

 

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/joechan/manuals/mamiyamanuals.html

 

Joe Chan

Here you go:

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<A href="http://homepage.ntlworld.com/joechan/manuals/mamiyamanuals">Click here</A>

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Joe Chan

Have you checked the custom functions settings?

 

Check CF-11 is set to 0.

 

You could try resetting all custom functions to the factory defaults (press CF button and then "CLEAR" button).

It's quite straightforward to remove the top plate of the SRT-101 and gain access to the prism, screen and viewfinder. To undo the shutter release / film advance lever, you really need a flexi-clamp like these:

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<b><a href="http://www.micro-tools.com/store/SearchByCategory.aspx?CategoryCode=FLX">micro-tools flexi clamps</a></b>

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I have one that's 5/8 inch and it works but is a little tight.

 

To remove the film rewind knob, you open the camera back and slot a screwdriver into the prongs (which normally go into the film canister) and you can then undo the rewind lever by turning it anti-clockwise.

 

Once you have the top plate off, you'll need to remove the prism. To do this, you'll need to desolder the wires connecting to the two photocells and undo two screws holding down the metal plate over the prism. The can then be lifted out and you can clean all the glass parts.

 

Joe Chan

If you want to use AE, then I say the T90 is definitely better than the F-1 (I have both). The F-1 does not have AE lock - the T90 does if AE mode is selected with partial metering. The F-1 instruction manual actually recommends NOT using the F-1 partial metering screen with AE mode!

 

Joe Chan

Kristen

 

Have you tried setting the camera to one of the "Continuous" speeds so the triangle is pointing at "L" or "H" (I think, haven't got my camera to hand to check). This sorted out the problem on one of my T90's.

 

Joe

Godfrey,

 

I think I understand what you're saying but...

 

Going back to my previous example, suppose both the film camera's 28mm lens and the digital camera's 17mm lens both exhibit the same amount of aberration at the centre, say a 0.5mm thick fringe on a high-contrast boundary, and the film image is enlarged 10x and the digital image is enlarged 15x to get the same-sized print, then the digital print will show an aberration 7.5mm compared with the film print's aberration of 5mm, yes? The digital print's reproduction of the aberration may be sharper but it will still be larger than the film print's wouldn't it?

 

Don't get me wrong, I use both film and digital cameras and don't actually worry about lens aberrations but I think this is an interesting discussion (being an engineer).

...But Joseph, doesn't the center of the lens usually give the highest resolution and lowest aberration of the entire image field?

...

 

Absolutely true but what I'm getting at is that in order to produce a print of a scene using a 35mm film camera and a digital camera with APS-sized sensor, suppose you use a 28mm lens on the film camera and 17mm lens on the digital camera (to get approximately the same field of view in both images), the image you get from the digital camera has to me enlarged more than the film image to produce the same print size. Hence, any lens aberrations at the centre of the 28mm lens will be enlarged too.

 

Am I right or wrong?

Using the D70, whatever lens abberations there are at the center portion of the lens will be magnified more because of the greater enlargement necessary for the APS sized sensor. So I'm not convinced you'll notice improved sharpness going from film to digital with the same lens.

<b>IT can be basically automatic minus the focusing right?</b>

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Yes, it has program mode and also program shift so you can still adjust the automatically selected aperture / shutter combo to suit the exposure.

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<b> I can set the apeture with the finger dial, and then it sets the shutter right? </b>

<br>Yes, it has aperture priority mode too.

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<b>And does the T90 have vertical controls? I cant seem to find an answer to that.</b>

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The only vertical control you can add is an optional shutter release which screws into the remote release socket. However, this accessory is very rare - I sold mine a few years ago for a very nice sum.

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Joe Chan

On the RM, the meter isn't detachable. You simply set the required shutter speed and this alters the meter's scale. The meter's needle then points to the required aperture.

 

The RM cannot be used with FD lenses. The diaphragm lever is totally different even though the mount is the same. As already mentioned, you need to find Canon R lenses.

 

Joe Chan