hector_evans

<p>It has been a few years since my 40D was introduced. My only complain with it is its low light performace - it is unusable even at ISO 800. Just for this reason, I am thinking of getting a 650D. Anything more expensive is out of the question. Is low light performance and overall image quality better with the 650D? Sample images on the Internet indicate so, but I would like some user opinion. Thanks!</p>

<p>I have been using my calibrated samsung 971P monitor with a desktop Vista PC (digital interface) and now I want to use it as a dual monitor with my Win7 laptop (analog interface). Can I use the .icm file I had on the PC? Actually, I calibrated the monitor again on the laptop but the colors don't look exactly the same as before. I am sure the monitor uses the new profile. Does this mean that calibration was not successful? Thanks.</p>

<p>Based on what was written in this thread, did it occur to you that KR may have written some of the posts in order to generate more controversy? He may have even started the thread! If he did, he sure was successful once again. I link to this thread appeared on the Home Page of Photo.net. </p>

Thanks for your responses!

 

Elmo, I checked the links and they are very interesting.

What are famous photographers mostly using nowdays: digital or film? Any examples of specific photographers and

what camera/lenses they are using would be very interesting. I did a small online research on National Geographic

photographers, but I couldn't find this information.

 

thanks

I think the dark background in this photo was taken with the use of flash, although I'm not sure. I have seen the same

effect in other photos and I would like to know how it is achieved:<br><br>

<a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/3896906">http://www.photo.net/photo/3896906</a>

<br><br>

thanks<br>

Thanks for your replies!

 

Kari, I usually print at 12 x 18 in. (30 x 45 cm)

 

When you say the 50D has better AF, does this mean faster or more accurate?

I am considering upgrading from the XTi/400D to 50D. The only problem I have with my XTi is ISO performance, as I

like to shoot indoors without a flash. Should I expect at least a 2-stop improvment with the 50D? Of course, there is

also the 40D. How much has ISO performance improved between 40D and 50D anyway? I read that there hasn't been

much improvement there.

 

Thanks.

I seem to have an accurate profile of my printer, which I use in Photoshop to proof my prints (Ctrl-Y gives an accurate

picture of what my prints will look like). The problem is that some colors are not printed correctly by my printer. For

example reds look darker and unsaturated. How can I correct this in photoshop? Do I have to do something that

involves color management conversion?

I have the 28-135 IS which I use with my 400D. I noticed that it is very soft at zoom extremes, especially at 28-

35mm. Is this something I should expect of this lens, or should I look for the fault somewhere else?

 

thanks

I tried using the "Dust Delete" feature on my XTi, but it only detects 1 spot. I followed the instructions 3 times exactly

as described in the manual, but the results were about the same (1 or 2 spots detected each time, whereas I have

much more). Has anyone used this feature successfully?

 

thanks

Please disregard my previous post. The people who said that the problem is with my exposures were correct. +1 stop when the sun is bright does solve the problem. Thanks to all who replied.

I think I found the answer to my own question. Page 53 of Rebel XTi/400D user's manual says:<br><br>

 

<b>>>> High temperatures, high ISO speeds, or long exposures may cause irregular colors in the image.</b><br><br>

 

In my case the temperature is always high when I get these strange colors. Case closed?

I am attaching 2 samples to show the problem. My theory about small apertures seems to be wrong because these samples were shot at around f11. My attempt to fix the problem by playing with white balance and saturation was unsuccessful.

 

Thanks for all the replies.

Sample1<div></div>

I noticed than when I shoot in bright sunlight the blue sky looks grey in my

shots. I cannot fully fix this in Digital Photo Professional. I suspect that

this has to do with the small apertures (f18-f22) I use in bright sunlight

conditions. Any suggestions on how to get the correct colors? I have a Rebel

XTi, using manual mode.

 

thanks

So, I calibrated my monitor. Photoshop seems to be using the new profile, but

shouldn't I see an overall color change in Windows (background, Windows

Explorer, etc) as well? I didn't notice such a change.

 

thanks

I just calibrated my monitor for the first time using Spyder2express. At the

end of the calibration process, the software says that from now on whenever I

use profile-aware applications, like photoshop, the new profile will be used.

Question: Assuming sRGB is embedded in my photos, shouldn't I see the same

colors regardless of whether my application is profile-aware or not? In my

case, the colors are a bit more saturated when viewed with IrfanView or

Internet Explorer, as opposed to Photoshop.

 

thanks

I have a Samsung 971P monitor and I ordered Spyder2express to calibrate it. I

know I have to disable Adobe Gamma before the calibration process, but I

noticed that I also have NVIDIA Control Panel which apparently controls the

following on my display card: Brightness(50%), Digital Vibrance(0%), Contrast

(50%), Image Sharpening(0%), Gamma(50%). What am I supposed to do with these

settings in order for my calibration to be successful? I don't think it would

be wise to completely uninstall NVIDIA drivers, as these are needed by the

operating system.

 

Thanks

Thanks to all for your responses.

Am I supposed to <br>

<br>

a) mount the tube on body first, and then mount the lens on the tube? <br>

<br>

or<br>

<br>

b) mount the tube on the lens first, and then mount the assebly on the body?<br>

<br>

And what if I do it the wrong way? I remember reading something in the

instructions that came with my Kenko extension tubes, but I can't find them!<br>

<br>

Thanks

Thanks Colin and Rainer! Changing my IrfanView settings did work and now viewing with IrfanView is as good as viewing with PS!

 

I was wondering whether the various professional photo printing services apply some kind of similar resampling algorithm for their prints.

I convert my photos from RAW to JPEG (max size and quality) using Canon Digital

Photo Professional. Photos without noise appear the same in Photoshop CS2 and

IrfanView. However, noisy photos look much better in Photoshop than in

IrfanView. The noise disappears when my viewer is PS in full-screen mode, but I

can see the noise in 100% magnification. IrfanView, IE, etc, show the noise

even at full-screen mode. Why is that?

I am thinking of buying the Samsung SyncMaster 206BW monitor. Is this a good

monitor for using with Photoshop? I would appreciate your advice, especially if

you already own one. So far I have been using a CRT, and I have no experience

with LCDs.

 

thanks

Hi Colin,

 

I mean that I press the button and nothing happens: no shutter release, no autofocus. I am not sure what triggers it. However, the LCD panel looks normal and light metering keeps working.

 

thanks