jacob_napthine

Thank you very much for your help!

I'll go measure the lenses to see if one of them will work.

Cheers.

Hi there!

Could anyone please tell me the internal diameter (and width if

possible) of these collars?

What I need to know is (a big ask I know but I'd be very grateful):

A: internal diameter of the ring

B: width of the ring

C: clearance from the bottom of the ring opening to the face of the foot

I have searched the forums and the Canon USA site but came up empty.

I have also tried Canon Australia, but they seem unable to help. :(

These aren't even stocked in my state, so I can't actually measure

them either.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

PS No, I'm not going to use them for their recommended lenses. But you

wouldn't hold that against me would you? :)

G'day Chris!

I vote for (B). Get both, sounds like you've got a good price on the 300. IMO, having both doesn't mean you've got a redundant lens, rather you have quite a specialist lens (300f2.8). Use whichever is appropriate.

Cheers.

Jake

PS 'Golden Rule' = dumb! What a waste of potential knowlege.

G'day mate.

You'll hear this a lot...

Cancel your order with Abes. Buy from Adorama or B&H or KEH.

Didn't you learn when young that when you try to get the "super deal" it ALWAYS bites you in the ass? You think that the seller doesn't know the true value of what they sell? Sure they do.

Sorry man, but really, they saw you coming.

Tell the guy to shove his POS Sigma. Buy from somewhere good.

I live in Australia and have never had a problem with B&H. Adorama is about 95% as good.

Good luck mate.

Jake

PS Yes, you do need help. It's called bad punctuation!!!!!!!!!!!!!

: )

G'day Chris!

If is a choice between the two, I would say keep the 200f2.8.

The 300f2.8 is a great lens (I have the HS version), but it is not easily hand-held for very long. The size and weight difference between the two is more than the spec's would suggest.

I also have the HS version of the 200f2.8 and a 1.4X APO converter.

I would suggest you get the converter instead. I can't see a reduction in quality compared to the prime alone. Okay, you lose a stop but it's a great combination.

I've used this hand-held for motorcycle racing and aircraft (airshow).

As much as I love the 300, I honestly couldn't have shot for 7 hours (track) or 3 x 10 hour days (airshow) with it. If you want to use a good-sized tripod, for sure get the 300, it's awesome. So beautfiul it makes you want to buy them all. No, really. I mean it. :)

About the filters for the 300/400/600 APO lenses, despite what some may say, you can't use 3rd party filters. There aren't any that fit.

They are a unique diameter and thickness. You almost certainly know this though.

The polariser insert is not exactly a value for money item either.

It's nice (and beautifuly made) but unless you see one second-hand, it's grit-your-teeth costly. IMO, this comes into the equation.

I actually bought the polariser before I had a lens for it!

BTW, your websites are awesome. So well done. Learned heaps. Thank you, man. Do you make wbesites for a job?

Good luck mate.

Jake

PS What is this Golden Rule? You mean like 2 sections on photo.net?

Hi Mike!

Holy sh!t. That's your GF? You lucky bastard. :)

I'm not a pro photographer, so my comments are only worth what you paid for them :)

But, I'd get the 70-200mm and a Canon extension tube which will allow you to focus closer than the lens on its own. You might want to look at a 1.4X teleconverter if your budget allows.

I don't use Canon, but from all the info available, you won't find these L-series lacking in any way.

See if you can get your hands on a copy of Canon Lens Work III, The Eyes of EOS. It's a great book, even if you don't use Canon.

If you've got the money, go for it, man.

You've got a stunning model to work with and you can get on the infield. I gotta say, I envy you! A lot.

We don't really have cheerleaders down here in Australia. It's a shame, it really is.

Good luck mate.

PS Please post some of your shots on photo.net

OK, what about this...

Dynamic cropping. Full frame all the time, but if the sensor moves 1mm it cuts off 1mm of the frame. And so on. No switches, easy as.

But seriously, KM engineers are VERY good. What makes anyone think this is an insurmountable problem? They INVENTED Anti-shake once already!

Surely they can invent A.S. Mk2. Why is FF + AS not do-able?

