rdeanda

<p>As much as I hate the "newspaper shot" tests I ran some tonight. The 18-55 is at 4.8 at 28mm. Shot on a Manfrotto 3001BN, Nikon SB-600, 100 iso using Nikon D80 with Remote Release. The 18-55 VR blew the prime out of the water. So big was the difference that I tested and retested.</p>

<p><img src="http://robertdeanda.com/images/28mm_test.jpg" alt="" width="900" height="600" /></p>

<p>Sorry in advance if this has been answered already. I did not see anything while searching. I own both of these lenses, the 28mm being a carry over from my film days. I was looking for some feedback from any shooters who use the 28mm 2.8 on a DSLR. I own a D90, and just recently acquired the 18-55 vr, mainly to get my wide angle back. How does it compare to the kit lens, which I keep hearing great things about? Thanks in advance for your feedback.</p>

Michael,

 

How are you firing your D50 remotely? I don't think that the D50 has a commander mode.

I use the MB16 battery grip on my N80. It is no more than a battery holder with the added benefit of allowing me to use AA type batteries. However, since I have large hands, it is a great investment as far as improved ergonomics and handling.

<p>

I just picked up a D50 and also plan to add a simple battery grip for better handling, especially with my SB-600 mounted.

<p>

Another note, the D50 is no less robust as the N80. It has every feature that is necessary for proper photography on both the photographic side (bracketing, spot meter, exposure compensation), as well as the digital side (WB, ISO Control, Histogram...). I think that it represent an awesome value with no real compromises in terms of available control.

Merkury Innovations and Opteka are two of the manufacturers that offer a third party grip. Hoodman has also stated that it will launch one for the D50.

Last week I asked about opinions re D70 vs D50. I received some

great feedback.

<p>

I am the Finance Supervisor for a department store chain in Southern

California. Last week while on a visit to one of our stores, I

noticed that we had D50's on display. The employee price (in my case

5% above cost) was pretty much a deal closer for me, so I brought

home a D50 last night. I see it is as having bought most of

my "film" for the coming year in advance.

<p>

First impressions are very good. I don't see any area in which the

D50 will limit my photography. When I got my N80 and knew that I

could no longer blame the camera for my mistakes, my photographic

skills soared.

<p>

I will be getting a battery grip for it, as I am accustomed to me N80

with MB-16. Any suggestions from grip owners?

I am in the market for a new D70s. I was wondering of the battery

that ships with this model is affected by the recall. And most

importantly, if a camera store such as B&H would have already taken

care of the battery replacement before selling the camera. <p> Thanks

in advance for your assistance.

I have been shooting for about 4 years having moved from compact

digital cameras (Olympus C700, Fujifilm S5000) to a film based Nikon

system consisting of the following:

<p>

Nikon N80+MB16, Nikkor 28mm 2.8 AF-D, Nikkor 50mm 1.8 AF-D, Nikkor

28-200 ED, Nikkor 70-300 G, Nikon SB-600, Bogen 3001NB / 486RC

<p>

I currently shoot Provia 100,and Kodak 400UC, scanning at home with

my Minolta Scan Dual IV. I shoot urban landscapes, macro, and

portraits mostly (no sports). Samples available here:

http://imagesoflosangeles.com/colorgallery.html.htm.

<p>I consider myself to be very good at PhotoShop, and routinely

print at 8x12 and 12x18 being fortunate enough to live near A&I and

Sammy's Camera in Hollywood. I guess you can say I take

this "Hobby" very seriously.

<p>

Well, I am spending too much time and money on film/processing and

have been cutting back on my shooting as a result (which is bad). I

want to add a DSLR to my system. It will most likely be a D50 or

D70s. My questions are:

<p>

- Where (when) will I still shoot film over digital?

<p>

- Will 12x18 from 6MP stand up to Provia Scans? (proper technique &

Lens of course)

<p>

- Do you recommend a 18-70Dx, or 18-35? (AF-S aside)

<p>

- D50 or D70s?

<p>

As always, your input is greatly appreciated.

Thanks guys. I shot with an N80, ISO 100 film, aperture probably F/4. What I ended up doing to correct the shot was to remove the diffuser which causes flash to lose about 2 stops. Thanks again

I shot in P mode on camera, SB600 in TTL tilted at 45 degrees with a

stofen disffuser and received a warning that the shot was

underexposed by 1.3.

<p>

Does this mean that on my next shot (same scene), I should set flash

compensation to +1.3?

<p>

Thanks

Just wanted to see a cyber show of hands from those that add grain

(the effect at least) to color digital capture images. Also, from

those that scan film, and do not remove the grain.

<P>

I hear alot of film purist who claim that they do not like the

plastic look of digital capture, and have read of people that add

grain to DSLR files.

I use a 28mm 2.8 AF-D and can confirm that it has practically no flare. I also use the HN-2 Lens Hood with it.

<P>

However, I have read that due to the reflection of a digital sensor, flare may be more of a problem with a DSLR than a film SLR.

Hello Andrew,

 

I already own 28mm and 50mm primes. What I am looking for is a lighweight telephoto.

