znabal

<p>I don't consider myself much of a pixel peeper, and I tend to believe as <a href="http://www.seanduggan.com/books/index.html">Sean Duggan</a> says "sharpness is overrated"....with that in mind, I find the 2x MKII with my 70-200L IS M1 on a 5D M1 unacceptable for most applications....I've found I'd rather crop until I save money for the 400 2.8L IS.</p>

<p>I've spent a few days going along that coast a number of times in the past couple years...from Zadar, Sibenik, Krka down thru Trogir and Split down the Makarska Riviera on to Ston and Dubrovnik. I did a separate trip that included Montenegro, Kotor, Herzeg Novi, Perast etc. You won't run out of photo graphic subjects. All the places mentioned in prior responses are nice. Many of these places are on<a href="http://whc.unesco.org/en/list"> UNESCO's World Heritage List</a>.<br>

My favorites are probably Sibenik and Trogir, but it is a tough call. The only advice I'd have is to walk the Dubrovnik wall on a week day vice a weekend to avoid too many people. Some of my photos from Croatia can be found <a href="http://labanz.blogspot.com/search/label/Croatia">here</a>. Most importantly...Have Fun! jeffl</p>

<p>The Lake Bled and Vintgar Gorge area in Slovenia can be quite nice. Have fun -jeffl</p><div></div>

<p>The applicable "Service Notice" is here:<br>

http://www.usa.canon.com/consumer/controller?act=PgComSmModDisplayAct&fcategoryid=215&modelid=11933&keycode=2112&id=55659<br>

I called Canon up, shipped mine in and had it back a couple weeks later (clean and free of dust too:)<br>

It should be repaired free of charge. good luck -jeffl</p>

 

<p>1) Have a job that takes you places or moves you around<br>

2) Point of view...look at where you are and see what people travel there to see<br>

3) Vacation!<br>

4) Make/save lots of money</p>

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<p>Over the years, in order, these item are what had the most impact on my photography: Multi-point auto focus; auto frame advance, auto-bracketing (with my EOS 10s); various in-camera metering choices tied to auto-focus points (EOS 3); histogram, changing ISO on the fly (with my EOS 5D), Image Stabilization (70-200mm 2.8L) - jeffl</p>

<p>I keep a list (in my draft email). In addition to subject matter, it may include time of day, type of weather, time of year etc. depending on what I need to get what I want. - jeffl</p>

<p>I like chocolate, I hate eggplant. You'd really have to screw up chocolate to get less than a 5 from me. I'll never give eggplant above a 3...</p>

<p>I see two separate issues...<br>

First is the snapshot issue, I always qualify a snapshot by saying "this is a quick snapshot, no editing etc". If someone doesn't understand the difference, oh well.<br>

Second is the posting everything issue...my teenage daughter does that too. It seems to be especially common on a lot of the social sites. I've tried to show her that by only showing the best 1 out of every 10, that her photos become 10x better right away.<br>

After vacations etc, I've taken to picking a handful, 3 -5 that I quickly process so that my wife is at least a little bit satisfied and has something to post. My daughter posts her own, oh well :) -jeffl</p>

<p>Yesterday I had the mirror fall off of my EOS 5D...the dreaded "Service Notice EOS 5D Main Mirror Detachment"<br>

http://www.usa.canon.com/consumer/controller?act=PgComSmModDisplayAct&fcategoryid=215&modelid=11933&keycode=2112&id=55659<br>

on the phone they have been nice, but I'll tell you how the rest of it goes after it is repaired and I get it back.. -jeffl</p>

<p>70-200 2.8L IS on a 5D for landscape, travel, and general walk around. The 16-35 and 24-70 don't get used half as much between them. -jeffl</p>

 

<p>Australia is a big place...just driving from Alice Springs to Ayers Rock is like 450 kilometers. It is also a big place when it comes to landscapes...from Great Ocean Road between Melbourne and Adelaide to all the various sights to see in the Red Center. Even Kakadu is huge, like 1/2 million acres, similar in size to Isreal. Have fun -jeffl</p>

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<p>Cool...the argument was once and for all ended in the definition<strong>:</strong><br>

<strong>Photography</strong> ...creating still or moving <a title="Image" rel="nofollow" href="../wiki/Image" title="Image">pictures</a> by recording <a title="Radiation" rel="nofollow" href="../wiki/Radiation" title="Radiation">radiation</a> on a sensitive medium...<br>

EXACTLY what a CRT monitor does ...presents a picture by recording radiation on a sensitive medium....I control my CRT via photoshop...BTW Does anyone have a good CAM (CRT Asset Managment) system....I've shot lots of CRT's and am not very organized about it.</p>

 

<p>I wouldn't think that fixing a hot pixel would be manipulation, that would be like removing dust to me. Fixing a blown area would be like dodging/burning in the dark room so by some peoples' definition, that would be manipulation.</p>

<p>Also, bit depth determines the theoretical maximum dynamic range. Playing games with sampling types, companding (use of curves is essentially a companding technique) etc can get you some gains beyond linear sampling (at a cost of some sort). Just because you have some huge a/d though doesn't mean it necessarily is a match for your sensor or that everything is honky dory and running at the theoretical limits...that your camera has 12 stops of dynamic range. A fairly decent explanation can be found here: http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/dynamic-range.htm -jeffl</p>

<p>It has been a while but I've been there a few times and also to Pacaya in Guatemala.. A polarizer was always useful. I shot 35mm Sensia 100, negative film should be more forgiving. I can't remember what I dialed back the exposure compensation to, but I do remember in the blackest areas, it would be hard to get details in the lava without blowing out the sky or other light objects. I frequently bracketed. good luck -jeffl wow -PN's interpretation of my photo is interesting...</p><div></div>

<p>After way too many mistakes, I have a routine I follow as I go out the door, or bring the camera out of the bag. These eliminate what were my most common mis-settings. -jeffl<br>

1. Check ISO<br>

2. Check mode<br>

3. Check lens switches are all "forward" (70-200 2.8L tends to be my walkaround and the switches tend to wander)<br>

4. Check exposure compensation.</p>

<p>I say "ouch" when I see Velvia...pretty much the same thing I say when I see something saturated too much (to my eyes) digitally... -jeffl</p>

<p>Having left the shutter open for "three beers" ...I disagree with your basic premise...photography isn't exclusively about capturing this thing you call "an instant". -jeffl</p>

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<p>One of the keys to getting good throughput speeds to/from a NAS is having gigabit ethernet connections the whole way...gigabit ethernet from your computer to a gigabit ethernet router to your gigabit ethernet NAS. Most home routers out there and many home computers' NICs are not gigabit ethernet. -jeffl</p>

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<p>I had all kinds of focus issues with my 24-70 & 70-200 2.8L's...<br>

then I learned how to use them :)<br>

jeffl</p>

<p>The answer then to your root question (which was only about 25% of your original post) is: A "simple" check box won't work because we simply can't agree on the definition of manipulated. <br /> For instance, I wouldn't agree that a double exposure is necessarily manipulated, any more than a lengthy exposure that is lit with bursts of flash, or "painted" with light. I wouldn't agree that correcting (or conversely distorting) perspective (with a lens or software) is necessarily manipulation....so one person's "no manipulation" would be other person's "yes manipulated" and vice versa. Daniel beat me...</p>