jason_enn

I recently bought a used 9xi and have been quite pleased with it. I thought the way Minolta

designed the electronic viewfinder perfect and it's 1/300th flash sync works very well for

what I use it for. Although I mostly manually focus for the types of shots I'm using it for, I

have a question about it's auto-focus. In the auto-focus mode, it focuses automatically on

whatever you point it at, wether you are holding down the shutter button halfway or not. It is

a bit of an annoyance coming from the 7000 and the 5 where they operate more like normal

cameras.

I haven't seen any option in the manual for turning this option off. I'd rather the camera focus

when I tell it to.

I've read that shipping by UPS Worldwide Express (Air), that all fees are included. KEH seems

to charge a rate of about $30 for UPS Air, and that is a great deal if it includes all fees. I saw

Fedex's chart for brokerage fees, and for an item of this value, they would charge around $40

+ the shipping cost of $20.

I just wanted to double check about the Express = no more fees, because I've read conflicting

reports.

I'm just about to put in order in at KEH for a: HASSELBLAD - 500CM BLACK LATE WITH

WAISTLEVEL, RAPID WINDING CRANK, 80 F2.8 CF T*(B60), A12 BACK, MEDIUM FORMAT SLR

MANUAL FOCUS CAMERA OUTFIT

 

for $559 in "Bargain" condition" and an extra A12 back in "bargain" condition for another

$79.

 

For anyone that has bought used Hasselblad equipment from KEH, what have your

experiences been with "bargain" grade equipment? I've read here that they are

conservative in ratings, but for someone that doesn't really mind if the camera has

cosmetic marks is it worth the extra $250-$300 for the same setup in "Excellent"

condition?

 

I am buying from Canada, and for a package of this value, is UPS air a better choice than

Fedex? I've heard to stay away from UPS ground at all costs, but the more expensive UPS

air works out to be the cheapest, even to Fedex ground?

 

Thanks.

To add to my questions again, does anyone know how big of a problem a lens with

inaccurate (slower than normal) shutter speeds at "slower speeds"? I'm counting on getting a

minor servicing, but I don't want to be in enough where I could have bought a C/M over an

older C.

To add to my questions again, does anyone know how big of a problem a lens with

inaccurate (slower than normal) shutter speeds at "slower speeds"? I'm counting on getting a

minor servicing, but I don't want to be in enough where I could have bought a C/M over an

older C.

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=001xJC

Forget my question about wether the coatings are a deal, I found a post talking about it.

 

Still, does that mean that this is a C lens or what?

I'm purchasing a 500c kit (image attached)

but I wanted help in ID'ing the age of the lens and what type of coating it has. I assume it is

single-coated becuase it doesn't have the "t*" engraving? Are these non-muticoated lenses

worth significantly less than the t* versions? Is it really that big of a deal optically?

 

 

 

<img src="http://i24.ebayimg.com/04/i/05/8c/55/79_3.JPG">

I'm kind of in the same position as you. I'm still using a digi slr for work but I'm still buying a

hassy for what I actually want to shoot, since I just got rid of my old 6x6 TLR the other day.

 

If you ever get back into skate photos you'll love that the hassy system flashsync at all

shutter speeds (like most leaf shutters do). Square format is great, and since you've got

access to a darkroom, I don't see much of a question between digital and film at this point.

"If by flat top, you mean there is just a piece inserted into the hollow, tubular stand, the regular umbrella mount or the products I first referenced will still work"

 

Yep, thats it. The umbrella mount or "super clamp" as manfrotto/bogen calls it is probably my best bet, but thats another $60-70 bucks for two plus shipping. The tops won't come off, they are pinched in so they are not made to move. My vivitars have the regular hotshoe, but I use lightslaves on the bottom of them which have a standard tripod threading. I've mounted them on tripods before but I got these light stands because they are lighter and go higher. Thanks for all the help hopefully I can get manfrotto/bogen to fix this for free, but i doubt it

I don't have a digital camera, but its basically where the regular threaded part should be, is missing, and just a flat, useless, top. Its frustrating because in every single picture I've seen of these, there is a threaded top, the instruction manual even shows this. Even worse is the fact that their rep won't call me back, and the distributor I ordered directly from doesn't seem to have anyone on staff that knows about their products. Most likely I'll have to bend over and buy their "Super Clamps".

 

Thanks for the help though.

they are brand new from Manfrottos disbributor here. In every picture of the stand they have a threaded top. The camera shop has no idea why they don't have a threaded top either. It will cost me just as much as I paid for them to ship them back, so I'm stuck. They are closed right now but I guess I have to wait until tomorrow. So lame.

My light stands have no threads at the top, only a flat brass part that I assume something clamps to. I wonder why they didn't just make threads at the top?

So something like this would work? http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=5156&is=REG&addedTroughType=categoryNavigation

 

What would be the difference between that and the Super clamp? http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=5151&is=REG&addedTroughType=search

What do I need to attach my flashes? manfrotto's site isn't very informative

I've got Manfrotto 052 light stands but I've got no way of attaching

my vivitar flashes to them. My light slaves that attach to the

flashes have a regular tripod mount on the bottom, and i assumed

when i ordered the stands that they would come with a normal head

that would let me screw my flashes in, but they don't. I don't want

to use hot lights at all, so they are useless right now.

n

couldn't find info anywhere on how to process this 120 format film

in any dilution of hc110. anyone know?

"Henry Rollins Black Flag 1983"

 

got any more?

i asked how to develop underexposed hp5+ in the other post and I did

it with hc110 (g) for 8 minutes 20c.

 

 

 

it came out ok<div></div>

I shot some Hp5+ with my flash set at 100asa. What is the best way

to avoid blown out highlights and lack of contrast, or will my

negatives be unusable? I read some older posts suggesting HC110, but

I am looking for more specifics. This film is important to me so I

don't mind searching for a different developer.