benjamin teoh

for those using XP2 and scanning - do you scan in RGB or greyscales?

It looks like the least complicated way to get a traditional print by darkroom printing.

 

John: Do you have any problems scanning the TMax with Digital Ice, or do you switch it off? Is there any difference with TMax or Tri-X?

I am thinking of printing B&W Digital print on Epson 2400 A3+ size, shooting

with a M6.

 

What is the best approach?

 

1. Shoot transparencies (slides), scan, and covert with photoshop?

2. Shoot color neg, scan, and convert with photoshop?

3. Shoot B&W films, scan (either greyscales or RGB) ?

4. Shoot chromatic B&W, scan?

 

I am not sure whether there are other options?

 

I understand that B&W films has problems with Digital Ice, but it is nice to

know that I have a copy of a B&W neg, which could printed in the darkroom at a

later stage.

 

Appreciate your views.....

Thanks for the advice.

 

It is indeed a brave thing to bring a M6 for a 3 week holidays, after a week of using it for the first time. I just like the idea of travelling with a small camera (and the Leica experience !) , but I may bring my Canon digital as a back up.

 

I am planning to scan and print A3+ on Epson 2400. The reason for scanning transaparencies is because I was told that is easier to scan than films, at least for medium froamt, but I am open to any suggestion.

 

I get the impression that to print A3+ requires a dedicated scanner, like Nikon, and an Epson flatbed may not be sufficient. But is a Nikon Coolscan 5000 good enough?

I have bought a M6 and a 50mm summicron, will be shooting my first roll this

week. I will take the camera on a three weeks holidays to Eupore next month. It

will be very different from shooting my Canon digital, but I am looking forward

to it.

 

I will have to consider how to scan all the slides (transparencies). I think

this is the tedious and unpleasant part of shooting films.

 

What is a good workflow for processing and a good scanner? Would a Epson V700 be

sufficient or do most people use a dedicated scanner like a Nikon to ensure that

the quality of a Leica film is preserved?

Thanks Carl for the useful info - I guess it is better to wait until the digital storm settles in a few months.

I am not sure how far back an old lens can be coded for use with M8?

 

I saw this 90mm lens, not sure of the age, but wonder I can upgrade for use with

an M8 later.

 

Any idea?

I am new to Leica and looking for a lens for the M6.

 

There is a big difference in price between the 50 Elmar 2.8 and the Summicron

f2.0, and I wonder whether there is a big difference in the quality of the lens,

apart from being a faster lens in the f2.0? There are a lot of discounting of

the price for the Elamr 2.8 where I live - not sure of the reason.

I have been looking for a M6.

 

I have read in the Forum that some memebers prefer non TTL and I wonder what are

the advantages of having a non TTL, as a TTl could be useful?

 

What are the differences, apart from TTL? and

 

What is a reasonable difference in price between the two? I can the impression

that the TTL has a lower resale value?

I have a 500CM that is working well with a film back. I am thinking of getting a

digital back - should I upgrade it to a 503CW to get the best from the digital

back, or would the old and reliable 500CM works just as well?

 

Do I need to change the lens from a C to CF?

 

I do not need a motorised winder, but I am not sure whether it is required for

the digital back?

 

Appreciate your response....

I am new to medium format and I have just bought a V700 to scan my 6x6

transparencies.

 

A few basic questions (which probably have been addressed but I can't find

them doing a search on the forum):

 

The scan appeared "soft" with incorrect color balance. Is this a problem with

the height adjustment ? and what is the optimal height adjustment? Is there

anything I can do to correct the color balance, apart from adjusting it in PS?

 

I understand that it is best to scan at 4800dpi with 24bit color at the

original size - is this correct?

 

Appreciate your response....

Thanks for the replies.

 

In some way, it is a silly question - of course, I should know how bulky it is . It is just that sometimes it looks okay at home but after a few days, it becomes a burden.

 

I think I will go ahead with it, especially with the option of shooting B&W films. I have shot digital several times before, and all my travelling shots looks very "touristy" so I thought I will do something different.

I have just bought a used H1 and enjoying shooting landscape locally with

slides and scanned.

 

I am planning to go to Europe next month. Is the H1 too bulky for travelling?

I am interested in shooting people and architecture. Anyone with experience

using the H1 for travelling? Is it safe?

Thanks for the advice.

 

I have learn something about chromogenic B&W, which I was not aware.

 

It looks like scanning traditional B&W neg is not as easy as I had thought. It seems that there are two ways of doing it - greyscales or RGB, and I have received different opinions about it.

 

I like the look of darkroom prints, but do not have the time, and as usual, would like to defer it until I have more time, which may not happen!

 

I have seen some very nice B&W digital prints from conversion of either scanned slides or color flims. Perhaps that is the way to go?

I am planning to shoot medium format films and to print it digitally in an

Epson 2400 printer in B&W.

 

Is it better to shoot and scan color transparencies (and convert in Photoshop)

or B&W film , for a high quality B&W digital print?

 

I am thinking that the advantage of B&W negatives is that one could have the

option of printing in the darkroom later if required?

 

And...

 

If scanning B&W neg, is it better to do in in RGB or Greyscales?

 

Thanks for your advice...

 

Regards,

 

Ben

Thnaks for all the advice.

 

Would an Epson V700 flat bed scanner considered sufficient? or should I spend a little more on something like a Nikon scanner?

 

I understand what has been written about getting more shadow details with neg, but it has also been suggested that scanning a slides/chrome allows you to compare and achieve a more accurate color when printed, as you can see the color on the slides.

 

Thanks.

I have just bought a 500CM kit, and I am planning to print some B&W film, but

also to scan some shots into the computer for Photoshop processing and digital

printing. What is a good scan ? and would you get good results printing with

Epson printer. and... Is it better to scan transparencies (slides/chrome) or

color films?

 

Thanks

I have sold most of my equipment and planning to buy a 5D. I like to

get a pair of L lens for travelling and nature photography. I am

thinking of 24-105 and 100-400 (covering a good range) or 17-40 and

70-200 f2.8 IS (? better quality shots). There is not much

difference in the cost. Any thoughts?

I have read that there was a problem with this lens and it had to be

recall by Canon. However, I am not sure what the problem was, and

whether it has all been rectified. What do I need to check when I

get one of this lens to make sure that those with the problem are

still not been circulated in the market?

This is expected with the excessive cost of medium format. If the MF companies could reduced the price of the digital cameras by half they would sell a lot more cameras, especially to serious amateurs. As it is, it is beyond the reach of most people. How many rich professionals are there to buy these expensive cameras ?. Perhaps there was too much greed in the pricing....

Thanks for your reply. I don't have a plan to buy ProIID, I am still new to medium format and will play around with my newly acquired Pro S, which I have bought at a bargain with the three lenses. I was just curious to see whether I can use it on Pro II D in the future, should I decide to go digital with a medium format. Hopefully, by that time, in 2 to 3years, the digital back price would have come down to a reasonable level for amateur use. The lenses I have are remarkably good for their age, it would be good to use them in the digital age.

Just bought RB67ProS with 50mm, 90mm and 180mm used kit - can the

lenses be used on RZ67IID?

That's exactly what I will end up doing - using RB especially for B&W, and 20d for outdoor and color photography.

 

The digital backs are still too expensive, perhaps one day the price will come down to being more reasonable for amateur use.

 

Thanks for all the advice.

Can the RB67 take a digital back?? There are so many for sale at a

good price, it is a pity if it cannot be used for digital.

Thanks for the info. I have discovered a few useful threads as well. I am incline to go for the 150mm, as I will shooting portraits, and it is much cheaper.