terryc

<p>I use both the OM-D and E-P5 as has been pointed-out both make the noise described by the OP. It is related to the 5 axis IBIS and has been widely discussed on various photography forums.<br>

Jamie you are right-on it does not happen with the E-P3, P2, or P1 for that matter but those bodies don't have the same IS system as the OMD or EP5.<br>

Cheers, Terry.</p>

Every Friday morning 8:30 am to around 10 am at the Zen Cafe on Yew St.(close to Kits Beach) or most Tuesday evenings at Benny's on Broadway from around 6:30 pm to 9 pm. I believe the last Tuesday of the month is excluded. Tom A. lives across the street from the Zen Cafe and if he is in town you will most likely see him there. He does attend the Tuesday evening gathering if he is in town. This all very casual and I would not call it a club by any definition.

Cheers. Terry.

Thanks Kei,

Now if I could find away to Tokyo! A life long dream I might add!

Cheers. Terry.

Kei,

Nicely done! I love the GR sofar. I am having some difficulty getting the lens hood and 21mm adapter here in Canada but will keep trying.

Cheers. Terry.

Greetings

Anyone street shooting with the Ricoh GR Digital.

Cheers. Terry

http://homepage.mac.com/terrycioni

http://homepage.mac.com/terrycioni/grd (first hour with it...)

I use several TA Rapidwinders (including a Barnack winder on a IIIF) and have a Bessa T winder on a R3A and there simply is no comparison. None. The TA Rapidwinder is built for a lifetime + of use and that is not the case for the Bessa T Winder.

As for Tom giving the Bessa T winder a good review, in my conversations with Tom - he says that it is what is - the only winder available for the Bessa(s), and it is a reasonable price for the build quality. If Tom built a winder for the Bessa - that is what I would want on my Bessa camera(s), as has been pointed out - he does not.

Cheers. Terry

www.streetfusion.smugmug.com

Hi Skip,

I have used an Abrahamsson Barnack Winder on a IIIF, they are beautifully constructed and smooth as silk.

I use it for two reasons, I am a left-eyed shooter and that means I don't have to lower the camera to wind the film, and I find it much faster than turning the wind knob on the IIIF.

I live in Vancouver and know Tom A (we drink alot of coffee together). He on occassion carries a IIIG with a Barnack winder and it is just pure silk to use - there is something about the combo that makes you want to own a IIIG and Barnack Winder :) I also have the TA winders on an M6 and M4P.

I love the IIIF with the collapsable Summatar 50 F2

Cheers. Terry.

http://streetfusion.smugmug.com

Greetings,

In my humble opinion the RD-1 is in no way a Leica (film) body replacement - keep those Leicas and your scanners I am. In fact I am keeping the Leica D2. To answer a couple questions about the gallery. I did not use USM on any of the images posted. Please don't make any judgements about <image quality> from my web gallery - those poor JPGs get hammered alot to get them there and then smugmug does it's thing and your monitor and mine are likely different. My simplist and general rule of thumb is - one needs the full size original JPG/RAW to really make an informed judgement on camera output/image quality. I had a couple printed at good local shop and they look good to me. I did not use the provided Epson software - to control the vignett on the 21mm F4. It saved me from having to edge burn (some people hate edge burn I know, but for me it is all about fun and choices).

Thank you for reading.

Terry

www.streetfusion.smugmug.com

Hi All,

I had the opportunity thanks to Tom Abrahamson to use the RD-1 for three days and all three days it rained - it is Vancouver, enough said.

I did not shoot RAW or blank white walls. I used the black and white mode (which I found to be very useable - filters and all) primarily at 400 ISO. My hope was that I could use the RD-1 as a digital replacement for my film rangefinder gear, M6/7/4P/,etc. I shot with the VC 21/ mostly at F4 which did vignett as I expected (they include very software to correct this when it happens). I also used it with a TRI-ELMAR wide open and the result were exceptional. It has 28/35/50 framelines on the camera and I believe this to be the sweet spot range of lenses for the RD-1. The TRI-ELMAR was a stellar and very useable combo with the RD-1. The 1:1 rangefinder is super, but it seems this maybe the source of some of the reported rf problems. I did manage to shoot 11 frames with the new 50 F1.4 ASPH, and I was impressed with the combination of the RD-1 and this new 50 Summilux.

Of some interest, I did not experience any rangefinder issue as reported by other good folks. The battery is under powered so buy two or three to have as backup. As it happens I met with Tom the other night and he had the RD-1 with him... so I checked-out RAW write speed... it is a bit slow but very useable.

I found the RD-1 easy to use and without a lot of button/bell/whistle stress can be used like an M7 in my world. I liked the dial (although not a digital display)on top, the operating menu options are simple to use and not multi-layered as are some cameras out there. I kept the LCD display closed and treated the SD card like film. Looking at the images when I got to my computer - at least I didn't have to brew up any chemistry to view the film. No chimping - no missing shots while I chimp. I reckoned you can't chimp when shooting TRI-X, XP2 or whatever so off I went totally resolved not to look as I shot. I was not disappointed. All said and done I now have a digital choice for some super prime lenses from Leitz, Voigtlander, etc.

As for noise. I think Epson has spent some time on this and the 200 through 800 ISO images all look pretty close when it comes to digital noise. This is the same sensor as the D100 but it has matured and been nicely tweaked by Epson. 1600 ISO looks a bit like scanned TRI-X but somehow smoother. Some might argue it is almost to smooth. You can always add grain in post.

The RD-1 with a good 35 or 50mm Cron will produce some great results. Because of the so called crop factor, what I missed is a 35mm F2 equivalant, I don't own or have access to a 24mm Summicron (roughly equivalant to a 36mm in full frame terms) and it would have been interesting to see if could replace the 35mm Summicron in my kit bag.

I shoot primarily street scenes in and around Vancouver and I took it into a couple of rough spots - it is not as quiet as I would have liked but it is not as noisy as a Bessa R2 but louder than a Leica M7. I do use a Digilux 2 on the street - and it is quiet, the "sound of one hand clapping". I stress this is all personal opinion, I shoot for fun, not profit. The RD-1 is a cool piece of kit. That said I don't think it should or could be compared to the DSLR kits available these days. For what this is worth, in my very humble opinion I think Leica can do it better but for a price somewhere far north of an M7. If the RD-1 were 1800US I might raid the piggy bank. $3000US buys a whole lot of film!

Thanks for reading.

Terry Cioni

www.streetfusion.smugmug.com