Remember, chip-shift image stabilisation DIDN'T EXIST, what, 2.5 years ago? Now it comes in a pocket sized digi-cam costing less than a good lens.

Leicas (Panasonic + 50% co$t?) aspect ratio cropping sounds like a wank. Apart from saving on storage space, what good is it? Do you really need high speed burst mode in a digi-cam?

Really, first they're going broke (and need advice) now they can't improve something they invented?

You've seen these, right?

<a href="http://www.photo.net/equipment/medium-format/">Photo.net MF</a>

or this

<a href="http://www.camerahobby.com/Review-SQAi.html">SQAi review</a>

this is an oldy but a goody

<a href="http://www.medfmt.8k.com">Medium Format Megasite</a>

Keh have a good selection.<a href="http://www.keh.com">Click!</a>

G'day Mike!

He's got some fantastic models on that site, huh?

On his FAQ page there's an Ask Andy box, he seems like a straight up kind of bloke, I'm sure he'd answer you.

But, that is how he works, how do you work?

The shorter the focal length the closer you'd need to be. How comfortable are you getting that close vs longer tele = greater shooting distance.

Oh hang on, I just thought about the closeness thing...

Get a 14mm rectilinear :)

OK, from the other POV, how close does the model feel comfortable with?

What do you have already? Is what you've got no good?

Considering they are both not inexpensive lenses, what about hiring both for a session with your model, then judge by what you like best.

Maybe the model could give you feedback, too.

Good luck mate.

Jake

It will work with a film body.

Non 'D' flashes don't work with 7D etc.

The Minolta wireless flash system has been around for quite a while.

It's improved (kind of...) but not been wholesale changed.

Best bet may be to use the 3600HS D model as flash 2 & 3 as they'll work on your 7D.

Cheers mate.

Jake

What does the Dynax 9 + VC-9M handle like?

#*&%ing awesome! Fits perfectly in the hand.

It is fantasically well made. Put on an 85mm f1.4 G lens....

I love it.

Sorry, got a bit carried away. :)

PS Viewfinder image is very good too...

G'day Mark.

Have you thought about getting a fast prime lens? The 50mm f1.7RS is $80.00 US new. Definately worth getting as it effectively becomes a 75mm f1.7, which is awesome for portraits and great for most other subjects too. Best $80 you'll spend on photography, ever!

Look at the lens reviews on

<a href="http://www.dyxum.com">Dyxum.com</a>

Please don't buy a 28-200/300 lens. You could be very disapointed! You've got a great D-SLR, and it's obvious you want something good, that type of lens are a big compromise (ie try at everything, good at nothing).

If you're after a zoom lens, what about the KM 28-75 f2.8 (this and the Tamron version are very similar, but not identical AFAIK) at $410.00 US? I don't have one but said to be quite good.

I have the Minolta APO zoom (the non-D version), which I have only used with film, but got some good shots with it.

Good luck.

Thanks.

If I can get one at less than full retail, I'll give it a go.

Cheers

Yeah, found the one you mean when I searched the forum before posting.

Doesn't really answer my question though, I'm not that keen on a third party split-prism.

Thanks anyway.

Hi there!

Does anyone have any experience with replacement focus screens for

Maxxum/Dynax series bodies? Specifically Type-M or -ML?

I use only Minolta prime lenses.

The owners manual for the 9 states that the Type-M/-ML screens are for

f2.8 or faster, so no problems there.

Is there a downside to changing from the standard Type-G?

Any comments would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Hi Chris!

They will work no problems.

BTW, all Minolta AF lenses have had distance encoding since introduction. It's just not as accurate as the newer 'D' type, so it is not used in quite the same way by the internal processors.

Ever noticed that when you turn on an AF camera it will rack the focus back and forth, usually to the minimum limit?

This is to calibrate the distance encoding.

Buy the 5D! You know you want to.... :)

G'day Dan!

SPLURGE! C'mon, you know you should... :)

I think maybe you just got unlucky with your Maxxum 5, sorry to say.

Doubtful if you'd have the same kind of problems again, I reckon.

I still have a Maxxum 400si that I bought over 10 years ago, still works fine too.

