chad_worthman1

When using strobe, I think of the shutter speed controlling the balance of flash and ambient,

and aperture controls the exposure of the subject.

 

In any case, you've exceeded your flash sync, if you really need a fast flash sync, you could

get a Nikon D70. It uses an electronic shutter over 1/500 (I think that's the speed) and can

sync well over 1/1000 via PC cord.

I've had very similar experiences. Funny that lots of others have as well. I once

photographed a a Rememberance Day parade and ceremony with a Mamiya C330s and

180mm lens. People tended to get out of my way so "the pro" could get the photos he

needed. Then there are the other people who don't know what you're holding and have no

second thoughts about walking or standing in front of you.

Nice photos, but I despise that web interface.

<p>I'd start by reading everything on this website:

 

<br><br><a href="http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html">http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html</a>

<p>Then I'd look at buying the "Starving Student off camera lighting kit":

<br><br>

<a href="http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/05/round-up-starving-student-off-camera.html">http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/05/round-up-starving-student-off-camera.html</a>

I'd say meter as if you're using 400, then manually add 3 stops (400-800, 800-1600, 1600-3200). If you meter f/5.6 @ 1/250th for ISO 400, manually change it to f/5.6 @ 1/2000, or f/16 @ 1/250, or any equivalent exposure. It's easy to override, because it's not coupled to the shutter/aperture.

I've got a D70s and I'm keeping my F80. You won't get much for the F75, I think $150-200 is optimistic. I don't use the F80 as much, but I think it's worth keeping.

 

Chad

If it's being used by a Magnum photographer in the Congo and Iraq, for award winning photos, would you could call the Olympus digicam line professional.

 

Alex Majoli:

http://www.robgalbraith.com/bins/multi_page.asp?cid=7-6468-7844

I use an SB-26 with my F80 and D70s, it's not TTL with the D70s, but it's fully functioning with the F80. It's also got a built-in slave. KEH has them used for under $100.

Hi there,

 

I'm considering getting an Opus Pro umbrella kit from an internet

dealer to have a go at "studio lighting". Instead of buying a

monolight kit, I thought I might pick up this kit which contains a

stand, 46" convertible umbrella, and a hot-shoe adapter to use with my

Nikon SB-26 speedlight.

 

It's the kit at the bottom of this page. With a current promo, it

will cost about $100 USD.

 

http://www.opusprophoto.com/products/lighting_kits/m_series_kits.html

 

I plan on using it mostly to take photos of my wife and baby daughter

with my Nikon D70s. Am I crazy to buy this kit in order to start

learning some lighting techniques? If it works out, would I be crazy

to buy a second kit and a second used SB-26, for a grand total of

about $200 ($300 with the first umbrella kit)? I think it could make

a very portable setup for pretty cheap. Any advice?

 

Thanks,

 

Chad

I was thinking because the D70s is able to control the SB-600's, I wouldn't need an SB-800.

 

Would I be able to do wireless multi-flash with the F80, 1 SB-600, and 1 SB-800?

Hi there,

 

I'm investigating the possibility of either buying a small lighting

kit, like the Alien Bees Digibee or similar, or buying 2 Nikon SB-600

speedlights. I'm a hobbyist with a Nikon D70s and Nikon F80. I'm

currently using a single SB-26 for lighting.

 

I'm thinking I'd use the lights for baby and family portraits, and

maybe occasional still life.

 

I'd like the setup to be compact, portable, and versatile. 2 SB-600

speedlights would run about $350-400 USD with shipping to Canada. Is

there any viable option with studio lights for my budget and needs?

 

I'd like the option of umbrellas and soft boxes, but I don't think the

room they'd take up would go over well with the wife.

 

Am I thinking correctly that for occasional use, by someone who

doesn't want to fiddle too much, that the 2 speedlights is the better

option? Wireless TTL with multiple flashes sounds nice, but what

would I be missing out on?

 

Thanks,

 

Chad

You could good shots with a Minolta, just as much as Canon or Nikon, or any other brand. The downside is that Konica Minolta is leaving the photography business all together, so it'll be hard to find a Konica-Minolta DSLR and it might be hard to get it repaired.

 

If I were you, I'd look at other brands.

I did a little testing last night and it appears that if I use the TC, and open the lens wide open (2.8) , then close to 4 and 5.6 the meter responds each time, which contradicts what Bueh is telling me and supports my original assumption. If what you're saying is correct Bueh, wouldn't the meter keep the same value from 2.8 to 5.6?