<P>

Anyhow, I pulled the trigger on the 28-200 ED today at Samy's camera.

<P>

First impressions are positive. It is smaller than a 28-80 G lens. Focuses down to 1.4 feet at 200MM as opposed to 5 feet for the 70-300 ED. The focusing speed is much much better than the 70-300 ED. I will test it further tomorrow.

Thanks for the replies. The 80-200 2.8 is not on my list. I guess I should have pointed at that I like lightweight for walking around town.

I currently shoot with an N80 and my most often used lenses are my

28mm and 50mm primes. However, I also own a 70-300G which I mostly

use for outdoor portraits, or for bringing in details in

architecture.

<P>

I was planning on upgrading to the 70-300 ED mostly for build quality

and sex appeal (JK!). I don't normally shoot over 200mm (or even at

that).

<p>

Would it make more sense for me to get a 28-200 ED G instead?

I like grain too, however, in BW and not in color.

I will post results once I am back home. You're right about having to boost up the contrast ( I must have typed that in too fast). However, I am applying NeatImage in the middle of the workflow. When I increase the contrast the grain is still kept to a minimum.

I stopped shooting negative film due to the amount of grain in film

scans. So I went with slide film (Sensia 100), and was satisfied.

After running slide scans through NeatImage, I get awesome grain free

14MP files that compared well to DSLR images in terms of grain ( or

lack of)

<P>

So last night I had a brain storm and remembered that scanning B/W

negs as positives gave me much less grain. So I tried it with color

negs. I removed the orange cast by setting the white point using a

scan of the film leader, then inverted in photoshop. I adjusted the

curve and reduced the contract and saturation.

<p>

I was shocked with the results! After NeatImage using my same

profile for Sensia, I am getting files from Kodak 400UC with the same

low grain from 100 speed Slide film. Just thought I would share.

The blown highlights were a result of scanning as a negative black and white (software issue). When I scanned as a positive, the histogram was great, and the exposure was excellent with great tones.

<p>

I worked at it a little more today, and got a gorgeous, sharp 8x12 with rich deep blacks. Grain is very smooth and amount of detail is striking. So far I am happy.

<p>

I know that desaturating my Provia 100 will give me good results. But at $10 per roll, I would rather get my negs back ($5) at a lab near USC.<div></div>

Thanks guys. Tonight I scanned a few KODAK BW+ and Ilford XP2 (both chromogenic. The grain was excessive and shadows were blocked and highlights blown.

<p>

Then I scanned them both as color positives, inverted in PhotoShop, and played with the color mixer and curves. The difference was night and day as far as exposure and grain.

<P>

The results from the Kodak BW are awesome. XP2 is still too grainy. Tomorrow I will scan some of my Porta UC400 and convert to BW for comparison.

I currently shoot Provia 100F and scan on my Minolta Scan Dual IV. I

print at A&I (Fuji Frontier). My 8x12's and 10x15 are razor sharp

and grain free.

<p>

Now I want to shoot more black and white. What are your experiences

in getting decent prints using a digital printing workflow. I like

fine grain, however, for black and white I am willing to accept it

more than with color. What film can you recommend for scanning (both

chromogenic and traditional).

<p>

As always, your feedback is greatly appreciated.

I have used this scanner for almost a year. I normally print grainless 10x15 from scanned slide film using the included software Photoshop, and Neatimage.

<p>

I estimate that I spend no more than 2 minutes per scan spotting the dust off. However, I remove the dust only when I am ready to send a file out for printing.

<p>

I no longer shoot negative film. The grain (or appearance of grain) is excessive even with slow ISO film. Forget about processing negative film deceloped at a 1 hour place. I got fed up of scratched, and dirty negatives.

I live in Los Angeles, and have noticed something when I am out shooting. When I go to the tourist places, I see lots of manual focus cameeras. Sure there are alot of digitals, put they are P&S. On a recent trip to the Getty center, I noticed many manual focus Canon SLR's. I did not see any digital rebels or D70's like I though I would. Then I spotted a Nikon with an LCD screen and I got closer to take a look. It was a Nikon F6!

<p>

Same thing happened last week on Hollywood's walk of fame. No sign of DSLR's, but many film SLRS.

I shoot only slide film for my serious work. I scan at home using a Minolta Scan Dual IV. I get my prints made at a local lab for $7 for 8x12 and $10 for 10x15 from the CD I hand them.

<P>

I gotta tell you, with the incredibly crip and grain free prints that I get, I no longer lust after a DSLR (at least not for the time being.)

My mother loves to take pictures of the family. She has only owned point and shoot style cameras. When I realized that she no longer had a camera, and was buying disposables, I got her an Olympus Epic. Later as a gift I got her an Olympus Epic Digital.

<p>

Last month, my dad handed me a CD filled with over 500 images that was no longer readable so that I might try to recover them. I failed. Digital is still in it's infancy as someone else pointed out.

<p>

I have had my share of lost images, including problems due to corrput SmartMedia cards a few years back (remember those?) I now shoot slide film. When digital offers me a true archive safe solution, I will return full time. Also, when digital offers me full frame, 14MP, wide angle shots, for less than the price of a used car, I will return full time.