IMHO, treat yourself to a Maxxum 5D!

Have you been to <a href="www.dyxum.com">Dyxum.com<a/>?

Plenty of good people over there if you want to know anything about the M5D. Sorry, but I can't really tell you anything,except anti-shake is awesome, as I have the 7D.

Hope you enjoy your new toy whatever you choose.

Cheers, Jake

Hi Robert.

Yes, the anti-shake works well with panning.

A couple of months ago I was at a private track day with a mate's motorcycle club. I was mostly on the infield, often within feet of the of the track edges. So the closer shots, the panning speed was quite fast (for me anyway).

I took around 1000 shots with my 7D, almost all using a 200/2.8 APO HS G with a 1.4x teleconverter. Some with a polarizing filter. All shots were hand-held.

I used a mix of apperture and shutter priority. As long as the autofocus got it right, 99% were sharp (shake free).

I deleted a couple hundred shots because of poor framing etc.

I have also tried panning at cars & bikes along the Great Ocean Road.

Considering that this was my first attempt a shooting bike racing (so it wasn't really skill on my part!),I would say, yeah, the AS is great.

The 7D is a fantastic camera in my opinion.

Buy it! You wont regret it.

Though, in all honesty, the autofocus could be faster.

PS I found that, for me, AS also works for panning at airshows too.

Best of luck!

Jacob

Hi Karina!

I lurk here, but have been looking for basically the same thing as yourself. So here goes...

Try asking at a web site called www.passionforpixels.com

Also, www.photocreative.com.au has a wedding course in Melb on 3rd October.

Hope this is of some use to you. Best of luck.

If I can find more, would you like me to post them in this thread?

(Is that OK, moderator?)

Jacob

Awww, man. Missed out. I love buying Minolta stuff.

By the way, does anyone know for sure how many were made?

Minolta manual for 9ti says 1000, but I've seen reviews for the 9ti saying 2000 made?

Were any made with the a-9 (alpha 9) badge?

Were there any titanium VC-9 grips made?

Is there a Minolta Compendium (you know, like the Nikon one)?

I've got a regular 9 on the way to me, but I'm sure it would be happier with a friend...

Oh yeah, you blokes, try to be nice to each other, . ;D

Hi Laurence!

I don't know if this is any use to you, but there is a Magic Lantern guide for the 7D. I have just ordered one from Amazon, hopefully as the cameras share many features there will be some usefull info for the 7.

When it arrives i'll let you know.

Cheers!

Jacob

Frank, my apologies if I offended you. Your point certainly makes sense. Again, I wasn't trying to diminish you opinion in any way, but personally I don't see film as outdated. Neither do you I guess, as you have some excellent photos in your bio. BTW, nothing wrong with manual focus, plenty of the best optics in the world use it.

I actually bought into MF after I got my D7D.

You are correct, digital is certainly taking over from analogue in many areas. Mostly for the better too. But, analogue technology (film in this case) still works well, sometimes better than digital.

I agree with you that Paul might want to look at a DSLR if he wants to spend that much. If not, there are many good DZLRs available.

OTOH though, a less expensive film body would take advantage of the lenses Paul already has and deliver excellent results.

Maybe this is an option for Paul to consider if he can wait for a less expensive DSLR to come out?

Hi Paul! I reckon if you're after a new film camera, the Minolta Maxxum/Dynax 7 is awesome. If you can get one, you wont be disappointed! But I think the equal to the 600 might be the 70?

I started with a Maxxum 400si, and now have the 7 and the 7 digital and a growing collection of Minolta prime lenses, flashes, etc.

To me, they are great, not perfect, but I wouldn't hesitate to buy them all again.

IMHO, all of the major companies make excellent gear (well, if you're prepared to pay for it! :) ), not just C**** & N****.

Frank, could you please explain why you feel that the Dynax 7 is obsolete? From reading your bio, it doesn't seem to be because it's film. Not trying to pick a fight, but it seems to be a strange thing to say...

I second (third? :) ) the recommendation for this book, it's fantastic. Trully awesome photography. As a rank beginner of macro work, I found this to be an excellent guide. One of the best photography books (on any subect) I have seen.

9/10