 

If you use extension tubes, there's an exposure compensation factor because of the extra distance from the front element to the film plane. I thought it would be the same for the TC. I can't see how a TC can avoid that effect.

Thanks for the advice, if I decide to keep the camera I think I'll get a split image focusing screen.

 

Chad

OK, I got it now.

 

Thanks very much,

 

Chad

There are no markings for 32 and 45, but that's what I thought the effective aperture would be, f/22 on the lens, with 2 extra stops for the teleconverter, makes it effectively f/45.

 

Internally to the lens, the aperture is the same size for f/22 (without TC) and f/45 (with TC), but the teleconverter only lets 1/4 the light through, so the /f22 aperture is effectively f/45.

 

The lens marking says it's still f/22, but you still have to lengthen the shutter 2 stops.

 

Does that make sense?

Thanks,

 

That's different than I expected. I thought all apertures would be effectively 2 stops slower. So you're saying that when you attach a 2X teleconverter to a lens with the aperture range of 2.8 - 22, it becomes a 5.6 - 22 and not a 5.6 - 45?

Hi there,

 

I've got a Mamiya M645 with 80mm 2.8 lens and a Rokunar 2X MC6

teleconverter. The previous owner told me that this 2X teleconverter

has a 2 stop effect on the exposure.

 

When using the teleconverter without flash, my metered prism is TTL,

so I don't have to worry about exposure compensation, correct?

 

What about when I'm using flash? I'm using a Nikon SB-26 mounted on

the hot shoe in Auto mode, I enter my film speed the same as the

meter, but do I manually boost the f-stop on the flash?

 

For example, say a shot requires F/5.6 @ 1/60 secs with the 2X

teleconverter on the lens. Do I set F/11 (2 stops more light) on the

flash?

 

Thanks,

 

Chad

I recently got a used Mamiya M645 with 80mm 2.8 lens and the metered

prism viewfinder.

 

I'm finding it difficult to focus accurately indoors in fairly low

light, such as a living room lit with 1 or 2 100W lamps.

 

The focusing screen doesn't appear to have a split image, which would

probably help. I'm keeping the aperture open while focusing, then

stopping down before I press the shutter.

 

I feel like I'm frequently guessing at the focus point, going back and

forth trying to make sure the shot is in focus. I got this camera

last week and haven't gotten any film processed yet, so I'm still not

sure how successful my attempts will be.

 

Any tips on focusing with this camera, lens, viewfinder, focusing

screen combination?

 

Thanks,

 

Chad

I had a similar issue on my old Mamiya C330s. I found the issue was that the connections weren't very good. I pinched the connectors on the sync cable to hold the connection a little tighter.

Thanks for the advice everyone, for $75 Canadian, I got both, along with leather cases, and wide and tele converters.

 

Both cameras are in 100% working and in very good to excellent condition.

I have an opportunity to buy some older MF cameras: Bronica C (with

75mm and 150mm), Yashica-Mat, Yashica Mat-124G, Mamiya M645 (with 80mm

2.8).

 

Between the Yashicas, which is the better choice, assuming condition

is equal?

 

I know the older Yashica-Mat doesn't have a meter, but some sites I've

found seem to suggest the older Yashica-Mat is the best choice of all

Yashica TLRs.

 

Any advice?

I'm sorry, but I'd have to agree with the camera stores.

 

With time you'll learn that the lens you're looking for doesn't quite exist. There are always compromises.

 

If you want to stand a distance away from someone, in the dark, and get a sharp, well exposed photo of someones face, with a zoom lens, you're going to have trouble no matter how much money you have to spend.

 

I'd suggest beginning with cityscapes with the Nikkor 50mm 1.8D and a decent tripod. Take your time, practise and learn before you empty your wallet buying things to try to make your photos better.

 

You could look at something with VR (AF-S VR Zoom-Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8G IF-ED), that will let you drag the shutter a bit. I have no idea how much it costs or how well it works.

 

Good luck!

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<img src="http://static.flickr.com/3/6309840_f2265cbd21_o.jpg"><p>

<img src="http://static.flickr.com/3/6309566_b797959bca_o.jpg">

I have the lab process my 120 and I scan it with a Canon 8400F. It comes with a 120 film tray.

 

It's not the best, but it's good enough for sharing photos online or making small prints. I figure I'd take the negative (or slide) to a lab for a large print.

 

Chad