joe chan

<p>And to answer why your other shot didn't have the flare, you may have moved (or the sun or leaves moved) so that your lens was shaded from the sun.</p>

<p>According to the dpreview.com review of the S90, DPP is supplied with the camera and works with it:<br>

<a href="http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/canons90/page7.asp">http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/canons90/page7.asp</a></p>

<p>I'm not sure what you mean by the actuator arm but have you tried removing the finder from the camera and cleaning the contacts both on the finder and the camera body?</p>

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<p>It's hard to tell if the problem was the camera, its settings, or post processing from your examples unless we examine your raw files. I have seen this problem before (on an EOS 10D) when I heavily post processed blue skies, e.g. darkening them to increase saturation. I had a look through my collection of EOS 5D II images containing large areas of single tones (e.g. deep blue skies) but I can't find any examples of the problem you have.<br>

<img src="../photo/10306013" alt="" /></p>

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<p>[You should not have to press the shutter button halfway to make an initial shutter and aperture selection in Manual mode.]<br>

I said I press the shutter button halfway to activate the camera and turn the meter on - if the camera is in standby, turning either control dial does nothing!<br>

I think that Miles has activated the rear LCD by pressing on the joystick. You then have to select the shutter or aperture value on the rear LCD and adjust it with either dial.<br>

If you don't activate the rear LCD and make sure the top LCD is active, then you can use the control dials to adjust the shutter and aperture settings.<br>

The 5DII is the first EOS I've owned where Canon have combined the power switch with the control dial lock. They used to be two separate switches but I guess Canon decided that took up too much space on the back.</p>

<p>I think the problem is that you're using the camera's rear LCD to change your settings. I activate the camera by half pressing the shutter release <em>whilst looking through the viewfinder</em>. That turns the meter on and I can adjust the shutter speed and aperture using the two control dials.</p>

<p>I'm not sure there is a problem. Do you mean the lens iris doesn't open or close when you rotate the lens aperture ring?</p>

<p>You could perhaps try correcting the verticals in the three images before trying to stitch them.</p>

<p>The red dot means your camera is in the stopped down metering mode. To get it out of this mode, make sure the stop down lever is out - if it's engaged, you need to push the silver button that's exposed when the lever is engaged. You then need to cock the shutter. If it's already cocked, you need to push the multiple exposure lever and then re-cock the shutter. Then fire the shutter (you'll need a battery for this). This may or may not fix your mirror problem.</p>

<p>Great news Pete. I suggest you should now replace the foam with non-adhesive foam. Look up the seller "interslice" on ebay. He is highly recommended by many, including me.</p>

<p>In the past, I have replaced foam myself, using the self adhesive type, and the foam twisted round so the adhesive stuck to the door. But if there is no movement at all, it sounds like the catch is not releasing in which case I have no idea how to help.</p>

<p>When was the last time you opened it? It's possible the foam light seal around the back has deteriorated and become sticky. When you pull the film rewind knob up you should feel the spring resistance and most likely the door catch is being released. Try pulling the door open at the same time and seeing if it is just stuck by the foam.<br>

If it is the foam, it's time to replace it!</p>

<p>I don't think you can avoid smudges with any screen on the back of the camera - I can't with my greasy nose! But at least with a glass screen protector, you don't have to worry about scratching it when polishing the grease off.</p>

<p>To those who keep saying Canon have replacement screen protectors available - that may be true but I wouldn't trust them to have them in stock. I would rather keep a couple of the GGS $8 glass protectors spare.</p>

<p>I bought a GGS glass screen protector for my 5D II and highly recommend it. I bought mine from eBay - search for GGS 50D.</p>

<p>I'm a hobbyist photographer and have uploaded a few of my photos on this website and others. I have recently received a request for "a digital copy of the photograph that I would be able to have put onto canvas". After getting over my initial joy from the flattery, I am now unsure how to respond to the request.<br /> <br /> The requester says the photo is for display in his own home and I've no reason to doubt this but I'm concerned about supplying a digital file that could, in theory, be printed any number of times and even sold on without my knowing.<br /> <br /> How should I supply the digital file of the photo? Ideally, I would like to supply the file to an online website and let the requester order his print there but then I would have to find a site local to his country and one that would supply a print in the finish he wants, etc. I have checked out stock agencies and microstock sites but I don't think these are suitable for this purpose.<br /> <br /> I don't expect to make any other sales (though that would be nice!). Should I just trust the requester and ask him for a one-off payment and send him the file? (No, I don't think so!).<br /> <br /> Should I ignore the request and save myself the bother? (No, I don't like this idea as no one ends up happy!)<br /> <br /> Please offer me some advice.<br /></p>

<p>I was a teenager when the Canon A-1 was launched and my confused hormones made me think what a sexy camera this was (girls were next but you don't have to talk to a camera!). My Dad wouldn't buy me one and I did'nt have the kind of money for an SLR so I made do with a magazine advert of the A-1 stuck on my wall.<br>

After I graduated from university, I finally had enough money to buy an SLR and went for the Minolta X-700. I still wanted the A-1 but that was discontinued and the X-700 was the closest looking SLR that was still available new! However, one day I came across a nice condition used A-1 and memories of my previous teenage lust made me buy it.<br>

Years later, eBay arrived and I came across loads of other FD cameras and I became determined to own every FD camera! So I pretty much have one of each example of FD camera body and a large collection of lenses. I have stopped now because of space limitations.</p>

<p>Looking at your photo more closely, I see that you are pointing down towards the cot. I think you're too close to the cot for the light from the flash to reach that part. Are you having the same problem with other photos without the cot?</p>

<p>I use the supplied Canon Digital Photo Professional to open the RAW file and then use the "Transfer to Photoshop" menu selection (keyboard <Alt>P).</p>

<p>Are you using a lens hood when you use the flash? If yes, it may be the hood is casting a shadow.<br>

Alternatively, you may be too close to your subject. In this case, try standing further back and zooming in with the lens.</p>

<p>I don't know about the Giottos protector but I bought the GGS one - search the e**y auction site for "GGS 5D" and they cost a lot less than $30. I can highly recommend the GGS - it has anti reflection coating and is rigid. It only has adhesive on the edges and this is important as it prevents the appearance of air bubbles that you get with the cheap PDA screen protectors.</p>

<p>As Bob says above, you can buy a Nikon F to EOS mount adapter</p>

<p>My EOS 3 seems to drain the battery over a period of a few months even when it's not used. Years ago, I had an EOS 10 that did the same. I don't know if this is by design or if I was unlucky but I now keep a battery grip with AA batteries on my EOS 3 instead of using the more expensive 2CR5 battery. I don't have this problem with my 1V.</p>

<p>I don't know if you can convert a Canon FD or Konica mount to Minolta MD but you could try contacting these people:<br>

<a href="http://www.srb-griturn.com/lens-conversions-756-p.asp">srb-griturn.com</a><br>

I'm sure they could provide the answer.</p>

<p>I think the streak is too well-defined to be caused by a light leak. More likely the film was scratched - were you using negative or reversal film?<br>

If the scratches were only at the start of the film, hopefully whatever caused the scratching has now gone (e.g. grit in the film canister / felt trapping etc.)</p>